beer monster
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| posted on 1/2/11 at 08:44 PM |
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indy set up
looking for bit of advice.got standard chassis mk with 919 fireblade lump.have done a few track days at brands and i keep getting overtaken by various
caterams etc.prob me being a crap driver.the mk doesnt seem to handle as well as others.seems a bit vague on turn in and if i push it to much round
corners the back wants to step out.i set it up as per mk's figures but this was also to get it through sva for steering self centering etc.are
there geo figures more suited for track day cars?if so anyone know what they are?also what tyre pressures do people run?final question anyone know a
company that does rolling road / suspension set up in kent area that deals with bec's.
many thanks
marc
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whitestu
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| posted on 1/2/11 at 09:17 PM |
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What tyres are you running? If you are on road tyres and others on track tyres there will be a huge difference.
Stu
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adithorp
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| posted on 1/2/11 at 09:29 PM |
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Also what size tyres? What spring rates? Has it been corner weighted?...
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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beer monster
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| posted on 1/2/11 at 09:30 PM |
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yep true running 15" yoko parada 2 prob not the best?should go for toyo r888?
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beer monster
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| posted on 1/2/11 at 09:33 PM |
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not been corner weighted and running standard protechs supplied by mk.
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jack_t
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| posted on 1/2/11 at 10:36 PM |
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front
20psi
1.5 camber
track 1 degree toe in
as much caster as possible
rotate knob on shock fully clockwise then 8 clicks back
rear
20psi
1 degree camber
rotate knob on shock fully clockwise then 6 clicks back
thats what i run i get a bit of understeer if i push on alot on a round about
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procomp
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 11:48 AM |
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Hi
The above settings will be of no use as they are to far out to take account of the positive camber gain during cornering when on a track which is the
Indy's big problem both front and rear.
The only real answer is to have the car assessed as an individual case due to the lack of tolerances during manufacture. Camber setting from one to
another will vary widely to give the correct amount during cornering and also the castor or lack of will dictate whats needed to compensate with
camber and toe settings at the front. Also dampers you can not just take someone else's settings and say that works as no two sets of dampers
will be the same not to mention spring rates being correct or not.
Ultimately you can improve the handling on the car but it will be quite far from something like the settings on a Westfield Etc and will be nervous on
the road. So a compromise is needed if using for track and road.
Cheers Matt
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Hellfire
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 12:19 PM |
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I'm more concerned that if you haven't changed the set-up since IVA, then you probably have the front wheels toed out to help self-centre?
If so, the first thing you need to do is get the front wheel tracking sorted out, before taking it anywhere for a proper set-up (assuming you'll
be driving there).
Phil
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A1
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 12:51 PM |
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I always say, get everything set really neutrally, then adjust it to suit your driving style after. You might find you have a large thrust angle, I
did with the standard wishbones, thisll make the rear step out. as said you cant just take one lot of settings and use them, for instance mine are way
different to any mentioned so far.
do get r888s though, theyll make a huge difference.
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Frosty
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 01:03 PM |
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My advice to you would be to not take figures and values from anyone (with the exception of tyre pressures), for the reasons that procomp has
outlined.
What works on one car may be very poor on another due to differences in the chassis from car to car.
Ignore corner weighting - that's the very last thing you will want to do. Lots of work to be done before that.
Personally I would start with the ride height. Disconnect the damper and then jack the wheel up. Look at what the camber is doing through the range of
wishbone movement, and set the car to a point where the camber is working in your favour (i.e. not moving towards positive). Where this point is
varies from car to car, so you'll have to work with it a bit.
Then camber can be optimised. Start with a base setting, go out on track, and then come in and see what the temperatures are like on the outside and
inside of the tyres. This will give you a good indication of what you need to change. You will need to borrow a pyrometer to do it.
Toe settings are a personal preference. Even so, they have to be accurate (by that I mean the same both sides). The rear of the Indy is not
adjustable, but there are ways to get around it. With the toe settings off, the car will feel very nervous.
If in doubt though, go and see someone who knows the car and its flaws. They will help you work around them and give you a package which works.
It will be well worth your time and money to go and see procomp.
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YQUSTA
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 01:51 PM |
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My advice would be ring ProComp they will give you a full setup as you want it.
Well worth the imo small cost for the work they do.
"If in doubt flat out"
Colin McRae
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James
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 02:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by YQUSTA
My advice would be ring ProComp they will give you a full setup as you want it.
Well worth the imo small cost for the work they do.
Agreed.
Hicost had his Locost up there for a full-setup and was really impressed with the work they did.
Search his posts, he wrote a report about it somewhere.
Cheers,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Davegtst
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 06:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi
The above settings will be of no use as they are to far out to take account of the positive camber gain during cornering when on a track which is the
Indy's big problem both front and rear.
The only real answer is to have the car assessed as an individual case due to the lack of tolerances during manufacture. Camber setting from one to
another will vary widely to give the correct amount during cornering and also the castor or lack of will dictate whats needed to compensate with
camber and toe settings at the front. Also dampers you can not just take someone else's settings and say that works as no two sets of dampers
will be the same not to mention spring rates being correct or not.
Ultimately you can improve the handling on the car but it will be quite far from something like the settings on a Westfield Etc and will be nervous on
the road. So a compromise is needed if using for track and road.
Cheers Matt
Hi Matt. What sort of cost would we be looking to set up an Indy. Mine isn't finished yet but as you say the tolerances on the rear wishbone
mounts aren't great.
[Edited on 2/2/11 by Davegtst]
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procomp
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| posted on 2/2/11 at 08:45 PM |
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Hi
STD charge is £200 for the full day full setup inc dampers dyno tested and balanced. The rear end is a pain as it varies wildley from one to another.
But it is possible with shimming Etc to get a decent toe setting and thrust alighnment setup it just takes time.
Cheers Matt
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Davegtst
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| posted on 3/2/11 at 09:58 PM |
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Thanks, i'll look you up when it's on the road.
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beer monster
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| posted on 5/2/11 at 12:38 PM |
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agreed.sounds like i will take a trip up there.prob silly queston but what does dyno tested mean?and matt do you also have rolling road?and how much
would a session cost?
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Davegtst
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| posted on 5/2/11 at 01:17 PM |
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Have a look here. All is explained.
http://www.procomp.co.uk/locostracing.html
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