scutter
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 07:10 AM |
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Tunnel access
Morning all,
I'm planning on making the tunnel on my new build out of sheet metal.
Does anyone have any ideas or pitures on how to make the access panels for the gear lever and handbrake?
Also what structures will need to be included apart from a support for said handbrake?
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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RazMan
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 07:27 AM |
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My central tunnel is made of 20mm box and the removable panels are held on with M4 rivnuts. Put a little sponge rubber tape under the panels to stop
them rattling.
hth
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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worX
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 07:48 AM |
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I would look at making the whole tunnel removable (if it's possible) rather than just access panels if I were you...
Steve
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Agriv8
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 08:03 AM |
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MNR's have a one peice GRP tunnel.
makes it nice and easy to remove for check diff bolts ( grease the sliding prop joints ect ).
regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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procomp
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 08:12 AM |
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Hi correct me if i am wrong but is the original post talking about making the whole tunnel out of sheet as a structure rather than simply adding
pannels to a frame.
Just wondering if i read it right. It has been done this way but cant think which kitcar it was.
cheers matt
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MikeR
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 08:41 AM |
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Isn't it similar to what caterham do?
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Ivan
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 08:55 AM |
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I also made my tunnel as a structural whole - initially it is very floppy with very little apparent strength but once welded in place is rock solid -
to get to your question:
I cut out the necessary access holes (one for general access to gearbox and to help sliding in the prop shaft, the other for the gear lever) when the
tunnel was tacked in place with gearbox and prop shaft installed, then removed it and welded in 25 X 2mm strips to act as an inside frame drilled for
rivnuts. The cover sits in the frame where it's an access hole and the gearl lever glove will be bolted to the frame with a suitable polished
cover piece.
If I find I need any other access I will just cut it out and weld it back when finished.
[Edited on 27/9/07 by Ivan]
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02GF74
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 10:03 AM |
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^^^ wot ivan says.
also you may want to put some supports on the inside of the tunnel to hang loom, brake and fuel lines - these would need to be fitted from below,
assuming to plan to run them in the tunnel.
funnily enouygh, I was thinking about this and rckon that if you know whaqt you are dong, you could make it lighter and as stiff as with square tubes
and cover panels.
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scutter
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 10:13 AM |
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Matt, you're correct, the mods are listed as parts of cymtriks analysis and are suppose to help with chassis stiffness, but doesn't
cutting a couple of holes in the sheet tunnel induce some weakness?
Now the choice is either square or rounded top and weldin or boltin?
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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Ivan
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 10:27 AM |
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I chose the tunnel system based on Cymtrik's paper and welded it in because it's the lightest and strongest option.
If I could have worked out how to use Turbocad properly I would have drawn it out in cad and then unfolded it all and got it cut and folded by
profesionals which would have been a whole lot neater and easier in the long run.
I really don't forsee the need to ever remove it once installed as it's easy to remove the engine compared to a tintop if ever you need to
work on the gearbox.
And finally - as long as you properly frame the holes they dont weaken the structure significantly.
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caber
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 10:46 AM |
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If holes are in the centre of the panel they don't cgange the structure much, the sheet is basically triangulating so keep holes away from
corners and you will be OK.
I am about to have to strip all my panelling off due to problems with propshaft and speedo censor 
Caber
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Alex B
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 04:40 PM |
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Is prop hitting panels? If I have to strip mine off it will be with Plasma Cutter I have access top and bottom as I thought it would be enough.
Alex
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zilspeed
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 04:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
MNR's have a one peice GRP tunnel.
makes it nice and easy to remove for check diff bolts ( grease the sliding prop joints ect ).
regards
Agriv8
As does Ye Olde Sylva 
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scutter
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 05:15 PM |
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Looks like bolt in wins
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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mojojeff
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| posted on 4/12/07 at 11:11 PM |
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Sheet metal tunnel
Try McSorley he did CAD drawings + stress test, ended up lighter and stiffer. (was a while back tho'
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scutter
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| posted on 4/12/07 at 11:33 PM |
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Cheers Jeff, but i bottled it and made it out of 19mm round instead.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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