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Author: Subject: Throttle Travel
livelee

posted on 13/8/08 at 12:31 PM Reply With Quote
Throttle Travel

Not sure if this should be in here or the engine section.

Anyway. I have a Mac#1 ZR with a Zetec Engine. It's running 45 throttle bodies.

The throttle travel is far too long and the pivot point is already as wide as can be. Does anybody have any suggestions of how to shorten the throw?

Thanks

Dan

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ash_hammond

posted on 13/8/08 at 12:44 PM Reply With Quote
Hey.....

Wooden blocks on the pedals work a treat . You could alway replace the throttle with a micro switch with 3mm travel ON-OFF-ON-OFF drivin style .

I run a ZR as well and personally like the travel, its nice to the able to vary the throttle round corners once you get used it you will be fine. Another excuse to go for a drive.







.: www.mac1motorsports.co.uk | www.m1moc.com :.

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livelee

posted on 13/8/08 at 01:07 PM Reply With Quote
My legs are long enough. I like to be able to use my ankle to apply the throttle rather than having to extend my leg.

I guess it's normal then?

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multanen

posted on 13/8/08 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
Slightly OT:
Schumacher had very long throttle pedal travel in his Ferrari F1 car. Barrichello used short pedal travel instead.
Wich one you wan't to copy?

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livelee

posted on 13/8/08 at 01:33 PM Reply With Quote

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livelee

posted on 13/8/08 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
Barrichello it is.

I need a much shorter pedal. When driving I like to rotate my foot on my heel to flick between brake and throttle. With my throttle fully down I lave to lift and bend my whole leg back in order to press the brake down.

Surely is is not normal? However I can't see any way to improve it.

I will measure the length of the travel and take some photos to show how bad it is.

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DarrenW

posted on 15/8/08 at 08:56 AM Reply With Quote
Can you move the position where the cable connects to the pedal in relation to the pivot point?

The throttle bodies will dictate how much movement you need to get full power but i think proximity to pivot point alters the pedal movement a bit. Maybe not by a lot but might help.

When changing it you dont really want to be pulling excessively against the cable on full throttle. There is a tendancy when you want to go that bit faster to push harder on pedal, this can cause cable to snap eventually. Careful use of pedal stop prevent overstressing the cable.






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livelee

posted on 25/8/08 at 02:26 PM Reply With Quote
Still not resolved. We are going to need to make a new pedal I feel.

There is 7" of travel to pull the cable 2".

Anybody care to measure theirs. I think somewhere around 4"/5" pedal travel would be much better.

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Mix

posted on 25/8/08 at 03:11 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

In addition to altering the throttle pedal you could also consider reducing the length of the lever at the throttle body or fitting an idler linkage to give the required advantage.

Regards Mick

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C10CoryM

posted on 26/8/08 at 03:21 AM Reply With Quote
I think your choices are: re-make the throttle pedal, or add another pivot with a ratio in the middle somewhere.

Not much else to be done I think.





"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"

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DarrenW

posted on 27/8/08 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
I very much doubt you need a new pedal.

The pivot point will be near the bottom, bit you push with foot at the top. below the pivot point is where the cable attaches. If the cable attachment point is very close to pivot you will have long foot movements to move the cable a short way, however if you reposition the attachment point further away (lower down) the cable pull will be greater.

Do some sketches and you may be able to calculate what ratio you need and where the new hole needs to be drilled for the cable. Draw the pedal to scale on paper. Assume first position is throttle off. Then draw a new pedal over the top in the fully forward position. You should then be able to measure what cable pulls you can achieve by moving the attachment point. You can even get fancy by cutting 2 pedal drawings out and attach them at the pivot point so you can work out where you need the cable to be.






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livelee

posted on 27/8/08 at 03:05 PM Reply With Quote
That is all correct. However the pivot point is at the highest point on the pedal and the cable is attached at the lowest point on the pedal. The only adjustment I have would increase throttle travel, not decrease it.
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DarrenW

posted on 27/8/08 at 03:24 PM Reply With Quote
Oh i see you problem. Ill have to take a better look at my pedal later.

Do you have an option of changing the ratio at the throttle body end?






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livelee

posted on 1/9/08 at 08:25 PM Reply With Quote
Peddals:


No room below for lower cable attachment:


Off:


On:


Look at the actual peddal, it moves 7" front to back and the peddal is nearly pointing up 90 degrees at full throttle.

TB wide open:

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DarrenW

posted on 5/9/08 at 08:16 AM Reply With Quote
Sorry for late reply.

From your pics your pedals are same as mine (no surprise there i guess).

Without re-engineering your pedal i guess your options are either to get used to it or change the throttle body end. From memory your car has nice set of jenveys. Have you tried looking at Jenvey catalogues to see if there is anything available that could change the length of travel needed.

Is there any way the position that the cable attaches to the TB's can be moved closer to the pivot point? Even if its just modelled up for a static trial to test the theory?

I probs dont have the issue as im running bike carbs that only need a short pull.






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livelee

posted on 5/9/08 at 08:27 AM Reply With Quote
Does your foot not slip off the peddal at full throttle? Look at the actual peddal when pressed all the way down, it's nearly at 45 degrees from it's starting angle.

I'm going to remove the peddals and bend / shape / cut / weld to get them spot on.

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DarrenW

posted on 12/9/08 at 08:18 AM Reply With Quote
To be totally honest when buildiing the car i thought it wouldnt be right but after being on the road for a while i never give it a second thought now.

No harm in modifying it to suit you better. Shouldnt be too hard to do either. Give some thought to where you want the pedal to be in relation to the others. Left foot braking and all that. Might also be worth fitting some adjustable stop arrangement too while you are on. Its worth stopping the pedal just before excessive strain is applied to the cable, ive had one snap before.






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