Board logo

Welded Driveshafts?
smart1275gt - 4/12/07 at 09:03 PM

Hi all,
I need to join two different driveshaft's for my project and had quotes to do so, but worried they will break. Anyone had this done before and where? I can't afford custom one piece ones at over £200 per side.

Help and advice much appriciated.
Thanks.


R1 STRIKER - 4/12/07 at 09:13 PM

Yeah, the striker shafts are the same. Shortened sierra shafts. Have never had any problems with a mix of road and track use. Thats not to say they can't break but if done properly it's pretty rare.

Ben.


jambojeef - 4/12/07 at 09:33 PM

I wouldnt worry too much....

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0608_trail_welding_broken_driveshaft/index.html

How hard can it be?!


iank - 4/12/07 at 09:53 PM

Have you contacted GB Engineering ( http://www.berrisford.co.uk/index.php?cPath=45&osCsid=jkmf56q1ju2qfe72fv2jaa58g6 ) they shouldn't cost £200 per side unless you are getting the gundrilled 'unbreakable' ones.

Getting driveshafts welded up isn't too bad, especially as IIRC you are going A series so won't be subjecting them to massive torque.


BenB - 4/12/07 at 10:19 PM

The STM / Aries ones are welded....


welderman - 4/12/07 at 10:46 PM

welded shafts worked for me, do them properly and your ok.


quattromike - 4/12/07 at 11:24 PM

I welded mine, just machined up a coller so that the driveshaft fitted into at both side with quite a tight fit to help keep them straight then welded them all round and checked to make sure the were dead straight so there is no vibrations to coz problems and gave them a quick ballence in the lathe. and no probs albeit I havn't actually driven my car yet, give me a shout in a few years and mabey I'll be on the road. I might have a pic of them in my photo archive.

Mike


albertz - 5/12/07 at 08:28 AM

Years ago i needed to join two different drive shafts. What i did was turned a small spigot onto one end and a matching hole on the other half. Then i turned a large weld prep right into the spigot diameter. Also, i made a tight fitting collar that i slipped back onto one half of the shaft.

Inserting the spigot into the hole centralised both halfs, then i built up the weld right around the shaft so that the entire thickness of the shaft was joined, finally slipped the collar back over the top and fully welded that in place.

To ensure concentricity i set the shaft up in a lathe between centres and revolved it slowly with a clock gauage. Two or three slight persuaders with a copper mallet and it was running perfectly true.

When fitted i had absolutely no problems or hassle.

If its done right it will be fine i would say.


RazMan - 5/12/07 at 08:47 AM

£200 per SIDE??? GB did mine to my spec for £160 the PAIR


smart1275gt - 5/12/07 at 04:58 PM

quote:
Originally posted by iank
Have you contacted GB Engineering ( http://www.berrisford.co.uk/index.php?cPath=45&osCsid=jkmf56q1ju2qfe72fv2jaa58g6 ) they shouldn't cost £200 per side unless you are getting the gundrilled 'unbreakable' ones.

Getting driveshafts welded up isn't too bad, especially as IIRC you are going A series so won't be subjecting them to massive torque.


Thanks for the web address, have sent them a message to quote.

PS, Is your Freestyle a turbo? Got any pix?


NS Dev - 5/12/07 at 07:46 PM

I'm the usual proponent of GB engineering on here having used a load of his stuff on my grassers.

Phone him as he's an old school engineer more than an email type, but the price will be £80 a side, for any length shaft, non-gundrilled.

They will be heat treated and they are MUCH lighter than std ford ones, as well as much stronger.

I have used them for a numnber of years racing and have a set on the locost with 200hp. I have now killed two Lobro type CV joints but the shafts are perfect and as new.