WillisRR
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| posted on 14/8/13 at 02:58 PM |
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Noob Saying Hello
Hi Everyone! Been lurking around on here for a good while now and only just signed up with my own account.
So, where do I begin, I am now the very, VERY lucky owner of a pretty much brand new MK Indy RR factory built race car. Plans include to add number
plates so I can drive on road, rear diffuser and it is in great need of a proper LSD. Long term plans, being a Honda lover, I would really like to
F20C it on ITBs, but to be honest I enjoy spending my money on using the thing over constantly evolving it...
Weighing in at 585kg and 170bhp.
MK Indy RR Factory built race car
Fully rose jointed yellow spaceframe chassis
Full roll cage
Black fiberglass body
inboard protech dampers on push rods
Wide track
Engine bay venting
1.8 Zetec engine
Kent cams
Twin Webber 40 carbs
type 9 gearbox
Short shift kit
Omex stand alone ECU
3.9 Diff
Alloy rad
Oil cooler
Custom manifold and exhaust silencer
Catch can breather set up
Koso dash with logging and peak capabilities
water temp gauge
Long acre mirror
brake bias valve
external cut offs
fire extinguisher
snap off boss
270mm SPA suade wheel
Fiberglass bucket seat
Foam passenger seat
Sabelt 5 point 3" harnesses
race battery
Rain light
Compomotive CXR 13" wheels
Advan A048 185 front, 205 rear
Wet set up on Advan A032s
Willwood front brakes
Sierra rear disc brakes
drilled and grooved disks all round
Ferodo DS2500 pads all round
Braided lines
Fully corner weighted, geod and dampers valved and springs set up by ProComp.
[Edited on 14/8/13 by WillisRR]
[Edited on 15/8/13 by WillisRR]
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WillisRR
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| posted on 14/8/13 at 03:05 PM |
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And a few pics from Blyton last Wednesday! Bring on Cadwell early next month!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88buZc6rATU
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loggyboy
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| posted on 14/8/13 at 04:29 PM |
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That looks smart... sort of angy wasp colour scheme.
Good to see MK have straightened their front roll bar to just have one bend!!
Mistral Motorsport
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NigeEss
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| posted on 14/8/13 at 04:32 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by WillisRR
Plans include to add number plates so I can drive on road,
[Edited on 14/8/13 by WillisRR]
Hello and welcome,
A very well specced car, nice. I take it that it has passed IVA already ?
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 07:47 AM |
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Thanks  .
Unfortunately it will need IVA but it shouldn't be that tricky as it already has most of the work done to pass. At the moment I would just
rather spend my money on track time over anything else. Maybe over winter i will get it IVAd ready for spring 2014.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 08:25 AM |
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looks very sharp 
quote:
3.9 Cosworth Diff
just a minor thing: you didn't get a 3.9 ratio on any cossie  (they were all 3.64 or 3.62 ratio's)
but don't worry the cossie diffs are just the same as normal sierra LSD's anyway - but if add the cossie name you can put the price of the
parts up 
if you ever need to do anything to it there is a guide on here to working out what you've really got (they come in a handful of flavours across
all the models of sierra, granada, scorpio and cossie)
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 08:43 AM |
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Thanks for the info bud . I really am a complete noob when it comes to Fords. Always been a Honda man myself so this is all pretty new and confusing
when i am seeing 7 inch, 7.5 inch diffs etc and not knowing exactly what I have. All i know is, the diff doesn't lock, which is an issue for me
haha, spinning one wheel out of a corner just doesn't feel nice as i am sure you will agree. Will get a nice ATB in there pronto or at least a
Sierra LSD .
