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converter stub adjustment in upright
siert - 23/12/02 at 10:03 AM

the converter stub in the front uprights are a pretty tight fit and i'm wondering if it not a hassle to make slight adjustments to it, as there is little or no grip on this part!
I was thinking of drilling two small holes in it so i can fit one of those special tools used with angle grinders! I could then easily twist the stub !
Has anyone else got an idea on this ??


interestedparty - 23/12/02 at 11:12 AM

That aounds like an excellent idea, can't see any problems at all

John


CairB - 23/12/02 at 01:02 PM

Forgive me if you think it's brutal, but I found that tapping a cold chisel up the slot just enough to expand the hole allows the adjuster to become free. When I first did it I remember thingking that Martin had left the gap in the lower wishbone for said purpose and how nice it was when maintenance is considered in the design.


Rorty - 24/12/02 at 05:50 AM

I'm not building a Locost, so you'll have to excuse my ignorance on this matter, and I've only seen a pic of one of these (aluminium?) adjusters.
Surely as you adjust for castor, the camber angle will go to hell in the process, and accuracy of both castor and camber will be a hit and miss affair at best?
I know someone is going to say the camber can be fine tuned by adjusting the thread on the ball joint, but is there enough accuracy without a concentric adjuster for the balljoint?
I don't mean to upset any apple carts, I just don't know the answer.
Just one more sleep!


DEAN C. - 26/12/02 at 01:05 PM

Set castor first with the insert,then alter camber on the top joint thread adjustment,don't see why it should be hit and miss.
Don't try to set both with the insert alone ,you cant do it!