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Author: Subject: Replacing Clutch in 2.0 Pinto (MK Indy)
Tipster69

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
Replacing Clutch in 2.0 Pinto (MK Indy)

Hi,

I've just collected my already built (unfinished) MK Indy with 2.0 Pinto with a Type 9 box.

Having not built the kit myself I am unsure how easy / hard it is to replace the clutch on this setup.

Have any of you with a similar setup any tips as to the easiest / quickest procedure to replace the clutch.

Thanks in advance.

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lotusmadandy

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
The only way to do it is to remove the engine,as the box wont come out with the motor in place.

Ive got to pull the zetec out of my indy next week to change the box.

Andy






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omega0684

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
whip the engine out (without gearbox)

undo the 6 bolts holding on the clutch casing

take it off and remove drive plate.

put in new drive plate and replace new pressure plate, making sure all is lined up

do up casing bolts to correct torque,

job done!

drop the engine back in and away you go!

[Edited on 18/4/10 by omega0684]





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

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dogwood

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
The hardest part is getting the engne out.
doing a clutch on a Pinto is easy peasy





FREE THE ROADSTER ONE…!!

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mookaloid

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
Engine and gearbox out, split the box off, replace clutch, reverse procedure





"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."


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prawnabie

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
You can disconnect the engine from the box and move it forward enough to change the clutch on my locost. If you have a hoist its easy enough to pull the engine out and have the pleasure of doing it rather than struggling with it in situ.
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Tipster69

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:37 PM Reply With Quote
Christ on a bike, that was some fast response.

MEGA THANKS for the info.

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Tipster69

posted on 18/4/10 at 07:43 PM Reply With Quote
Hi,

I was told (and the guy was a real gent so I have no reason whatsoever to doubt him).

That when it was built a new clutch was fitted (not by him). But it as always been inoperative, any idea as to the likelihood that it will be a simple fix without the need to buy new?

The whole thing was built circa 5 years ago and as never moved since.

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austin man

posted on 18/4/10 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote
If youve never done one before I would advise you buy a clutch aligning tool to ensure it is correctly centred.

The locost way is a bar and insulation tape followed by a good eye





Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone

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Tipster69

posted on 18/4/10 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by austin man
If youve never done one before I would advise you buy a clutch aligning tool to ensure it is correctly centred.

The locost way is a bar and insulation tape followed by a good eye


Hi,

Thanks for the info. I have replaced them before but not on this setup. That said, I think the last time was on a Ford Orion in circa 1990, lol.

Thanks again.

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omega0684

posted on 18/4/10 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tipster69
Hi,

I was told (and the guy was a real gent so I have no reason whatsoever to doubt him).

That when it was built a new clutch was fitted (not by him). But it as always been inoperative, any idea as to the likelihood that it will be a simple fix without the need to buy new?

The whole thing was built circa 5 years ago and as never moved since.


might be worth checking the pressure plate, thrust bearing and clutch arm





I love Pinto's, even if i did get mine from P&O!

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jacko

posted on 18/4/10 at 08:19 PM Reply With Quote
I remove the rad fit engine lift put a rope around the bell housing too hold the gear box up / unbolt the engine + starter and remove the engine .
Fit new clutch etc then re-fit in reverse
30 mins jobs a goodun

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Tipster69

posted on 18/4/10 at 08:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
[

might be worth checking the pressure plate, thrust bearing and clutch arm


Thanks for the advice.

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Tipster69

posted on 18/4/10 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I remove the rad fit engine lift put a rope around the bell housing too hold the gear box up / unbolt the engine + starter and remove the engine .
Fit new clutch etc then re-fit in reverse
30 mins jobs a goodun


Hi,

Thanks for the info.

It'll take me 30mins just to suss out how to remove the nose cone.

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Paul TigerB6

posted on 18/4/10 at 09:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by omega0684
whip the engine out (without gearbox)


You'll need an engine crane for that. This one should do it for the ole boat anchor....











[Edited on 18/4/10 by Paul TigerB6]

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dogwood

posted on 19/4/10 at 06:38 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tipster69

That when it was built a new clutch was fitted (not by him). But it as always been inoperative,


When you say "inoperative"
What exactly do you mean.
Does the pedal feel right?
Is it that the clutch wont engage,
or wont disingage?





FREE THE ROADSTER ONE…!!

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Tipster69

posted on 19/4/10 at 07:05 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dogwood

When you say "inoperative"
What exactly do you mean.
Does the pedal feel right?
Is it that the clutch wont engage,
or wont disingage?


The pedal depresses and returns "normally" (wouldn't say it felt 100% right). But pressing it has no effect, you cannot select a gear with the engine running.

Cheers

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zetec mike

posted on 19/4/10 at 08:01 AM Reply With Quote
Worth having a good look before taking it all out, might just be stuck. Has the car stood around a long time ? I'd jack it up and have a look where the release arm goes in whilst getting someone to push the pedal. you should be able to see whats happening.
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Tipster69

posted on 19/4/10 at 08:05 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zetec mike
Worth having a good look before taking it all out, might just be stuck. Has the car stood around a long time ? I'd jack it up and have a look where the release arm goes in whilst getting someone to push the pedal. you should be able to see whats happening.


Thanks for the advice, I will take a look first before jumping in.

Cheers

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Peteff

posted on 19/4/10 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
The friction plate may be stuck to the flywheel or fitted the wrong way round. You'll have to take it out to find out either way unless you raise the back end and run it then press the clutch while the wheels are spinning and brake hard which may unstick it.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Tipster69

posted on 19/4/10 at 10:38 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
The friction plate may be stuck to the flywheel or fitted the wrong way round. You'll have to take it out to find out either way unless you raise the back end and run it then press the clutch while the wheels are spinning and brake hard which may unstick it.


Hi,

Thanks for the info. I think im going to have to bite the bullet and take it out to have a look at it.

THANKS TO ALL of you for the info.

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