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Author: Subject: Build cost
procomp

posted on 17/12/07 at 09:09 AM Reply With Quote
" It isn't a problem on the road though"

Until you drive a car that dose Handel and dose have the correct Castor to provide self centering.

Then you realise what you are missing .

Cheers Matt






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tim windmill

posted on 17/12/07 at 10:05 AM Reply With Quote
speaking from experience having built 3 mk indy's £6K will allow you to build a very nice indy with some nice bits, a lot depends on how much you can do yourself and if your prepared to use second hand parts.
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bassett

posted on 17/12/07 at 12:13 PM Reply With Quote
If you were considering an MNR myself and my dad bought one with an R1 engine having bought the complete kit from them and it came in at £8k. Not the cheapest way to do it so im sure you could build one for less, sourcing your own donor car, engine and other bits.

[Edited on 17/12/07 by bassett]

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Mark G

posted on 17/12/07 at 08:18 PM Reply With Quote
Well I'm a mechanic by trade so won't be needing any outside help. I'm obviously not counting any labour costs to do the build, just parts.

I don't mind using second hand / used parts as long as they are in good condition and won't look bad when fitted. I'm hoping that not only will the car go like stink, but look the nuts doing it.






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Mark G

posted on 17/12/07 at 10:51 PM Reply With Quote
I've just spent the last hour trying to add up all of the cost I'll incure during the build.

It comes to just over £6500 but thats going on MK's prices for a lot of stuff that I think I may be able to get cheaper elsewhere.






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Hellfire

posted on 18/12/07 at 12:52 PM Reply With Quote
Add another 15% and you might be somewhere near.

I'm not suggesting your budget is incorrect but you'd be amazed at how much things like switches, electrical connections, nuts and bolts etc and all the other miscellaneous stuff actually increases your costs.

Phil






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Mark G

posted on 18/12/07 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
I was thinking about that.

This is starting to get expensive. The problem is where most of the cost lies. I want a bike engine, so thats an extra grand. I want a full cage, so thats an extra £500. I want to do it right so thats a lot of money.

What started out as something to do which I've always wanted to do, now is turning into something that I will just always want to do.






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onzarob

posted on 18/12/07 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark G
What started out as something to do which I've always wanted to do, now is turning into something that I will just always want to do.


I think you need to remeber the lowcost aspect. use a 1600 or 2.0l pinto. and go for the upgrades later when funds allow. its kit car, you can change it as much and often as you like

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martyn_16v

posted on 18/12/07 at 11:15 PM Reply With Quote
Or failing that, as long as you've got the space you could just do it fairly slowly. A bit here and there as funds allow makes it easier than slashing out in a short space of time...






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Hellfire

posted on 19/12/07 at 07:33 AM Reply With Quote
You need to compromise somewhere on the build. Get the bike engine and the full cage but shop around and buy wisely on other expensive items such as wheels, brakes etc and you should be able to build it on the budget you have. You can (and will ) upgrade stuff when you've completed your build and funds become available.

Don't let it put you off building, just buy wisely.

Phil






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Mark G

posted on 19/12/07 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
If it wasn't for the fact that I cant get an engine assembly for less than £1200 I'd do it.

I just know that if I put a car engine in I'd never bother to put a bike engine in after, besides its the bike engine part of the kit that I'm most looking forward to.

AAARRRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!






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Paul TigerB6

posted on 19/12/07 at 10:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark G
If it wasn't for the fact that I cant get an engine assembly for less than £1200 I'd do it.



That seems seriously expensive for a blade engine!! Where have you been looking?? I am looking at a 2007 ZX10R engine with all running gear for around £1500 and wouldnt expect a blade to be much more that £500 or so. I sold a ZX9R engine with running gear for £350 earlier this year myself (to a LocostBuilder who can name himself if he wants to) and would only expect to pay around £800 for a carbed R1.

Keep looking - you will get there. Just make sure you get everything you need with an engine kit including clocks to keep the cost down

Fireblade with electrics

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Mark G

posted on 19/12/07 at 11:35 PM Reply With Quote
What else would I need to go with that apart from carbs and clocks?






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Paul TigerB6

posted on 19/12/07 at 11:36 PM Reply With Quote
you have U2U Mark
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RK

posted on 20/12/07 at 03:11 AM Reply With Quote
Being a mechanic is almost necessary in my opinion, but it sort of depends on where you live.

Abandoned project from a well known maker? Second hand MNR that you can rebuild? Might be more prudent from a purely financial point of view.

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Mark G

posted on 20/12/07 at 09:05 PM Reply With Quote
Well, Good news!

I've just agreed to buy a Blade engine which comes with ECU, carbs, geny and starter! I'm picking it up on Sunday!

The project is GO!!!



[Edited on 20/12/07 by Mark G]






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Mark G

posted on 20/12/07 at 11:14 PM Reply With Quote
Does anyone know what the following items are and can they be fabricated easily? I don't really know what they are and they're gonna cost me £175 from MK if I need them.

Adaptor flange (Bike engine) - £70
Engine mounting cradle (fireblade) - £105

At a guess the mounting cradle has all the right mounts for the engine. but whats the flange?






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bigrich

posted on 20/12/07 at 11:18 PM Reply With Quote
the adaptor flange replaces the gear box sprocket so the prop will bolt to the engine.
I would have thought the cradle would be part of the chassis kit for a bike engined car and not an add on







A pint for the gent and a white wine/fruit based drink for the lady. Those are the rules

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Mark G

posted on 20/12/07 at 11:23 PM Reply With Quote
I see, Thanks.






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RichieW

posted on 20/12/07 at 11:36 PM Reply With Quote
Congrats for taking the plunge, you wont regret it.

I know nowt about BECs so cant help you with your queries though...

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mad gaz
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Building: indy blade built indy spec r ,another indy r busa

posted on 21/12/07 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
build costs

hi mark i built the car you picture the total cost including roll cage fitted later by MK was 7500
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mad gaz
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Building: indy blade built indy spec r ,another indy r busa

posted on 21/12/07 at 07:11 PM Reply With Quote
forgot to add cost of viper stripes and stickers dont try doing them yourself was 200
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Paul TigerB6

posted on 21/12/07 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
Dont mess about with things like the adaptor flange / propshaft unless you are a professional - the consequences of these letting go dont bear thinking about. Anyway, for your propshaft adaptor you can get them for £55 delivered from here.....

Prop adaptor linky

So are you getting all the electrics / loom for your engine then Mark or sourcing these seperately??

Editted to add - may as well get the proper 12.9 spec bolts too for the extra £2 unless you already have these.

[Edited on 21/12/07 by Paul TigerB6]

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roadrunner

posted on 21/12/07 at 08:07 PM Reply With Quote
£350 , cough, £400, cough.






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Paul TigerB6

posted on 21/12/07 at 08:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
£350 , cough, £400, cough.


Oops my mistake - i must have sold it far too expensive then!! Hows it going anyway Brad??

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