Kriss
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 12:15 PM |
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Bottom diff mount hole, should this be elongated?
When removing my diff for a rebuild (Big up to the Phil @ Road and race Transmission brap brap brap yacka yall!) my bottom diff mount with the thread
bar was very loose. Nylocks may be a bit knackered but they should have only been used once ever!
Anyway, when reinstalling, we noticed that the diff could pivot ont he top mount threaded bar, as the lower seemed to have larger holes int he chassis
mounts.
Any ideas or things to be carefull about here?
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stevegough
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 12:30 PM |
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The diff should not be able to swivel - neither hole should be elongated at all. Sounds like it has worn like this?
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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MikeR
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 12:38 PM |
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may explain the noise you got when going on / off the power.
The diff should be a nice tight solid fit and should not move. Possibly the nylocs were at the end of the thread and therefore tight - but nuts
weren't pulling the mounts tight. Potentially you need new diff mounts. If there like the haynes roadster you could just buy new mountings. If
they're welded on you potentially need new mounts welding on. Get some photos and post them on here. If possible measure the bolt you're
using and the hole (measure the hole in 3 or 4 places to prove its round and not deformed from round).
A bodge that is acceptable (others will need to confirm) would be to weld some 3mm thick washers onto the existing mounts with the right sized hole in
them. then tighten up the bolt onto the new welded in washers.
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 04:42 PM |
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Use shims (thin metal sheet with a hole to take up the space between the chassis and the diff, on both sides of the mount I think I used some thin
washers). On reassembly you will want a washer over the oval hole (and use new a nyloc).. This should be o.k if the hole is not too elongated. Never
worked out why the build manual does not specify shims here. On reasembly mark with a line of white paint on the bolt/diff so you can see if it moves
again.
Dan
[Edited on 19/11/10 by Bluemoon]
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Kriss
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 04:45 PM |
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the hoelf or the treaded bar at the bottom mount is larger than the bar.
i have done it up barstid tight and used nylocks and loctite. Have also marked the diff bolts with a marker line to detect movement
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James
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 04:48 PM |
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When you say threaded bar...
Are you using just normal studding or something rated 8.8 or higher?
Most threaded bar is basically made of cheese and is not really safe to use.
Cheers,
James
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MikeR
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 05:08 PM |
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i think we may have two issues here. Can you take the measurements i suggested and include the bolt / threaded bar + take some pictures. We'll
be able to 'see' the problem then and not risk getting confused over terminology.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 19/11/10 at 08:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
Most threaded bar is basically made of cheese and is not really safe to use.
Sounds like the nuts and bolts that B&Q sell, made from something resembling ripe brie.
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