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Author: Subject: Brake Bleed and M1144 pads - pic inside
Kriss

posted on 18/5/09 at 12:43 PM Reply With Quote
Brake Bleed and M1144 pads - pic inside

Hi Guys,

I have brands two weeks today. I am going to replace the brake fluid as its unknown to me what it is and me and my mate have plenty of RBF600 in stock.

Questions are:

Brakes are bleed fine as they are now, but will pumping new fluid cause these bubbles and bleeding issues people have with rear seirra calipers when pumping through new fluid?

Secondly, How do I know what brakes I have as to what pad I need? I have read that Mintex M1144 are the choice pad but I need to know what application I need.

Pics below for anyone who can tell me what sierra application I have.



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nick205

posted on 18/5/09 at 12:58 PM Reply With Quote
Looks to me like you have solid front discs?

If so then I'd guess at early 1.3/1.6 Sierra brakes.

Doesn't loom like you've driven it yet - too shiney by far






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mcerd1

posted on 18/5/09 at 12:58 PM Reply With Quote
what size is the disc ?

there are only 4 kinds with that style caliper:

240mm solid (1.3 / some 1.6)
240mm vented (non-ABS 1.8 / 2.0)
260mm vented (ABS, 4x4 and V6)
278mm vented (Cossie 4x4)

[Edited on 18/5/09 by mcerd1]





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Kriss

posted on 18/5/09 at 12:59 PM Reply With Quote
They are build pictures lol, also whyt he wheels are bolted on loosely.

Anyone know any places that sell M1144 pads and if they come in my application?

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Kriss

posted on 18/5/09 at 01:34 PM Reply With Quote
They are solid disks
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nick205

posted on 18/5/09 at 02:17 PM Reply With Quote
Burton Power, Rally Design, Ebay, Merlin can probably help






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britishtrident

posted on 18/5/09 at 03:05 PM Reply With Quote
Strongly advise you stick to standard DOT 5.1 fluid or even DOT 4 ----- the more exotic the fluid the more hydroscopic they are and hence the more moisture they absorb from the atmosphere.

Racing fluids are designed for systems where the fluid is bled through on a regular bassis. Once a racing type or so called high performance fluid absorbs water the boiling point falls like a stone and of course it leaves the door openfor corosion problems. After 2 months the boiling point will be below that of fresh DOT 5.1 after 6 months 6 month old DOT5.1 will have a higher boiling point.

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oldtimer

posted on 18/5/09 at 04:26 PM Reply With Quote
Thats hygroscopic not hydroscopic
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Kriss

posted on 18/5/09 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
thatnks for your advice but the RBF600 DOT4 we are putting in has been sucesfful on numerous application all used hard on track across a variety of cars

Evo 6 and 9
Various 2 ltr Clios (Cups, Trophy, 182)
Clio V6
Megabusa
VX220
BMW135

Its a fluid me and my track mates all personally trust and keep in stock.

I emailed merlin re brake pads.

Anyone know if this air issue will come into play on a standard bleed?

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nick205

posted on 19/5/09 at 11:51 AM Reply With Quote
Depends how you change the fluid.

If you pump all (as much as you can) of the existing fluid out of the system before refilling then you'll need to bleed thoroughly and may need to remove the calipers to get them higher and ensure all the air is out.

If you simply pump a little out and keep topping up with fresh fluid so that no air can enter the system then as your not disturbing anything else you shouldn't have any problems.

I'd go for the first method though to ensure minimal contamination between the old/new fluid even if they are the same DOT rating.






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Kriss

posted on 19/5/09 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p626/MDB1175-M1144-FORD/product_inf o.html

are these the little beauties I need? Reconmended from merlin but they said to check shape

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Frosty

posted on 19/5/09 at 01:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Strongly advise you stick to standard DOT 5.1 fluid or even DOT 4 ----- the more exotic the fluid the more hydroscopic they are and hence the more moisture they absorb from the atmosphere.

Racing fluids are designed for systems where the fluid is bled through on a regular bassis. Once a racing type or so called high performance fluid absorbs water the boiling point falls like a stone and of course it leaves the door openfor corosion problems. After 2 months the boiling point will be below that of fresh DOT 5.1 after 6 months 6 month old DOT5.1 will have a higher boiling point.

I don't agree with this at all. Brake fluid by it's very design is supposed to be hygroscopic.

It's not a side effect of a high boiling point fluid, but a design principal so that any moisture that enters your braking system e.g. through the seals will be absorbed immediately by the brake fluid so that it can NEVER lead to corrosion in the braking system.

If a brake fluid is absorbing water then it's doing its job exactly as it's designed to.

You say that race fluid absorbs more water than a normal fluid, but I would have thought that any fluid once sealed into a braking system can only absorb as much moisture as it present in the first place?

So in a sealed braking system, a racing fluid would only absorb as much moisture as a normal fluid, and if it did absorb more then it would be a good thing, otherwise the moisture would be left in the system!!!

This is why Castrol SRF must be changed so often - because it absorbs LESS moisture than a normal fluid and chemically reacts with it to keep a high wet boiling point. As a result I assume it has less corrosion protection so must be changed more frequently.

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