john_p_b
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 posted on 3/8/05 at 03:14 PM |
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had to cancel SVA
big time pi$$ed off. took the car down this morning to get emmisions and headlights set etc. drove down there fine, pulled in the workshop, running
for about 10 minutes to set emmisions and "JOHN THERE'S WATER UNDER THE CAR" expansion tank had overflowed. got emmisions set, by
this time the temp guage is making a break for freedom, 90degrees and still rising so off with the hood try to get it cool.
cooled it off, topped it up drove it home, it's 1/4 of a mile at best from the garage to home, again in that time it's boiling up.
my dad followed me down in my van which i know the speedo is crack on, i made it i was averaging 18-20mph my dad said he was doing 35mph and i was
still pulling away.
radiator's back out and i'm scratching my head at the speedo.
not a happy bunny
on a plus side i did get to drive it for the 1st time today!!!
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donut
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| posted on 3/8/05 at 03:21 PM |
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What a bummer.
If it helps i had a similar problem where my car kept overheating and blowing it's water. it was the water temp sender unit that was at fault.
It was new but failed to work. Got it exchanged and all was well again.
Good luck getting it sorted.
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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john_p_b
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| posted on 3/8/05 at 03:39 PM |
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just got call back from sva centre, test is rebooked for the 22nd so i've got 2 and a half weeks to sort the bloody thing out!
just put a load of pics in the sva section if anyone would care to have a look and see if they can see anything wrong.
thank you please
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viatron
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| posted on 3/8/05 at 06:01 PM |
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Just had a simlar prob with my "Caterost" ended up i had loads of air still in the system, drove the front end up the ramp to the workshop
so it sat about a foot higher than the rear and refilled, 10 minutes later rock solid at 80 C with no fan!!!
Mac
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nanosleep
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| posted on 3/8/05 at 06:43 PM |
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When you startup and get the engine hot, does the radiator feel very hot? If yes then I would suspect you don't have enough air flow. If it
gets hot under idle you probably need more fan. If it gets hot going down the road then you need an air dam, ducts, etc, etc.
If the radiator is much cooler with respect to the engine (it may still feel quite hot), then I would suspect you don't have enough water flow.
It the thermostat stuck? Try running without a thermostat. (not permanently). If the open thermostat doesn't keep it cool you'll
probably want to devise a way to check the water flow amount. Can you open the radiator cap (when cool of course), crank the engine, and see flow?
Lots of flow or a little trickle?
HTH
-Andy
2000 Mustang GT
2003 Mustang Cobra 450RWHP/450RWTQ
2004 ZX-10R
In progress: 67 Mustang with 520ci(8.6L) V8, 600HP estimated
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Dusty
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| posted on 3/8/05 at 09:19 PM |
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Is the thermostat in the right way round. Bulb and spring gubbins toward the head. Pinto stat housing will take it the wrong way round. Another
possibility is running with the heater pipe, from the inlet manifold through the heater and back to the pump, disconected. If you don't have a
heater run a bypass pipe, manifold to pump. It is important for cooling before the stat opens.
[Edited on 3/8/05 by Dusty]
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john_p_b
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| posted on 4/8/05 at 05:00 PM |
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dusty, i think you hit the nail right on the head there. i don't have a heater (i'm not a girl!) so all i've done is blank the ports
off. currently in the process of fitting a bypass pipe!
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nanosleep
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| posted on 4/8/05 at 09:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dusty
Is the thermostat in the right way round. Bulb and spring gubbins toward the head. Pinto stat housing will take it the wrong way round. Another
possibility is running with the heater pipe, from the inlet manifold through the heater and back to the pump, disconected. If you don't have a
heater run a bypass pipe, manifold to pump. It is important for cooling before the stat opens.
[Edited on 3/8/05 by Dusty]
Most thermostats I've seen have a little 'leak' hole (2mm maybe). This lets a little flow happen in the engine. Otherwise the
water at the thermostat could be cold while the water deep in the engine is boiling.
As Dusty said, try the heater pipe bypass first. This should be much easier than getting to the thermostat.
-Andy
2000 Mustang GT
2003 Mustang Cobra 450RWHP/450RWTQ
2004 ZX-10R
In progress: 67 Mustang with 520ci(8.6L) V8, 600HP estimated
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john_p_b
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| posted on 5/8/05 at 05:01 PM |
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it's looking promising, the thermostat i took out last night and is about as random as it could get, tested it and it was opening as and when it
felt like it. so that went straight in the bin.
ran the heater bypass pipe today (or rather my dad did) had it running for 25-30 minutes, temp got up to a steady 85-90 which i don't feel is
unreasonable for a 7type car running a engine with a cooling system half the size it was designed for!
thank you please
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