going to try and adjust the camber and toe settings tonight for the front.

Am I correct that the lock nuts on the ball joints need removing and then seperate the ball joint from the hub, adjust and reattach? does the ball joint need lock nutting to test settings or can they be left off until happy with result as I can see me going through a fair few lock nuts.

Once happy should the torque settings be as per the Sierra or different? if different what should they be

Many thanks for the help
Nigel

[Edited on 13/5/08 by jabbahutt]

[Edited on 13/5/08 by jabbahutt]

until your happy that its setup just use plain nuts and nip them up finger tight.

just don't forget to replace them later...

a bit of grease on the cone will help prevent it grabbing for now.

sounds like your making good progress with the car, keep it up



[Edited on 13/5/08 by Mr Whippy]

If it's anything like mine the ball joint needs separating to adjust.
I've then used a load of packing washers under the lock nut until I'm happy with the setting so the taper draws up tight but you don't end up needing loads of lock- nuts.
Cheers, Pewe

I wouldn't be too concerned about the torque settings, if the tapered cone is clean it will grab and that’s that. Hand tight is fine.

A tip is to spray some carb cleaner on the tapered cone (I roughen the surface with sand paper), tighten it up using an ordinary nut, then gently remove that and replace with a nylock. That way you won't have the annoying situation where the cone simply turns with a half threaded on nut and you having to work out how to get the damn thing tight.

if it's on an indy, i found it easier just to take the mushroom out of the hub.

tom

I used to remove the wishbone from the chassis mounts and turn the whole wishbone - until I found the GTS tuning easy to adjust ones. Not sure he makes them any more but they were one of the best mods I made to my indy.

Cheers

Mark