Peteff
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 12:29 PM |
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By ADD
quote:
If you are talking about the lowcost, low-weight aspect of it then I am afriad that is all lost on me!.
say no more then. 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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James
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 03:31 PM |
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Adam,
Good on you for trying something different and good luck in getting it going!!!
Firstly, bite the bullet and chop the sump, if worst comes to the worst use your current one as a template and fabricate a new one. I'd
recommend you braize rather than MIG as you'll fill the holes better! 
Dry sumping would be good but I don't think there's a cheap way of doing it is there? Not and have it being reliable.
What about sourcing a compatible shallower sump from another capacity engine?
You can afford to lose some capacity when you chop... or cheat and remote mount the filter to add capacity back in!
As for the top end, what about pulling off the induction system and fitting bike throttle boddies or chopping down the current one?
I've added 1" extra into my chassis with an extra rail round the top, it's effective and easy but a bit ugly! You can drill the
extra rails to lighten or use ali maybe? It makes the nose cone end of things a bit harder though.
Also, the GTS bodywork is about 0.75" taller than standard Locost stuff too so you may be able to use this to get more height still.
Hope that all helps, keep us updated
Cheers,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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physician
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 01:17 AM |
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i was about to suggest puting megasquirt on 6 throttle bodies and letting them stick out of the bonnet. vintage race car style
may even look cool
+ shortening the sump, low cost style
just keep tennis balls in the boot to put on the velocity stacks when you ^park the car 
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physician
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 01:38 AM |
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even better
or you can just get another engine.. simpler and maybe cheaper
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ADD
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 08:32 AM |
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Thanks guys, I raised the chasis last night to see what it would look like. I will post some pics tonight, but it seems a lot better. Interestingly my
engine is 27" high - only 3 inches taller than a zetec.
I will be doing the sump at some point, but looking at the bottom of the gearbox this will only give me an inch extra.
I do fancy the idea of having six trumpets pointing skyward, looks uber cool. However that will have to be a modify when complete kind of job. Funds
cant afford 2 sets of triumph throttle bodies.
You are right James I did fancy something a little different.
Adam
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Piledhigher
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 11:40 AM |
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V8
Adam,
I am going the V8 route (US builder). I am using a Lincoln (Jaguar) 3.9/4.0 L alloy engine (for weight). It is only 24" tall.
Attached is a picture of the engine.
Cory
Atlanta, GA
 
Rescued attachment Photo_071806_001.jpg
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kb58
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 03:00 PM |
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What does it weigh?
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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Piledhigher
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 03:42 PM |
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engine wt
I have not weighed my engine but specs from the web indicate 441 lbs "fully dressed" (intake, exhaust man., and accessories). Remove the
PS pump and AC compressor, you get 400 lbs and 290 hp with the V8 noise, this is what got my attention. The supercharged Jaguar version puts out
close to 400 hp.
Cory
[Edited on 21/7/06 by Piledhigher]
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Lawnmower
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 03:56 PM |
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How unfeasable would it be to remount that beast in the back of the car, ie build a middy!
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violentblue
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 04:39 PM |
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that would be cool running 2 sets of bike carbs (ballance tubes between opposing runners) or 2 sets of throttlebodies.
very nice looking engine
[Edited on 21/7/06 by violentblue]
a few pics of my other projects
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Piledhigher
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 05:42 PM |
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violentblue,
You have read my mind.
Cory
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ADD
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 10:04 PM |
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Piccies as promised
Chassis raised 1 1/2"
 
drivers view
This is the view from the drivers seat, the top of the uppermost sight glass is about eye level
 
nose cone fit
This is how the nose cone lines up at the mo
[img][/img]
All coments welcome as always
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leto
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 06:09 AM |
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I agree with James, as most times 
An inch or two on the sump and you are pretty much home. The engine isn't that tall, I believe it looks worse than it is because it's so
wide at the top. If you make your own plenum it won't do much on the hight but you can take some of the width and get the intake at the back.
Cheers!
“I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)
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Peteff
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 09:35 AM |
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Is that a Tiger nosecone designed for a Pinto engine? I still think you would be better changing the style of the car to suit the engine. Redesign the
bodywork to look something like the old racecar style of the Bugattis from the 20's with a taller nosecone and a higher bonnet but with the
wheels, brakes and suspension brought up to date, that would be different.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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leto
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 05:29 PM |
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As you mentioned it, it just so happens that I'm planing to use a tall engine too.
 
