Morning
Car door frozen solid this morning and I think its because we used warm water on it to free it on Friday - any ideas on what I could coat the seals in
to get rid of the moisture that won't perish the rubber itself ?
Also I'm booked on a college welding course in Jan - woohoo - I need to bring suitable boots and clothes. I have welding gauntlets which I got
cheap from ebay. What else will I need - I haven't got a boiler suit or boots yet.....
many thanks
Paul
Get some flameproof overalls?? sell on the bay quite cheap. I just weld in jeans and a leather jacket this weather, I find its the grinding that sets firs to things . Avoid polyester stuff next to the skin, sticks when it melts. And I keep thinking about something to stop the little bits of molten metal getting into my boots (no, my trousers aren't to short, but stuff seems to get in there anyway )
And doorseals...Silicone??
Door seals - vaseline. ( Comes in handy for other things )
if you use silicone, it has to be the stuff that doesnt set !
vaseline is easier.
quote:
Originally posted by T66
if you use silicone, it has to be the stuff that doesnt set !
vaseline is easier.
Vaseline's far too messy on door seals (or elsewhere).
Get a can of silicone maintanance spray from Halfords or a motor factors - it does what it says on the tin. A good squirt in the locks helps as well
(although remote central locking often negates this these days).
Thanks folks !!
Works on my Lada perfectly well....
I have never marked my oily clothes once , nor has the Mrs greased her ball gown.
And the doors dont stick either.
You will need steel toe capped boots for the welding course. They wont let you do it otherwise because of elf n'safety
Yep, vaseline. Works a treat. Don't forget to spray your locks AND handles with white grease or similar. If you don't it is possible that
the newer cars with these 5p plastic door handles can actually break. The plastic gets so brittle in the really low temperatures that when you pull it
too hard because it's frozen it can snap clean off
HTH
Yeah, silicon spary carnt make it worse. However in the main i think you just need to try and keep them dry and free them with a bit of a shove.
Worked for me so far.
Welding cloths, I would just take a set of cotten overalls, doesnt really matter if the flame retardent or not i wouldnt say, but if your buying for
the task in hand polyester is not ideal! Then yeah, proberbly a sent of £25 steelies.
That said, when i did a ten week (two hours per week) welding course from school we where sent out in polyester overalls and our school shoes and all
came back alive. I did once rest my welding rod (oxy ace) on my lap to find it was the hot end i was resting. After about 30second its suddenly went
through my overalls and into my leg, more ove a supprise of it going through the overall than anythign else but it hurt later on and its left a mark
to this day. Meh
Daniel
good boots, decent gloves, and keep an eye out in the army surplus stores
all my overalls are the nomex ones, warm, practical and flameproof.
not essential, but certainly not going to do any harm by being flameproof.
Thanks again everyone - army surplus stores is a good call, I'll go to the local one I think
Try fleabay, you get some cheap ex-hire stuff (Under a tenner delivered)
Plus it is sooooo much better to arrive in overalls that are not fresh from the packet
Hi, just completed a welding course in Crawley college, certainly recommend it but think it may be dependant upon the tutor.
One thing I would say is, if you are planning welding afterwards get yourself a mask now as the college ones are badly handled and generally trashed.
Crawley provided each person with a new set of gloves
I would also consider your own clear goggles for grinding, specifically if pointing tungstens etc as again the college ones were badly scratched and
was difficult to see, particularly if your eyes are not great close up.
Remember you can wear glasses under a mask, or get a mask with correction lenses, something worth thinking about when buying a mask.
Mike