[Edited on 15/8/13 by WillisRR]
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nick205
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 08:57 AM |
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Smashing looking car you have their
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mcerd1
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 10:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by WillisRR
..... this is all pretty new and confusing when i am seeing 7 inch, 7.5 inch diffs etc and not knowing exactly what I have. All i know is, the diff
doesn't lock....
well it can't be a cossie one then - unless its dead, in which case they go back to open diff behavior (or from a late 24v scorpio - but they
are 3.64's)
when you get round to it have a wee look in the 'sticky' diff thread, but if you can't work out what you've got then post a
few pics of your diff and we'll point you in the right direction - you can do a lot of mix and match with ford axles but some combinations
don't go
at least you've got plenty of options with the ford diff (ford, quaife, gripper, tranx......) just depends on your wallet
[Edited on 15/8/2013 by mcerd1]
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 10:33 AM |
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This is the only picture i have of the diff>>
God knows could be 3.6 then haha! Speaking to Danny @MK who built the car and he remembers it having an LSD when it was built :s. A Quiafe ATB would
be very nice, will just have to see how many pennies i can scrape together! I went a bit mental on my last track toys and let them take over my
life/disposable income. I have learnt now to not let these machines take over and are far more enjoyable that way. Maybe i will just find a Ford LSD
for the time being but knowing which one would fit and mount up to my driveshafts is going to take a lil bit of reading up!
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loggyboy
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 10:48 AM |
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Push in shafts so must be a normal 7" open diff. Or if it has a LSD/ATB must be an aftermarket one.
Mistral Motorsport
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mcerd1
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 11:02 AM |
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^^ well I'm fairly sure thats a 7" diff with push-in driveshafts
so that would mean there is no possible way that its a ford LSD (the ford LSD's all have bolt-on driveshafts)
the ratio is easy enough - just mark the wheels and prop and count how many turns of prop you get for 1 complete turn of the wheels (3.92 and 3.62 are
the most likely ratio's)
this also means your rear brakes are most likely on adaptor brackets - as push-in driveshafts suit the drum braked hubs (which have different bearings
from the disc braked ones that use bolt-on shafts)
the disc brake hubs are easy to spot as they have the caliper mounting lugs as part of the casting like this:
linky
the chances are it uses the sierra solid disc type rear calipers and pads, but some conversion kits use different discs from the std. sierra rear
ones (I think some use slightly smaller fiesta front discs, but I'm not sure which and you'd need to check all the disc dimensions to work
that one out...)
this might not be a bad thing for you as sierra 253mm discs can struggle to fit under 13" wheels
unless you want to play around changing the whole back axle or at least making hybrid driveshafts - then an aftermarket LSD will be the way to go as
they suit the push-in shafts
I don't think there is anything wrong with your car, but its a bit cheeky telling you its got a cossie LSD...
sorry thats probably way way more than you wanted to know.... 
[Edited on 15/8/2013 by mcerd1]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 11:11 AM |
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Having said that, according to the 7thheaven site, there were LSDs available on 7" push in shafts.
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/Sierra_Rear_Differential
Mistral Motorsport
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mcerd1
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 11:21 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Having said that, according to the 7thheaven site, there were LSDs available on 7" push in shafts.
has anyone ever seen one though ?
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 11:29 AM |
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THANK YOU! The more information the better!
Yes, to save messing around with drive shafts etc it looks like i will be saving for a proper ATB, which really isn't a bad thing eh! I
don't think i was mislead though . Cheapest i have found a 7" Sierra ATB for is £658>>
http://www.motamec.com/ford-sierra-7-quaife-atb-helical-lsd-torque-differential.html
Great to know about the rear brake set up too as this would only catch me out when i come to replace them when these get worn out. I know we had some
problems when we came to refresh calipers/discs/pads on a friends Westy.
I still need to delve in and read up more on Carbs too, again it is just knowledge i thought i would never need so just don't know a lot about
them yet! Same reason i know bugger all about Lambo's and Farrari's, why fill my head with knowledge i will never need haha .
I do really like how you can get bell housing adapters for the Type9 box to F20C S2000 engine though. Should make it much more straight forward when i
tackle the swap!
More incentive to push the car harder/smoother through the bends and brake later with lower power at the moment over having 250hp on tap from day
one!
