smart51
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 10:31 AM |
|
|
chassis paint
My chassis paint is peeling. I degreased the chassis with marine clean, treated with metal ready then painted with POR-15. It was nice. In several
places the paint has bubbled and when pushed it is obvously not connected to the metal. I'll have to strip it back and repaint.
Should I use the remaining small tin of POR-15 or should I try something else?
recomendations please.
|
|
|
|
|
Davey D
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 10:41 AM |
|
|
Is your car definately painted, and not powder coated?
|
|
|
chrsgrain
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 10:44 AM |
|
|
Hmm, that's good to know as I thought that POR15 was the dogs danglies.... might be worth contacting them for advice...
Chris
Spoing! - the sound of an irony meter breaking...
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 10:47 AM |
|
|
Ah see that’s what happens when you do things properly and then the paint all falls off
now had it been accidentally over sprayed , a nuke wouldn't budge it 
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
Howlor
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 10:58 AM |
|
|
Overspray is the best way to paint anything. It get everywhere, always sticks even with no preperation and never seems to run! 
My chassis also peeled a little but I found that just a cellulose painted straight on to the metal seemed to adhere much better.
Steve
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 10:59 AM |
|
|
I've used POR-15, marine clean and metal ready on my chassis.
The only problems with bubbling I've seen have been when painting over old paint (donor parts) where I've sometimes seen a really obvious
reaction at the time of painting.
One thing in the instruction small print is a claim that a single drop of sweat will spoil the adhesion of the paint - not sure if that could have
happened to you. Personally I'd have a chat with Frosts (assume you got it there) and see what they say.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 11:56 AM |
|
|
Tractor Chassis Black Paint from your local Agricultural Merchant.
Its black, and suitable for painting with a Yard Broom in the hands of a Farmer.
Its also Pig Piss proof.
Worked well for me on my LandRover.
Cant remember the name of it. got if off someone on a Landy Forum.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
Mr Whippy
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 12:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by iank
One thing in the instruction small print is a claim that a single drop of sweat will spoil the adhesion of the paint - not sure if that could have
happened to you.
I now wear latex gloves when handling any parts for painting, learnt the hard way.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 12:16 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by iank
One thing in the instruction small print is a claim that a single drop of sweat will spoil the adhesion of the paint - not sure if that could have
happened to you.
I now wear latex gloves when handling any parts for painting, learnt the hard way.
I always use gloves (prefer vinyl myself) when painting POR-15. Learn't the hard way that it takes 3 days to come off skin.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
Bluemoon
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 12:36 PM |
|
|
I used an etch primer (UPOL acid #8) realy good, just d-greased first, i.e. detergent, rinse/towel dry to stop flash rust. Then cellulose thinners
wipe one with one rage then clean wipe off with a clean on.. then etch primer.. The primer has stuck well, and when I have managed to chip it (droping
spaners/drill etc) most chips don't get though the primer... the surface is matt underneath, i.e. the chassis is etched to provide a good primer
key.
Like all painting preparation is key, i expect there was a surface film on the metal if you have adhesion problems?
The only snag is the acid #8 might react with you existing paint if you want to touch up what is existing.
Cheers
Dan
[Edited on 20/5/08 by Bluemoon]
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 01:04 PM |
|
|
i didn't read all the replies, so may be covering old ground... I've never heard of metal ready (may have got the name wrong and i
don't know what it is  ) but what primer did you use? was it etch primer?
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 01:52 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
I've never heard of metal ready (may have got the name wrong and i don't know what it is ) but what primer did you use? was it etch
primer?
metal ready is a solution that treats rust and coats the metal in zinc phosphate. You paint POR-15 straight onto that.
I've painted small parts with it after soaking in degreaser and wiping and the POR peels off in nice sheets.
|
|
|
iank
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 02:12 PM |
|
|
POR-15 is a primer, and changes colour in UV.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
|
|
|
smart51
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 02:38 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by iank
POR-15 is a primer, and changes colour in UV.
Non of my chassis will be exposed to sunlight (unless I roll it). You don't have to overcoat it unless you are worried about the colour change.
|
|
|
wicket
|
| posted on 20/5/08 at 03:18 PM |
|
|
I degreased the engine and gearbox and then treated with metal ready before painting with POR-15.
It's nearly 6 years ago now and it still looks OK, no obvious signs of it coming off anywhere.
|
|
|
