Max
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| posted on 18/6/02 at 02:29 PM |
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More RV8 questions
Hi everyone, sorry if I’m going over old ground but I’ve got a couple of queries regarding fitting a RV8 to a Locost….
I’m a BIG fan of the Rover SD1 Vitesse (I’ve got 5 to date inc. a 300bhp+ monster), as such I’ve built up a selection of spares including a modded
250bhp fuel injected V8 – I feel this deserves a loving home and currently all my engine bays are full. So what better solution than to build a car
around the engine….
From what I’ve read, a McSorley 442 chassis will provide room for the V8, is this the case? Will it require further modification? (I anticipate the
plenum top poking through the bonnet in a style reminiscent of another manufacturer that will remain nameless)
I’d like to use a LSD axle from a Capri 2.8 special as I would imagine it’ll provide the best way to put the power down and would possibly be a better
fit in the wider chassis. Are there any problems associated with this to look out for? If the axle is wider than the plans in the book how do I keep
the width between the wheels (the track) the same at the front and back? (Assuming it’s the same in the original chassis design – I don’t know)
And help and advice would be gratefully received… 
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Liam
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| posted on 18/6/02 at 03:49 PM |
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You'll need to make some wider wishbones...
Or you could just have a narrower front track - I've seen w***fields with very different front and rear tracks.
Liam
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 18/6/02 at 05:03 PM |
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There was a Rover V8 power'd locost at the last yorks meeting, don't know the owner, 1st time i'd met him, but it was all home built, worth a look
if your local.....any Yorks lads help out here ? 
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interestedparty
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| posted on 18/6/02 at 05:41 PM |
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quote:
From what I’ve read, a McSorley 442 chassis will provide room for the V8, is this the case? Will it require further modification?
I am currently building a McSorley 442 chassis around a Rover V8 and 5speed box. It certainly goes in, what I am doing at the moment is working out
how I will remove the engine as and when. It looks like the best method will be to seperate it from the gearbox and then lift straight up. This
decision needs to be made before deciding on exact engine location and mounting arrangements. I had wanted to make a removable subframe so that I
could lift car off engine and box (this is what I do with my TR7V8),but that means losing the chassis reinforcement at the bottom of the engine
bay.
I'd like to find out what alternator and bracked arrangement a certain manufacturer uses in their demonstrator, it's higher and closer to the middle
of the engine than the SD1 unit. Definitely necessary
John
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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MikeR
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| posted on 18/6/02 at 10:18 PM |
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If your using the Capri LSD you will need to make the following mod to the standard chassis tunnel, i'm not sure if you have to make it on the 442
chassis.
Basically the Capri LSD is a salisbury diff. This is wider / more offset than the escort Timiken diff. What i've done to make it fit is to build the
chassis as standard but .....
when it comes to the two verticals at the end of the transmission tunnel next to the diff i've moved them towards the outside of the car 3/4 inch.
What this means is you've 3/4 inch more space either side and instead of panneling to the outside edge of the vertical you now pannel to the inside
edge.
if this makes no sense send me an email and i'll take a picture - i'm a little 'lubricated' with a amber coloured substance!
regards,
Mike
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Max
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| posted on 19/6/02 at 08:21 AM |
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quote:
I am currently building a McSorley 442 chassis around a Rover V8 and 5speed box. It certainly goes in
John,
I read in one of the earlier discussions that you’re using a previous version of the McSorley chassis that’s wider at the front, how much wider is it
and is this necessary? Do you think that I’d be okay with the ‘standard’ 442 chassis?
You’re absolutely right about the alternator, when I’ve built V8’s for friends single seaters and ‘Can-Am’ racers I use a much smaller one and mount
it in line with the rocker cover, otherwise it protrudes too much.
Mike,
Photo’s would be a big help, e-mail on the way to you now…
Cheers,
Max
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interestedparty
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| posted on 19/6/02 at 10:18 AM |
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Max, I couldn't say if it was actually necessary to use the previous, slightly wider McSorley 442, but it seemed like a good idea. Too much space got
to be better than too little. There may be a problem obtaining a suitable nosecone, although I know that Lolocost do one 2" wider and another 3"
wider, so should be ok. Why not email Jim and ask him to send you a file of the previous version, and then you can compare them.
Also, Max, could you provide a bit more detail about which alternator and brackets you use?
John
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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Max
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| posted on 19/6/02 at 11:15 AM |
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John,
I generally use the smallest alternator I can get away with, after all the cars don’t require the same sort of electrical power as ‘normal’ road cars.
Typically something like a Metro alternator is more than man enough and the pulleys are about the right size. Mounting it is quite easy; find a bolt
long enough to run through the two mounting lugs on the alternator with about an inch to spare. (It needs to have the same thread as the mounting
holes for the lifting brackets on the head). Fix it into the most suitable mounting hole for your application (you may need to remove the lift
bracket), and then use washers to pack out the bolt length so that the pulley lines up with the main crank take off. Then just use a strip of steel
with a hole at one end and an elongated hole at the other and use it as a tensioner. Fix one end to a suitable timing cover bolt and then use the
elongated hole as a fixing for the third lug on the alternator.
Hope this is of some use. I’ll be investing in a digital camera fairly soon, if you need some piccys let me know and I’ll send some as soon as I
can.
Max
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interestedparty
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| posted on 19/6/02 at 01:01 PM |
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Thanks for that info, Max, it made sense as soon as I read it. Let me know if you (or anyone else)need any pics of engine and box sitting in the
442
Gotta start making engine mountings next, decision time!
John
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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Max
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| posted on 19/6/02 at 03:29 PM |
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quote:
Then just use a strip of steel with a hole at one end and an elongated hole at the other and use it as a tensioner. Fix one end to a suitable
timing cover bolt and then use the elongated hole as a fixing for the third lug on the alternator.
PS I forgot to mention to fix the end with the elongated hole to the alternator as you'll never get the timing cover bolt tight enogh to stop it
slipping. (They are VERY prone to snapping in the block). It doesn't look as neat this way but it could save you a whole heap of trouble....
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HoopyFrood
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 posted on 18/7/02 at 08:27 PM |
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Ummmm can I be dum and ask what a McSorley 442 chassis is, and whether there are designs for this chassis ?!?
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Alan B
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| posted on 18/7/02 at 08:51 PM |
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My friend Jim McSorley who lives just down the road (OK 60 miles away really) has re-done the frame drawings in several versions.
Check out:
http://www.mcsorley.net/locost/
The 442 is one of the stretched versions.
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john_s
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| posted on 19/7/02 at 11:58 AM |
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quote:
My friend Jim McSorley who lives just down the road (OK 60 miles away really) has re-done the frame drawings in several versions.
60 miles is just down the road for across the pond isn't it?
John.
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