[Edited on 15/8/13 by WillisRR]
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mcerd1
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 12:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by WillisRR
I do really like how you can get bell housing adapters for the Type9 box to F20C S2000 engine though. Should make it much more straight forward when i
tackle the swap!
not seem those adapters before myself - sounds like a fast way to destroy a std. type 9
the std. 4cly type 9 is rated for about 145 ft.lbs / 145 bhp and sustained high rev's could be bit much for it too
the likes of BGH and others do uprated gear kits with stronger bearings, better oiling and better ratios (like a usable 1st and 5th, instead of a 3
speed with a crawler gear and a cruising gear)
most folk seam to stick with the S2000 box even though its a big beast as its stronger and has the right ratio's (although you may need a very
low ratio diff / small tyres to make the best use of it)
the ford duratec is a slightly easier swap, although its not 250bhp out of the box - you could always supercharge it if you wanted more power though
like Flak Monkey did linky
personally I quite like the 1.8 zetec (got a blacktop one in my tin-top) its a lively wee thing that likes to rev
...so basically you've got hundreds of options for more power if you want it later - but its probably better to wait till the car is on the road
before getting carried away
one little thing that could prove a PITA is the age of the engine for the IVA test (as its the engine age that sets your emissions limits)
if its not a pre-Aug 95 one then you may have to fit a CAT to get it through, and carb's + CAT isn't the best option
(assuming you get a Q plate, the MOT will be no issue - but you've got to get through the IVA first...)
[Edited on 15/8/2013 by mcerd1]
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 12:52 PM |
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Once Again thank you for the information, will just have to look out for a Quiafe sequential type9 then won't I (jokes).
I didn't know type9s where rated that low! Every days a school day . I guess that is because everyone seems to beef the internals up a bit. I
wonder if it will be a problem with the 170hp I have now, i would imagine not.
Yeah i am not going to lie, i wont be getting it ready for the IVA myself. Danny has quoted me a great price to get it all done, IVAd and taxed which
saves me the hassle and unavoidable retest costs, it's a no brainer for the money.
Yes, so many options my head starts to hurt, all way down the line yet though! ATB first, then IVA over winter, then more POWER!! It does make a great
noise with the 1.8 and it does go well I just get greedy!
[Edited on 15/8/13 by WillisRR]
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mcerd1
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 01:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by WillisRR
I didn't know type9s where rated that low! Every days a school day . I guess that is because everyone seems to beef the internals up a bit. I
wonder if it will be a problem with the 170hp I have now, i would imagine not.
I doubt you'll have any issues unless you go for a massive power boost - its the torque thats the big killer
also the gearbox gets a much easier life in a car as light as that
just keep in mind that they aren't the strongest when you go for your massive power upgrades later - besides its a good excuse for some better
ratio's
(the BGH boxes keep the helical gears and syncro, ideal for road cars: linky)
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 09:26 PM |
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So would i be correct in think i could mount a st170 bottom end on my 18 head?? Maybe an option for more power dor little money.
Just picked up the new (to me) mazda 6 tow barge .
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TimC
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 09:40 PM |
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Was that Adrian Chapman's car?
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WillisRR
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 09:59 PM |
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It was, any info on it please share .
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unijacko67
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| posted on 15/8/13 at 10:55 PM |
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Welcome, your car looks well sorted and ready to get some use. Regarding the LSD option, this may be worth thinking about. This is what's
happening with mine anyway. As these cars are so light and lots of the diffs need a certain amount of torque/grip to lock them and with less weight on
the rear than the donor car I simply cant make the diff work like it could if matched to the weight of my car. When I send it on out of a junction the
inner black line is thicker than the outer, but it still semi locks. I can alter the ramp angles in the diff to make them more shallow so it would
lock sooner (so I'm told) this would make it better for doing doughnuts' but may make it more likely to swap ends so I'm starting to
think with a very light car the LSD may not be as important. Having said that I've not tried it without the LSD and mine might be doing more
than I realise. Burn out starts leave two thick black lines, but if your car has been set up correctly on the scales to have equal corner weights this
should also be achieved with an open diff. Only my opinion and I am happy to be corrected. Cheers 
http://www.kittenkitcar.co.uk
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TimC
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| posted on 16/8/13 at 02:57 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by WillisRR
It was, any info on it please share .
I know that it was set-up by Dave at trackdevelopments.co.uk - that's about it.
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