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Author: Subject: Essentials required
EasyJimbo

posted on 21/4/09 at 10:36 AM Reply With Quote
Essentials required

Gents
Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to get all the bits I need ready for my kit to be delivered in a few weeks time. I have just ordered a batch of metric nuts and bolts, but what other consumables do need, i.e. PU sealent, is there one type I should get, anything else that is needed. If I order a batch of rivets what sizes are th emost popular or do you only use one size?
apreciate this is a slightly open question but would apreciate a list I can work from.
thanks
James





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Mr Whippy

posted on 21/4/09 at 10:48 AM Reply With Quote
5mm rivets are the normal size

buy some good cobalt drill bits and a center punch (wait till you see how many holes you have to drill ), a 1m steel rule is very handy as is a large steel set square and plenty of small g-clamps. Rubber and plastic mallets for metal forming and some good surface blocks of wood too.

a 'lazy tong riveter' is a god send and will save your hands



[Edited on 21/4/09 by Mr Whippy]





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Howlor

posted on 21/4/09 at 10:51 AM Reply With Quote
If you haven't got one already a basic metric tap n' die set is really useful, you can sometimes make things look neater by tapping them into the chassis rather than either a self tapping screw or a bolt right through. You can also clean up any threads that are corroded etc.

A few lengths of heat shrink tubing and spiral wrap I used in a few places to neaten areas up.

Self drilling screws, always handy.

Flowers and wine to keep her in doors on your side.

Steve

Edited - Agree with the Whipster above on a decent set of drills. I bought some cobalt bits from machine mart, they are priceless, and they are still going strong.

[Edited on 21/4/09 by Howlor]

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Mr Whippy

posted on 21/4/09 at 10:55 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Howlor

Flowers and wine to keep her in doors on your side.




oooooohhhh yes don't forget that, buy a large crate of wine so she get drunk, pass out and then leave you in peace to get on with the car





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Howlor

posted on 21/4/09 at 10:57 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by Howlor

Flowers and wine to keep her in doors on your side.




oooooohhhh yes don't forget that, buy a large crate of wine so she get drunk, pass out and then leave you in peace to get on with the car


Lol

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Howlor

posted on 21/4/09 at 11:03 AM Reply With Quote
And another thing, make sure you buy a load of standard nuts and not just nylocs. That way you can test assemble with the standard nuts then when you are happy it's not coming apart again replace and torque with the nylocs.

Steve

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Staple balls

posted on 21/4/09 at 11:08 AM Reply With Quote
Lazy riveter is a must have, your hands will drop off before the floor's done with a normal one.

For PU, Sikaflex 221 is the way to go, but buy a few tubes (ebay is probably cheapest, shop around) it sets as soon as you look at a tube, so keep that in mind.

Also buy a few extra of the drills for whatever size rivets you use, chances are you'll kill a few.






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scotlad
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Building: Built MK Indy Blade, RH 2b Zetec, rebuilding locos

posted on 21/4/09 at 11:12 AM Reply With Quote
If you have a compressor, an air riveter is best of all for those pesky floor rivets and any other rivets for that matter. Mine is one of the best tools i've bought and is loved almost as much as my BluePoint windy gun

Edit to say screwfix do 10 packs of titanium coated drills for very reasonable prices

[Edited on 21/4/09 by scotlad]





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MikeR

posted on 21/4/09 at 11:32 AM Reply With Quote
Buy closed end rivets - helps reduce the chance of water getting into the chassis and rusting it from the inside.
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nick205

posted on 21/4/09 at 11:48 AM Reply With Quote
Cable ties - black looks best IMHO and get long ones that you can cut down rather than short ones.

Plastic P clips - for brake and fuel lines






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sickbag

posted on 21/4/09 at 12:02 PM Reply With Quote
If you've not already done so then I'd recommend you read through other peoples build diaries, and not just the ones specific to your model.





Finally back on the job!

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MakeEverything

posted on 21/4/09 at 02:54 PM Reply With Quote
Buy more than one set of gloves!!
I keep forgetting to put the gauntlets on (or cant be bothered) and burn holes in my leather ones.

Also, get plenty of small, medium and a couple of large G Clamps or those automatic ones. Small metal G Clamps are ideal for welding, as they dont melt, though if its a pre-made chassis then its not such a problem.

Lots of different size bolts are well handy, as are an extra pair of hands supplied by a helpful neighbour. Particularly when muscling an engine around.





Kindest Regards,
Richard.

...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...

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EasyJimbo

posted on 21/4/09 at 03:44 PM Reply With Quote
Guys
Looking at plastic p clips for brakes and fueld lines what size do I need - 14mm ok?
thanks
J





be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/

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Staple balls

posted on 21/4/09 at 03:48 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by EasyJimbo
Guys
Looking at plastic p clips for brakes and fueld lines what size do I need - 14mm ok?
thanks
J


I think;
4mm for copper brake lines
9-10mm for copper fuel lines
14-15mm for the rubber fuel hose I have.






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EasyJimbo

posted on 21/4/09 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks, what length rivets should I go for
thanks
James





be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/

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James

posted on 21/4/09 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by EasyJimbo
Thanks, what length rivets should I go for
thanks
James


It depends where you're fitting them!

As said by someone above, 5mm (if that's the crushable 'shaft' size) is much too big.
4mm is what I used everywhere.

HTH,
James





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EasyJimbo

posted on 21/4/09 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks James, I am slightly confused as they seem to quote 2 mm sizes i.e. 4mm x 12mm, which figure is what on these?

thanks
J





be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/

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flibble

posted on 22/4/09 at 06:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Thanks James, I am slightly confused as they seem to quote 2 mm sizes i.e. 4mm x 12mm, which figure is what on these?



4mm width of the rivet (into a 4mm hole), 12mm long shank, ie. thicker metal needs a longer shank to go through to the other side.

[Edited on 22/4/09 by flibble]

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eddbaz

posted on 23/4/09 at 12:43 PM Reply With Quote
dremil and hole saw set
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Mark G

posted on 25/4/09 at 05:15 PM Reply With Quote
Jim if you haven't got one yet, you can borrow my lazy riviter to do the floor. I'd also recomend getting a kit of mixed sized rivnuts and a rivnut tool.
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EasyJimbo

posted on 25/4/09 at 06:42 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Mark, yes I have got a lazy riveeter, good advice about the rivnuts etc, question though where do you use the rivnuts, do you use these in certain places instead of rivets?
Hows your few bits post the SVA going?
J





be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/

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Mark G

posted on 26/4/09 at 09:42 PM Reply With Quote
generally you'd fit them anywhere you want to mount something to the chassis with a bolt. The rivnut essentially just inserts a thread into the chassis for you to use. I've used them for earths, mounting horns, fuel filter....

as for my car SVA wise pretty much everything apart from the self centering is done, thats this weeks task.

Do you have a date for collection yet?

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EasyJimbo

posted on 27/4/09 at 07:43 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks Mark, sounds good. MK havent given me an exact date yet but said it would be week after stoneleigh show, so not long now:-)

J





be gentle I am new to all this :-)
blog: http://mkjimbo-mkindybuild.blogspot.com/

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