OK Everyone who is on the road or nearly there,what have you tried and succeeded with.
I can't tell whether my steering self-centres yet
unless you want to push while I drive :-)
I have 1 degree negative camber all round with the chassis 11 cm off the ground.
The rear toe-in is 0.3 degrees each side (I shimmed the side with no toe-in to
match the other side)
The front toe-in is 0.5 degrees each side (1 degree included)
The caster angle is of course fixed but trail and steering offset are adjusted
slightly by twisting the "mushroom" that replaces the MacPherson strut. As a
start, the hole is towards the wishbone.
The tyres are far too wide at 195/50-15 and the wheels are 35mm offset.
How it will drive is anybody's guess :-)
Roger.
Thanks roger,this question was asked on the indy group at yahoo and threw back the shimming rear hubs and toe in.
But i've heard of and met one builder who did nothing and it centres no problem,so maybe there is a build prob elsewhere.
One thought is that of the 3 cars i saw at newark one had the top wishbones (Which are not identical)fitted so the hub leaned backwards a fair bit.
The other two cars had the wishbones round the other way making the hub more upright,my guess is the one with the hubs leaning back has more chance of
self centre than the other two.
I'll probably get some stick for suggesting people are putting it together wrong,but hey the early cars had no build manual so mistakes can and will
happen.
Hubs leaning back is the way to go and if that's no good Tony Skelding's car passed SVA using 3deg negative toe. Can't drive it like that but passed
OK. My own Locost has no Self centre and did'nt at SVA but passed anyhow?
Chris PTM
Cheers chris
I thought we had talked about this before,and chrisg mentioned hubs leaning back to force pressure/weight on front.
If al fails i'll just strap my 27stone brother to nose cone 
(I tried posting this yesterday, but it went AWOL)
Has anyone thought about the effect of a quick steering rack on self-centering? My theory is that it should make it more likely to self-centre than a
standard steering rack.
This is based on the fact that a quick rack gives more 'kick-back' from the road - so any self-centering effort from the wheels should have more
effect.
...on the other hand, I could be talking complete cobblers! 
rgds,
David
Bob wrote:
quote:
...but hey the early cars had no build manual
so mistakes can and will happen.
Caster angle is what makes a car self centre, just like the casters on your tea trolley when you push it forward. If any car doesn't have good self
centring then the caster angle should be measured first. On a locos style car, ainm for about 4degrees positive, i.e. line between top and bottom
balljoints, viewed from the side of the car, should slope BACK about 4degrees from the vertical
John
quote:
Are you suggesting that there is an MK build manual?
If so, how do we get it?
Roger.
mine has loads of caster but 11" wide front wheels so no centre steer - fitted bungee cords accross the car one each way so no pressure when straight, covered with convolute tubing , job done, IVA pass then took them off ;-)
quote:
Originally posted by khm
mine has loads of caster but 11" wide front wheels so no centre steer - fitted bungee cords accross the car one each way so no pressure when straight, covered with convolute tubing , job done, IVA pass then took them off ;-)
Rofl
Been quiet on here as regards MK self centering issues lately, maybe it's a certain members new tack to drum up a slagging MK post and promote
his PERFECTLY built car
tony
Holy thread resurrection or what ? I didnt look at the dates till I saw a reply from PTM and thought I had seen a ghost.
I've reported Bob as a troll for posting this
But, as mentioned is this the holiest of thread ressurection?
Is this the record?
Has it made longest running on the front page and if not why not?