I noticed at donno that the threaded tubes for the harness bolts have been beefed up with some plate to create a web between the tubes and chassis. Is this related to a thread i read on here about an MK Indy failing SVA because of this, altyhough Martin did speak to the test centre (and Swansea) to sort it out? Just a bit worried about my older chassis that doesn't have it.

Hi Austen,

Just so happens I took a couple of pics of the mountings to show the SVA man as I think they will be covered up after I panel the interior. I've put them in my archive, hopefully there of some use.

Cheers

Nick

Mine passed fine at Beverley in July, no gussets.

Ben

It was my indy that was the centre of the seat belt anchorage contraversy back in June. Martin came to some agreement with Swansea to apease the situation and the testers decision was overuled.
Thats why the extra "bridge" has been added, though i don't know how this will affect home built chassis. Again it seems all down to individual testers and stations.

does anyone know where mk get their threaded tubes

i need some for my harness



cheers.

Redeye,

I think they drill out some round bar and then tap the hole to suit.

Cheers

Nick

how do u tap the hole

is this easy to do???

Redeye,

Hold the round bar in a vice, and drill though with correct size drill bit.

Then run through with a tap.

You may find it easier to buy some threaded tube instead.

ATB

Simon

quote:

---

Originally posted by Simon

You may find it easier to buy some threaded tube instead.

---

oh eye leave the bolt in case harden it snap it trying to get it out redrill and tap out............. weld it on and then clean the threads up with a tap

... all this tapping? Have I wondered into a Fred Astair Appreciation Society or a Kit Car Builders Forum?

Mad... sounds like you speak from experience!

mad-butcher

are u saying that it NOT a good idea to leave a bolt in?

i always found the best way to drill and tap round bar was with a lathe then when welding it in make a mushroom of modelling clay so that no weld spatter can get in the treads once done pull out the clay and run a tap through the treads again.
the method with the bolt in can result in a broken bolt and then you have to start all over again but with the disadvantage that the thing is now welded to somthing large and difficult to handle

[Edited on 18/9/03 by timf]

I started the thread until I reached the end of the tapered bit of the tap. Then, after welding, I finished it off.

DJ

I started this thread off, and it got totally hijacked!

erm...............sorry?

Badger, badger, badger, badger, aagh snake, aagh snake.

yours, Pete.

I'll get me coat.

mine ain't renforced either but i seem to remember an mk in a crash last year front corner torn off BUT NO BREAKAGES AT THE ANCHORAGES
tony

redeye:

quote:

---

are u saying that it NOT a good idea to leave a bolt in?

---

Whilst we're on the subject of tapping, is the tap twisted in or hammered of a bit of both? and does one tap do all the thread or is it stages?

A quick 'Google' resulted with THIS

Has any body considered the fact that these bolts are a special non-standard thread and the taps are very expensive ?? If any body would like any thing like this making then please u2u me

What thread are these bolts/tubes?

I didn't know they were non-standard till you mentioned it, but now you do I can't find any bolts to fit!!!!

Cheers

Nick

Had to tap holes out so bolts went in smoothly after chassis had been powder coated.

Took a bolt to local nut and bolt supplier and when i asked for a tap to clean out seat belt mounting bolts he told me they where 7/16 UNF. Got tap and clean out holes, just takeing off powder coating no metal.

Bolts now screw in all way by hand.

Tony.