Since 2005 we’ve had a minor fault with the electrics on our ZX12R BEC. Every now and again, the engine won’t start on the button. It’s as though the battery is flat but it isn’t. If the car is left for a while, it will usually start up normally but sometimes (depending where the car has stopped) this isn’t always an option and a push start is needed to get it going again. It’s not a big issue and it’s only happened about eight or so times in the last eight years but when it does happen, it’s a real PITA. All the earth connections have been checked and cleaned and appear to be ok. Because it happens so infrequently, it’s difficult to trace and find out what could be causing it. Does anyone have any ideas?

Phil

I have encountered similar issues mainly on Honda powered Rovers, Hondas and other Japanese cars due to soldered joint failures on the circuit board in relays.

we used a solenoid after we had problems with relay.
since then no problems.

put a pinto in it....

sorted!!!

Can you tell if it's flooding when it won't start?

Does the soleniod sound like its clicking forward? but just the main starter doesn't fire.

If that's the case it might be that the starter ring gear and solenoid have just unluckily have stopped with a full tooth showing to each other and the solenoid can't get enough thow to knock either round into mesh.

We had this problem with the Duratec, used to just rock the car with it in gear then to turn flywheel then it'd fire no problem.

Maybe worth trying next time it happens.

Can't really tell if it's flooding when it doesn't start. It's a strange one. Everything appears fine, the clocks do a diagnostic check as soon as the ignition is turned on and the starter motor attempts to kick in when the button is pushed but it sounds like the battery has just suddenly lost all power........

Phil

I've had something similar on my R1, I take it you hit the button an it doesn't turn over at all? It has done it twice on me and I found out the cause was very slight corrosion between the terminals on the battery and the leads, barely noticeable to the eye but it was enough. Think the metals in the leads don't get on with the battery terminals on the bike battery.

But if there is slight corrosion on the terminals, enough to prevent it from starting, why would it start up after it's been left for a while? If the terminals are tight, they shouldn't be losing contact intermittently.......

Thermal expansion/contraction of various joints and contacts?

I'd really check all the heavy cables, then all the lighter ones and if all OK I'd then start blaming the solenoid.

quote:

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Originally posted by Hellfire
But if there is slight corrosion on the terminals, enough to prevent it from starting, why would it start up after it's been left for a while? If the terminals are tight, they shouldn't be losing contact intermittently.......

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OK, I'll give it a try and report back.......

Phil

I had issues like that with my Mk Indy Blade. Turned out to be the connector were the first main fuse is. The one coming off the battery terminal. Had loads of that green stuff in it. Gave it a good clean and all was sorted.
Some times it would just lose all power for a second. Which was fine if you are doing 60mph.. But a couple of times it done it in town traffic. Push the button and nothing. Push it again and it would fire up.
Hope you sort it soon Phil.

Just had a similar problem and traced it to the cutout switch - a few turns of the key back and forth seems to have cured it?