jabbahutt
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 posted on 20/3/07 at 02:01 PM |
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removeable side panels
Hi
Before commiting to fastening on my side panels with adhesive/rivets has anyone fitted their side panels sothey're removeable?
The main reason for this train of thought is several times I've needed to go back in to tweek/sort something out which has been made much easier
and less stressful by being able to work through the sides of the car such as the alternator.
If anyone has done this and wouldn't mind passing on what sort of fastners they used and where they attached the panels etc I'd be
grateful.
Cheers
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coozer
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 02:07 PM |
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I drilled 4mm holes as you would using ritets and tapped them M5. Sorted.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 02:14 PM |
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forgive my ignorance but do you mean used M5 self tappers or tapped a thread into the chassis?
If the latter is there enough meat in the wall of the chassis rails to put a thread in?
Thanks
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westcost1
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 02:24 PM |
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Bonding and riveting the panels on will add a lot of strength and rigidity to the car chasse in my opinion this out ways having to work around them
and getting to parts that can be accessed form elsewhere. I have the panels and then the fiberglass westy body tub bonded and riveted on and haven’t
found access to be much of a problem.
[Edited on 20/3/07 by westcost1]
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 02:29 PM |
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True, but the side pannels around the engine bay don't add that much strength as they are not streached between chassis rails, but have a
fold/bend of ~90 degrees at the bottom..
In anycase if you use sufficent bolts with tapped/rivenuted holes (not self tappers) it should add as much strength as the rivets would have...
I wondered about this myself, but so far have ended up with one pannel from front to back of car, to keep it clean looking without a join..
As to tapping M5 holes, in theory you need at least the 1.5 x diameter of bolt, but in practice you may get away with a lot less I would try a test
peice out.. M4 might be better? If you used M4 you could always dill out to M5 and rivet it if it does not work out, or even change to M4 rivnuts..
Just worked out you are talking about GRP pannels I guess not Ali? In which case you probably don't use the GRP as a stressed member.. Makes it
diffucult as well as you have one large panel..
Dan
[Edited on 20/3/07 by Bluemoon]
[Edited on 20/3/07 by Bluemoon]
[Edited on 20/3/07 by Bluemoon]
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westcost1
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 02:48 PM |
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Just worked out you are talking about GRP pannels I guess not Ali? In which case you probably don't use the GRP as a stressed member.. Makes it
diffucult as well as you have one large panel..
i was wondering this ^^^^ i have aluminum panels down the sides of the cockpit then the fiberglass over the top.
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