whitestu
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 03:24 PM |
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Indy damper and tyre settings
I had my first proper drive today and wanted to get some opinion on a good starting point for damper settings.
At present I have the adjusters screwed 6 clicks in from fully anti clockwise position.
Tyre pressures are about 20 psi all round.
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ruskino80
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 03:35 PM |
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currently running 12 psi front-18 rear-still playing with rear pressures due to new tyres and trying to find the best setting
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ReMan
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 05:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ruskino80
currently running 12 psi front-18 rear-still playing with rear pressures due to new tyres and trying to find the best setting
Wow 12lbs thats low, was it reccomended to you?
Trying to get my Indyblade set up,too, it's graet on a smooth track now, but on the road its still a bit shit!
Feels a bit nervous and wanders a bit too , though I'm going into toe in now, I reckon 0, toe in / out is about right?
Mines set at 17lbs all round with 6 clicks.
Set at 110mm from floor at front, 130 rear. That made a lot of difference when I did it
Colin
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ruskino80
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 05:32 PM |
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thats where my fronts need to be feels perfect at the front-30 months use and tread is still perfect nearly as new!!!
my back feels less good at present,hate new tyres,car just feels wrong,will keep fiddling and hopefully get it.
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skydivepaul
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 06:58 PM |
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I run 16.5 psi on all tyres.
As you have a CVH engine i would suggest about 18 to 20 psi.
damper settings are a bit of trial and error.
8 at the front
6 at the rear for road use.
full clicks all round less one click for track use.
geometry set up also makes a big difference. I hope to do some extensive testing and suspension changes over the winter months and i will post my
results both good and bad
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ReMan
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 07:49 PM |
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I have been reading,
"How to build and modify suspension and brakes" by Des Hammill
A basic point in here that concerns me
is that for the type of suspension design used on the Indy you should be aiming to get the front lower wishbone pivot points - i.e. centreline of the
wishbone pivot bolts and/or centreline of ball joints - an equal distance from the ground. Think of an imaginary line between the inner and outer
pivot point centrelines and this line should be parallel to the ground. In this way the effects of the suspension's bump and droop are
minimised.
With my current ride height I recon I'm about 20mm too low to achieve this and to raise it would bring the body up to a silly riode height, I
wonder if this has to do with running 15" wheels and the Indy geometry is more suited to 13's?
What about your's guys?
(Sorry for plagerising some of this text from an old post!!)
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skydivepaul
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 08:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
I have been reading,
"How to build and modify suspension and brakes" by Des Hammill
A basic point in here that concerns me
is that for the type of suspension design used on the Indy you should be aiming to get the front lower wishbone pivot points - i.e. centreline of the
wishbone pivot bolts and/or centreline of ball joints - an equal distance from the ground. Think of an imaginary line between the inner and outer
pivot point centrelines and this line should be parallel to the ground. In this way the effects of the suspension's bump and droop are
minimised.
With my current ride height I recon I'm about 20mm too low to achieve this and to raise it would bring the body up to a silly riode height, I
wonder if this has to do with running 15" wheels and the Indy geometry is more suited to 13's?
What about your's guys?
(Sorry for plagerising some of this text from an old post!!)
I am also reading through the book and the indy suspension looks as though it doesnt have the amount of adjustment required to get the necessary
geometry. as per my previous post i will be having a play with the settings so i will let you know. 13" wheels could be an option, has anyone
fitted them to an indy and did it make a difference.
http://www.smartideasuk.com
http://www.smartmapping.co.uk
HD CCTV
3D design solutions and integration
IP security systems
access control systems
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whitestu
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 08:21 PM |
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quote:
Set at 110mm from floor at front, 130 rear. That made a lot of difference when I did it
At present my ride height is set to make sure the lights are at the correct height for the SVA, so probably not optimised for handling!
It'll be the next job on my list after fitting the Westfield gearbox mount.
Thanks
Stu
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 15/10/06 at 08:41 PM |
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What size of tyre are you running.
if a 50 profile would reccomend 16-18 psi for normal road use.
and if you get on track raise to around 22psi.
had this on several cars and was good recommended by a caterham race team so i trust there judgement.
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greggors84
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| posted on 16/10/06 at 12:30 AM |
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When people are saying 6 clicks, where is that from? I would take it as fully wound in (clockwise) then 6 clicks anti clockwise. As thats how we set
the dampers up on the cars at work. But stu said 6 clicks from anticlockwise at the beginning.
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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whitestu
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| posted on 16/10/06 at 07:38 AM |
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quote:
When people are saying 6 clicks, where is that from? I would take it as fully wound in (clockwise) then 6 clicks anti clockwise. As thats how we set
the dampers up on the cars at work. But stu said 6 clicks from anticlockwise at the beginning.
I was starting from fully anticlock position, but for no particular reason.
Having said that I think six clicks from either end of the scale on the Protech shocks is about in the middle.
Stu
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greggors84
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| posted on 16/10/06 at 01:22 PM |
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Cheers for that stu, I thought it may be in the middle somewhere.
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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