EasyJimbo
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posted on 21/4/09 at 10:36 AM |
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Essentials required
Gents
Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to get all the bits I need ready for my kit to be delivered in a few weeks time. I have just ordered a
batch of metric nuts and bolts, but what other consumables do need, i.e. PU sealent, is there one type I should get, anything else that is needed. If
I order a batch of rivets what sizes are th emost popular or do you only use one size?
apreciate this is a slightly open question but would apreciate a list I can work from.
thanks
James
be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 21/4/09 at 10:48 AM |
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5mm rivets are the normal size
buy some good cobalt drill bits and a center punch (wait till you see how many holes you have to drill ), a 1m steel rule is very handy as is a
large steel set square and plenty of small g-clamps. Rubber and plastic mallets for metal forming and some good surface blocks of wood too.
a 'lazy tong riveter' is a god send and will save your hands
[Edited on 21/4/09 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Howlor
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posted on 21/4/09 at 10:51 AM |
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If you haven't got one already a basic metric tap n' die set is really useful, you can sometimes make things look neater by tapping them
into the chassis rather than either a self tapping screw or a bolt right through. You can also clean up any threads that are corroded etc.
A few lengths of heat shrink tubing and spiral wrap I used in a few places to neaten areas up.
Self drilling screws, always handy.
Flowers and wine to keep her in doors on your side.
Steve
Edited - Agree with the Whipster above on a decent set of drills. I bought some cobalt bits from machine mart, they are priceless, and they are still
going strong.
[Edited on 21/4/09 by Howlor]
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 21/4/09 at 10:55 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Howlor
Flowers and wine to keep her in doors on your side.
oooooohhhh yes don't forget that, buy a large crate of wine so she get drunk, pass out and then leave you in peace to get on with the car
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Howlor
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posted on 21/4/09 at 10:57 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote: Originally posted by Howlor
Flowers and wine to keep her in doors on your side.
oooooohhhh yes don't forget that, buy a large crate of wine so she get drunk, pass out and then leave you in peace to get on with the car
Lol
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Howlor
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posted on 21/4/09 at 11:03 AM |
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And another thing, make sure you buy a load of standard nuts and not just nylocs. That way you can test assemble with the standard nuts then when you
are happy it's not coming apart again replace and torque with the nylocs.
Steve
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Staple balls
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posted on 21/4/09 at 11:08 AM |
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Lazy riveter is a must have, your hands will drop off before the floor's done with a normal one.
For PU, Sikaflex 221 is the way to go, but buy a few tubes (ebay is probably cheapest, shop around) it sets as soon as you look at a tube, so keep
that in mind.
Also buy a few extra of the drills for whatever size rivets you use, chances are you'll kill a few.
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scotlad
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posted on 21/4/09 at 11:12 AM |
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If you have a compressor, an air riveter is best of all for those pesky floor rivets and any other rivets for that matter. Mine is one of the best
tools i've bought and is loved almost as much as my BluePoint windy gun
Edit to say screwfix do 10 packs of titanium coated drills for very reasonable prices
[Edited on 21/4/09 by scotlad]
Wonderous is our great blue ship that sails around the mighty sun, and joy to everyone that rides along!
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MikeR
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posted on 21/4/09 at 11:32 AM |
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Buy closed end rivets - helps reduce the chance of water getting into the chassis and rusting it from the inside.
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nick205
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posted on 21/4/09 at 11:48 AM |
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Cable ties - black looks best IMHO and get long ones that you can cut down rather than short ones.
Plastic P clips - for brake and fuel lines
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sickbag
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posted on 21/4/09 at 12:02 PM |
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If you've not already done so then I'd recommend you read through other peoples build diaries, and not just the ones specific to your
model.
Finally back on the job!
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MakeEverything
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posted on 21/4/09 at 02:54 PM |
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Buy more than one set of gloves!!
I keep forgetting to put the gauntlets on (or cant be bothered) and burn holes in my leather ones.
Also, get plenty of small, medium and a couple of large G Clamps or those automatic ones. Small metal G Clamps are ideal for welding, as they dont
melt, though if its a pre-made chassis then its not such a problem.
Lots of different size bolts are well handy, as are an extra pair of hands supplied by a helpful neighbour. Particularly when muscling an engine
around.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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EasyJimbo
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posted on 21/4/09 at 03:44 PM |
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Guys
Looking at plastic p clips for brakes and fueld lines what size do I need - 14mm ok?
thanks
J
be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/
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Staple balls
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posted on 21/4/09 at 03:48 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by EasyJimbo
Guys
Looking at plastic p clips for brakes and fueld lines what size do I need - 14mm ok?
thanks
J
I think;
4mm for copper brake lines
9-10mm for copper fuel lines
14-15mm for the rubber fuel hose I have.
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EasyJimbo
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posted on 21/4/09 at 03:59 PM |
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Thanks, what length rivets should I go for
thanks
James
be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/
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James
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posted on 21/4/09 at 05:14 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by EasyJimbo
Thanks, what length rivets should I go for
thanks
James
It depends where you're fitting them!
As said by someone above, 5mm (if that's the crushable 'shaft' size) is much too big.
4mm is what I used everywhere.
HTH,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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EasyJimbo
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posted on 21/4/09 at 05:47 PM |
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Thanks James, I am slightly confused as they seem to quote 2 mm sizes i.e. 4mm x 12mm, which figure is what on these?
thanks
J
be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/
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flibble
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posted on 22/4/09 at 06:18 PM |
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quote:
Thanks James, I am slightly confused as they seem to quote 2 mm sizes i.e. 4mm x 12mm, which figure is what on these?
4mm width of the rivet (into a 4mm hole), 12mm long shank, ie. thicker metal needs a longer shank to go through to the other side.
[Edited on 22/4/09 by flibble]
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eddbaz
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posted on 23/4/09 at 12:43 PM |
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dremil and hole saw set
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Mark G
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posted on 25/4/09 at 05:15 PM |
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Jim if you haven't got one yet, you can borrow my lazy riviter to do the floor. I'd also recomend getting a kit of mixed sized rivnuts
and a rivnut tool.
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EasyJimbo
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posted on 25/4/09 at 06:42 PM |
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Hi Mark, yes I have got a lazy riveeter, good advice about the rivnuts etc, question though where do you use the rivnuts, do you use these in certain
places instead of rivets?
Hows your few bits post the SVA going?
J
be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/
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Mark G
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posted on 26/4/09 at 09:42 PM |
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generally you'd fit them anywhere you want to mount something to the chassis with a bolt. The rivnut essentially just inserts a thread into the
chassis for you to use. I've used them for earths, mounting horns, fuel filter....
as for my car SVA wise pretty much everything apart from the self centering is done, thats this weeks task.
Do you have a date for collection yet?
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EasyJimbo
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posted on 27/4/09 at 07:43 AM |
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Thanks Mark, sounds good. MK havent given me an exact date yet but said it would be week after stoneleigh show, so not long now:-)
J
be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/
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