ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 1/12/07 at 10:39 PM |
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Looking at the official liner retaining clamps you can buy I think Ive answered my own question. They only clamp the liner at one point, not all the
way around, so it can't be uber critical to clamp them back down properly. I suspect the weight of the head itself would be sufficient, but
I'll bolt it down in a couple of places to be sure.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/12/07 at 11:16 AM |
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Generally the liners are unlikely to move if you turn the crank a little --- might be different on a new tight engine or an engine that had been
lying up for a while.
The Ford Freelander gasket also has wider fire rings and so requires a bit extra care when cleaning the tops of the liners before fitiing.
I generally check the engine is mid-stroke using a long plastic rod (made from an old coat hanger) that I "poke" down the plug holes.
As long as the head bolts screw down into the block enough to clamp the head and have no visible damage they will be OK to reuse. Although there is a
limit to the number of times the bolts can be reused the increase in ammount of plastic range strain added when re-using the bolts is tiny compared
to the original tightening.
[Edited on 2/12/07 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 10/12/07 at 06:33 PM |
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Many thanks for the help chaps, particularly BritishTrident. I went down again this weekend after BOL got the head reconditioned at a place in
Fareham, cost £275 for a mild skim, 8 new exhaust valves, 2 new guides, all the valve stem seals and the VVC belt changing / setting back up which I
didnt think was bad.
It all went back together reasonably straightforwardly, although the camblet covers are a pig to do in a cramped garage with poor light, and a few
other bits had to come off in order to get everything back on again so it took longer than I anticipated.
The only real pain was the bleeding of the cooling system, it initially took about 2.5L (requires nearly 6L) but then steadfastly refused to drop any
further. This puzzled us for about 20 minutes until we realised the bleed screw hole was gunged up, so even though the screw had been removed, no air
could escape through the bleed!
After that it still didnt seem to want to bleed through very well but we eventually got there and so far so good, its been on a 20 mile round trip so
far with no issues so fingers crossed it all holds together!
cheers
Chris
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adithorp
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| posted on 10/12/07 at 09:33 PM |
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Chris, there's nothing unusual about having trouble bleeding the K series. Not had one bleed easy yet and I've done dozens of them and
tried loads of things with no real improvement. I'm waiting with baited breath for British Trident to explain what i'm missing!
adrian
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britishtrident
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| posted on 11/12/07 at 12:57 PM |
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Yes both bleed holes can get gummed up particularlt the bleed hose at the manifold..
Car filled with the later pink/orange HOT longlife coolant tend to be less prone than thos with blue-green antifreeze.
A while back I adapted a pump up garden prayer into a cooling system filler pressure tester.
The additional parts I used were an old air line tyre pressure guage, a section of white nylon "T" and straight connectors bought from
B&Q and a spare bit of small bore hose from the scrappies.
Using this I can Tee into the system and pump the coolant in under pressue so the system can be bled while cold.
The guage is really an extra to test the raddiator pressure cap is working and can be used with the hose to the pressure bottle nipped closed to check
for slow leaks.
If building another one I would use a spray with a built in pressure gauge.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 11/12/07 at 06:35 PM |
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"both" bleed screws? 
We could only find one on his 200 Coupe, in the bottom hose steel tube section coming over the flywheel area. I could only find mention of a secondary
one on the heater input of mid engined cars, presumably because it runs to the front of the car?
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adithorp
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| posted on 11/12/07 at 07:52 PM |
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I think the second bleed BT is talking about is the pipe on the end of the inlet manifold returning to the expantion bottle.
adrian
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 11/12/07 at 07:58 PM |
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Could be one in the heater hose at the highest point?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 11/12/07 at 08:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
I think the second bleed BT is talking about is the pipe on the end of the inlet manifold returning to the expantion bottle.
adrian
Ah OK we never took that off during bleeding, might be worth checking that too to make sure.
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/12/07 at 08:29 PM |
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It has a little ball bearing valve in it. Bleeding is easier if this "falls out" when the manifold is off. You do get circulation through
the header after though!
If you don't get water out when you take the pipe off, give it a poke with a bit of wire/thin screw driver; they get gummed up.
adrian
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