RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 02:02 AM |
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scuttle too narrow
My scuttle looks really dumb as forward as it needs to be to fit the chassis width (book width). So when I move it back it looks great, except now it
has at least 1 - 2 cm of upper rail showing, including the rivets.
I have given myself another headache trying to figure out what to do:
1. order another one - can't get them here in North America, therefore a last resort to try and get somebody to ship from overseas at a
reasonable price (although I also need an exterior rear panel)
2. Make one - not up to it, I wouldn't do a good enough job
3. somehow widen the edges by stretching the fibreglass - this involves cutting around all the corners to make it flexible - have to cut
carefully!!
4. do a Leepu, and fill in the side with bondo to come even with the sides of the car
What do people think?
thanks again, as always..
Rich
[Edited on 13/7/08 by RK]
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 02:35 AM |
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Kinetic Vehicles in the US has an adjustable scuttle:
http://kineticvehicles.com/superscuttle.html
Without widening, does your scuttle sit forward of the kink between J and N tubes? What kind is it? If it's a standard brand, you ought to be
able to resell it. I'd try the classifieds at http://www.locostusa.com/forums/.
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 02:40 AM |
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It's one of Jack's. I can't imagine anybody wanting one with holes already cut for the instruments. I can add you to my Picasaweb if
you want to look at my build (although the spacing issue I'm referring to is not photographed).
His descriptions are for those a lot more capable than I am. I have trouble understanding them. I've also tried fibreglassing before with
nothing but ill effects - it wouldn't harden, basically made a mess, and frankly, made me sick for a week afterwards (even with a mask).
[Edited on 13/7/08 by RK]
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 03:10 AM |
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You must have one of the tall scuttles, then. How come it doesn't fit? Did you cut it down? If it was out of spec, I'd take it up with
Jack. Maybe he'd be willing to trade towards an adjustable one.
The dash holes don't mean much. A buyer could cut the dash out and make their own from aluminum or whatever.
Not really interested for myself, thanks. I will need a wider one, may make my own out of aluminum.
Edit: Sure, I'd like to see your build, thanks.
[Edited on 13/7/08 by pbura]
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 03:20 AM |
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whats your email and I'll add you.
It is a higher one, needed for engine clearance. I think the thing would be fine if mounted a bit further forward, but a. I need to block off the
passenger compartment from the engine area, and I have reservoirs in the way with it forward and b. it looks bad IMHO
I also have a plate mounted and sikaflexed to the front (with a great big area cut out for the reservoir clearance, until I realised it would be
better to mount it all rearward). Nobody will want that, although I suppose they could bolt on another panel on top and nobody would notice. I was
going to put DEI Heat Shield over it anyways.
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 03:35 AM |
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My e-mail's in the buttons below my posts.
Yeah, the panel on the engine side can be cut out, too. Look at what Jack's making now, no panels on either side.
Just checked my book, and if your scuttle is not 42" wide at the back, it's not right.
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 03:39 AM |
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It isn't. But I doubt I can send it back. it was a big hassle going to NY to get it too; customs, gas, time off etc. These things are just not
available in Canada.
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 04:08 AM |
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Just looked at your photos, and can see how the scuttle is too narrow by slightly over 1 cm. I'd do the Leepu (hahaha) myself and fill it. No
one will ever notice.
The car's looking good, btw, and like you're very close to finishing. Congratulations!
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 04:14 AM |
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Thank you!
Actually once the scuttle and nose are mounted I start on electrics. I have a prewired and labelled loom and all the fuses are mounted. The engine
runs, the brake lines are done, and I only need to make or get an exterior back panel. All these things have a problem though, and sometimes things
are slow. Plumbing the cooling system was a big pain in the hands and arms trying to get hoses to fit over connectors and onto the engine. Today
though I managed to mount a rad overflow tank onto the rad mounting bracket at the front. Once I thought about the other stuff, I gave up and went
golfing.
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 04:45 AM |
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Truly, the only tough job left is the rear panel. Can you apply your vinyl after installing the panel? That is what I would try because of the
beating involved. I'd also consider painting and using vinyl for the stripes only. Life is short. 
There are plenty of examples of rear panel installs here. Using 3003 and cutting away material from the inside corners so it doesn't bunch up
seems to be the key.
Good luck!
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 04:49 AM |
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The problem is that I don't have an upper bar that goes around to mould the ally to. I may have to put one of those on first, if I don't
find a GRP one.
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 05:28 AM |
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Sorry I missed that before. How about Deman?
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 02:41 PM |
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Deman doesn't exist anymore. British American Motorsports in Lachine, Quebec bought Dan out. They are good guys and have helped me every step of
the way. They even helped me sell an engine I didn't use.
It is difficult in NA to do it, mostly due to a complete lack of donors: Miatas cost a lot, the Sierra doesn't exist, etc. The Locostusa site is
full of engineering types reinventing the wheel, and the USA7's are basically those buying fully built 7's. We don't have any real
network at all in Canada. This site has helped me enormously, but most British guys are building from real kits and the welder/provider is just down
the road compared to here.
If I had to do it again (and I am not sure I would) I would go Westfield and get a complete kit, including MX5 donor, that cost big $$ but less
problems. Flyin' Miata (Keith Tanner et al) are nice guys too. I bought a diff and rear axles from them.
By the way, I am up to $28,000 right now, and I still need a few things. Stalker is a lot less than that!!
And for god's sake, don't ask my opinion; I have one for everything!! It's the English part of my family I guess.
[Edited on 13/7/08 by RK]
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pbura
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| posted on 13/7/08 at 04:31 PM |
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Ouch at the $28k.  Thankfully, you are close to finishing. It seems that you are sort of burnt out at this time but, really, you are in the home
stretch.
I agree with you that building a Locost from scratch in NA is a tough proposition, especially before the recent spate of Miata-based builds that have
made a pathway for non-engineering types. I'm sort of in the middle skills-wise. I have a particular kind of car in mind but know I
don't have the money to bring it off, so I wait. Building a kit won't satisfy the itch.
Pete
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RK
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| posted on 14/7/08 at 02:10 AM |
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At this point, I don't care about the $, and I don't think I could have done it for less, minus the useless donor I bought and the $2000
or so I put into that.
Some of these, even in the UK cost a lot more than I've spent if people counted correctly, but most I suspect are too embarrassed and
don't want the other half knowing...
You could get a flat pack frame and go from there, but decide first what sort of rear suspension you want. I highly doubt any kits from on here,
except a very few, involve bolting together a puzzle. They will all need some sort of fiddling and modifying at some point that would keep you busy if
that's what you want. Mine has just taken a lot more because it never really was a kit - EVERYTHING has been changed at some point (even the
springs and the seats, if you can believe it).
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pbura
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| posted on 15/7/08 at 12:22 PM |
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Today I learned that Luego is selling kits and parts in Canada, and sent you a link to Haler Concepts' price list. Expensive, but Luego has a
great reputation for quality. I hope this will help you finish up.
Pete
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