I am thinking about fitting a full cage to my Indy R1. Question is can it be done fairly easily on a completed car or is it going to involve welding etc?
I believe you can opt to bolt it in, but even then you would need the relevant plates welded onto the chassis to bolt the cage to.
I considered fitting rear stays and a cross brace to the single roll hoop on my Indy, but couldn't face the aggro of stripping the rear end off
the car to do it.
I would liek to know too, and also if there is an alternative to the A bars coming into the cabin as they will block my knees between the wheel.
Im very tall!
quote:
Originally posted by Kriss
I would liek to know too, and also if there is an alternative to the A bars coming into the cabin as they will block my knees between the wheel.
Im very tall!
Not sure about he integity of that in a smash? Cage is only as strong as its weakest link..... Anne
.........Neil
^^ true, but you are still going to attach it to a peace of 25mm box, the bolts (so long as they are sized correctly) will not go first cross sections
is probably larger than the boxes.
Getting the design good enough is key, and this is something caged know about and I don't.. i.e. you need to spread the loads into the space
frame "correctly".
The cage design is using the chassis as part of cage if you like (the bottom half). No idea if the caged design is good or not but they are supposed
to be experts at it, and have a lot more experience of roll cages than MK.
Cheers
Dan
[Edited on 8/1/10 by Bluemoon]
[Edited on 8/1/10 by Bluemoon]
^^^ accepted. But if the car rolls the downward force on the top chassis rails will be lateral not in compression whereas if your cage goes to the
floor the force pushes down the leg of the cage in compression and that means less deformity of the whole structure.
An example if the Chassis rail deforms 4" in a rollover chash that means the top of the rollcage will deform 4" I don't think the top
of my head is much more then 4" from the underside of the cage top bar.?!
........Neil
[Edited on 8/1/10 by Nash]
^^ Good point I guess this is why the other caged cages pick up further forwards of the windscreen (i.e. where there is a cross member running from
each side of the car. Snag is you can't do this if you want weather gear..
I think caged have got around this to some extent by having a diagonal tube across the top of the cage, thus any longitudinal forces are transferred
to the back hoop...
Also the bolt position is directly above a vertical tube down to the bottom of the chassis. So with the cross bar I guess this is pretty much the best
that can be done.
Anyhow this is getting off topic, and I am not an expert!
Dan
[Edited on 8/1/10 by Bluemoon]
If you want to go racing then be aware of the MSA regulations.
This thread contains some good information:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=127272
^^ Having just read that link I don't think caged will not be on my list of cage suppliers, procomp mention of not being able to get the corner
weights correct after installing the cage because of the chassis flexing says it all. Still better than a single hoop I suppose. Proper advice is
required I think from a real expert (not may of them about I feel).
Dan
[Edited on 8/1/10 by Bluemoon]
Emailed 'caged' and got this reply.
We fitted a cage to a MK indy before Christmas in the same style as our Westfield cage see the web site for photo’s, we would need to drill 8 holes in
the body for the bolts, there should be no need for welding.
Price for this would be £750 +VAT fitted we would require the car for about a week
Kind regards
Rob
just my 10ps worth i always think a full cage on an indy makes for a better looking car
out of interest, what size material do caged use, it looks smaller than the 48 i use, ive done a few weld in cages, but have been asked to think about
doing a bolt on one with side bars.
Thanks
Joe