con2
Might change the front to a cut down Ford '34.
“I'm gonna ride around in style
I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)
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Krismc
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| posted on 23/7/06 at 09:13 AM |
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Right just read that whole post after only just seeing it, today. I would say dont worry, it will probably fit- no bother!
I had similar problems as the vortx is quite a low tight chassis as it generally has bike engines in it but when i fitted my zetec lump the engine
first stuck 12-13 inchs above the top chassis rail - and the sump stuck well below! what about yours?? from the pics yours looks around 14-15 inches
or a little more- which in my car would be 3-4 inch buldge.
but
Ive had the sump shortened and moved the engine down now it only sticks out 10 1/2 inches and fits snugg under the bonnet. I think from the picture
your engine just looks bulky and will fit in the end if you get your sump shortend and fit you engine out the bottom of the chassis a little- just
make a sump guard to be safe
this is mine fitted......
yea its not as wide- but its height we are talking about here?
whats your height??
[Edited on 23/7/06 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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ADD
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| posted on 3/8/06 at 08:18 PM |
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I bit the bullet and did as I was told and had my sump shortened. Its now about 1 1/4" shorter than it was.
 
sump 2
 
sump 1
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NS Dev
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 11:52 AM |
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very nice job!
One concern I have (and I'm not trying to p*** on your chips here) is that the type 9 box will last all of ten seconds behind that engine!!!!
You need to get an MT75 box in there now before you do too much more chassis work as the mt75 is bulkier though shorter.
You will be ok with the type 9 as long as you put a gearkit in it, but that will be £700 or so, whereas sticking together a "converted"
MT75 will be £100 ish.
You need an XR4x4 MT75 box and a 2.0 dohc sierra/granada MT75 2wd box. Remove the front casing from the 4x4 box and bolt it onto the rear half/cluster
from the 2wd box, job done. You use std XR4x4 2.9 clutch bits.
Hopefully I'm not too late with this advice, but I know of several people that have attempted to do exactly what you have done (in other cars)
and their type 9's lasted a matter of days (1 day in fact in one case, one standing start smashed it completely!)
That cossie v6 is a torquey blighter!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 9/8/06 at 12:12 PM |
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i'd add an extra inch tothe top rails of teh chassis (or build it int he first place with 1x2" tube round the top like adamr is to
accomodate his rv8) or scrap the nosecone and buy luego velocity grp which is 2" taller than book/lowline stuff.
Also see if there's anything you can trim from teh rocker cover or ancillaries you can relocate as appropriate.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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se7ensport
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| posted on 11/8/06 at 06:39 PM |
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I had the 2.8 version in a dutton 7 style car without a sump chop or bonnet bulg, granted the sides are slightly taller than a book 7 but you
shouldn't have too much trouble getting the body work to fit.
My only comment would be that you are going to need some seriously wide/good quality rubber to put the power down, I had 8in rims on the back with 245
tyres and they would easily spin with a little right foot provocation in all gears and I only had the 2.8 with twin choke weber!
Best of luck to you!
Alex
 
Description
[Edited on 11/8/06 by se7ensport]
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ADD
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| posted on 11/8/06 at 07:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport
I had the 2.8 version in a dutton 7 style car without a sump chop or bonnet bulg, granted the sides are slightly taller than a book 7 but you
shouldn't have too much trouble getting the body work to fit.
My only comment would be that you are going to need some seriously wide/good quality rubber to put the power down, I had 8in rims on the back with 245
tyres and they would easily spin with a little right foot provocation in all gears and I only had the 2.8 with twin choke weber!
Best of luck to you!
Alex
Description
[Edited on 11/8/06 by se7ensport]
Awsome.
[Edited on 11/8/06 by ADD]
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