Could someone please explain to me how the MK brake kit goes together, most is self explanatory but I'm a bit confused about other parts, such as whether I have to fit a bias valve and some kind of warning light, and if I do, where do I put them?

My kit has the following:

4 flexi hoses
1 o/s front pipe
1 n/s front pipe
1 master cylinder to 't' pipe
1 o/s rear pipe
1 n/s rear pipe
2 rear hub pipes
1 front to rear pipe with some kind of electrical connector on the end

Pete

does your master cylinder have 3 outputs? should do i think, so that is a separate pipe for each front brake, and one to the back with the T piece to branch it to each side. Obvioulsy one flexi on each corner.

no sure about the electrical thingy, probably the brake light switch activated by the pressure.

you dont need a bias valve i think so long as the fronts lock up before the backs, if it doesnt you will need either an adjuster or a limiter of some sort.

needs a switch for the brake lights and a low fluid switch, usually in the resevoir. And the low fluid switch must be testable, usually by the handbrake.

HTH...

Scooby,

Have a look in our website as there are 'anomolies' with this kit. Hope it's clear enough. It's in October build diary... of course it's not the trusted way, just the tried way!

Any questions, just fire away. Hope it's of help, that's what it's intended for.

We also have some pictures of MK's build of their Indy, which does not use their standard brake kit.

Cheers

I've just fitted the front hubs/discs/calipers and working out the routing for pipework.
All looks OK but the flexies show about 10mm of thread when fitted to the calipers.
I'm sure it will work fine but it looks a bit vulnerable .

I recall other vehicles that used fittings with shorter thread and a copper sealing washer under the hex but that can't apply here - we have to seal on the tapered end.

Any reassuring comments/observations?

Check out a big thread started by Stepehen Gusterson about brake advice (Do a search), there is a lot of info in there regarding the sealing of tapered mating surfaces, i have mine going directly into the caliper and also have about 10mm of thread showing, but it is sealed correctly though.

Thanks Col.
If it works for you then I'll go with it!
Mind you, I like the idea of a short bundy from flexy-to-caliper even if there are two more joints to leak.
It transfers the weak point to the bracket so any disturbance to the pipework bends the bracket+bundy rather than the end of the flexy - the bit that isn't flexy, if you get my contorted drift!

...but then the other brain cell kicked in.
As soon as I got home I realised there's nowhere to fix a bracket on the caliper

Unless anyone knows different?