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Author: Subject: Floor to chassis "sealant"?
eznfrank

posted on 6/3/08 at 09:09 AM Reply With Quote
Floor to chassis "sealant"?

I have 136 rivets ready to close up my floor onto my chassis and according to the MK build manual i just need to use body sealant. I notice from other build sites that people have used PU adhesive etc (which by the way seems as easy to but as a nuke missile????) and I'm trying to figure out if that's actually neccesary. Is it just literally to keep the water out or is it structural in any way?

[Edited on 6/3/08 by eznfrank]

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speedyxjs

posted on 6/3/08 at 09:32 AM Reply With Quote
I think keep the water out and stop vibrations.





How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?

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Paul TigerB6

posted on 6/3/08 at 09:54 AM Reply With Quote
I tend to use Sikaflex myself which acts as a sealant, adhesive, reducing rattles etc.
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Hammerhead

posted on 6/3/08 at 10:09 AM Reply With Quote
I just used builders sealant about £1.99 a tube. Stays quite soft, and was recommended by an auto factors bloke.






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Guinness

posted on 6/3/08 at 10:10 AM Reply With Quote
I couldn't get hold of any silkaflex the weekend I wanted to rivet my floor on.

So I used this stuff from Screwfix.




Don't know if it's that stuff that is holding the floor on, or the rivets, or the bolts through the floor for the seats, or the return lip on the bodywork, or the extra layer of silkaflex and the extra number of rivets holding the side panels on that keeps my feet off the floor, but something is!

BTW, I got my silkaflex from Mac#1. Phoned them up on a Thursday afternoon, arrived at mine on Friday morning! They use Wurth Bond & Seal or something equivalent.

HTH

Mike






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AdamR

posted on 6/3/08 at 10:17 AM Reply With Quote
As I understand it, the Sikaflex that a lot of people use is just expensive PU adhesive. You can get the same stuff much cheaper from Decorating Direct - linky.

It definitely provides structural benefits. Theoretically you could do away with the rivets, but I don't know of anyone being brave enough to try this!

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iank

posted on 6/3/08 at 10:38 AM Reply With Quote
The problem with using PU only (plus a few rivets in the corners to prevent it peeling) is that you need to glue metal to metal, otherwise the bond is only as strong as the paint or powdercoat bond to the steel.





--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous

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caber

posted on 6/3/08 at 10:47 AM Reply With Quote
I used the stuff from decorating direct for all rivited panels. Apart from the adhesive issue it provides a good insulation between ally and steel, if you do not do this you will get electrolytic corrosion of the ally which will eventually fall off!

I ran out recently and used some black gutter sealant for non structural areas that I got from a £1 shop it is more resiliant than silicone and sticks much better to both paint and raw ally, be careful as some of this stuff is non setting, that would not be good!

Caber

PS Tiger Seal is PU and is stocked by most automotive paint supliers

[Edited on 3/6/2008 by caber]

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dhutch

posted on 6/3/08 at 01:02 PM Reply With Quote
They used sealent etc on trailers a lot. and we use it on jcb's to.
- As you say, i think its to stop rattling/vibrating and chafing/movment between parts. With the bolts/rivets actually being the structural strenth.
- Although at the same time, be stoping the movment/sliding between the frame and pannel you proberbly are marginal stiffening the thing.

Sikiflex is indeed just a brand name polyurethene based sealent/adheasive.
- They do a line of diffrent pu based products for sealing/sticking varous things and are considered to be oneof the best.
- However all things considered, any cheap pu is proberbly fine for just going between frame and pannels.



Daniel

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DaveFJ

posted on 6/3/08 at 01:59 PM Reply With Quote
Just DON'T use silicone sealant.... It's nothing but rust in a tube!





Dave

"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always

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