MikeFellows
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:11 AM |
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Required Sierra Parts
Hi,
My Sierra arrives later today and i plan to strip all the parts out this weekend then get rid of the sierra on Monday (before the misses goes crazy
about a sierra on the drive).
can anyone confirm I have all the correct parts please (oh and any tips would be greatly appreciated)
1. Diff with bolts if possible
2. Half Shafts with retaining clips if possible
3. Prop shaft with bolts if possible
4. Master Cylinder
5. Front Hubs
6. Rear Hubs + Calipers
7. Hand brake + Cover
8. Steering Rack (non power steering)
9. Steering column
10. Steering U/J & Linkage
11. Steering Wheel + Boss etc...
12. Horn
13. Wheels
oh im planning on building a BEC Indy R
Thanks
Mike
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:19 AM |
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Thats seems a good list, Undo the rear hub nuts when the car is still on wheels...
What engine does the car have?
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:21 AM |
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2.0 dohc with non power steering
but thats literally all I know, no idea what diff or if it even has calipers on the back
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Jasongray5
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:31 AM |
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My DOHC came with an open 7.5ich diff, which was no good for me, dont know how easy the conversion would be in your car though...?
How hard can it be?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33261515@N03/sets/72157611049241239/
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Guinness
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:33 AM |
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Sounds like a plan!
I'm tight, so I took all the fuses out of the fuse box, all the bulbs out of the lights and as many nuts / bolts as I could find!
Don't forget stuff like the hazard warning relay (above steering column), handbrake switch, etc. Wiring / plugs for the indicator stalks etc
(if you plan on re-using them)!
Get the VIN plate off the front too. Take lots of photos too, helps with DVLA I understand!
Don't forget that when stripping the donor you don't need to be that careful. Angle grinder / saws / lump hammer etc all save time! (and
make a great noise!).
The gearbox might be worth salvaging and sticking up for sale?
Good luck and have a fun weekend.
Mike
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coozer
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:36 AM |
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Don't forget the wiring loom, much easier to reuse, and while your taking the dash out to get at it save all the fasteners. Never too many
fasteners!
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:39 AM |
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The deal I have done on the car involves me leaving the engine and gear box (however everything else can be taken)
With regards to the diff I would prefer a 7.5" one as I can use the cossie LSD's or fit the Quaife upgrade which was my preferred option.
I have paid so little for the sierra that even if i salvage the horn and the front hub assemblys it will be worth while.
Also if im building a BEC do i not use the hazard light/indicator wiring from the bike loom?
Thanks
Mike
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ashg
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:48 AM |
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get this months complete kitcar there is a list of all the parts you need and plus a strip down order
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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coozer
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 08:53 AM |
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Going BEC you just need the engine part of the loom, the rest is a little flimsy for extending out to the far corners on your car.
7.5 diff is way heavier than 7" mind so if yor going to a Quaffe lsd it may be OK with the Sierra one.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:09 AM |
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hmmmm I hadn't considered the weight difference. can anyone give me an approx difference?
It doesn't matter so much though as for the £50 I have paid for the car I can afford to buy a whole new rear end if neccessary
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jamesbaa
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:10 AM |
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£50, that sounds like a bloody bargin to me!
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:25 AM |
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The guy builds stock cars so wants the engine and chassis but said i can have anything else
hes dropping it off tonight and picking it up on monday
so my exhaustive list is as follows:
1. Diff with bolts if possible
2. Half Shafts with retaining clips if possible
3. Prop shaft with bolts if possible
4. Master Cylinder
5. Front Hubs
6. Rear Hubs + Callipers
7. Hand brake + Cover
8. Steering Rack (non power steering)
9. Steering column
10. Steering U/J & Linkage
11. Steering Wheel + Boss etc...
12. Horn
13. Wheels
14. Wiring Loom
15. All Retaining Clips
16. Hazards/Indicator Stalks + Wiring
if I understand correctly I cant use the wiring loom from the Bike for stuff like indicators and lights as the bike wiring loom is so flimsy it will
be difficult to extend, would that be correct?
oh and planning a Hayabusa build at the moment.
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Macbeast
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:26 AM |
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I used angle grinder to cut out the VIN / chassis number on the floor by the driver's right hand.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeFellows
It doesn't matter so much though as for the £50 I have paid for the car I can afford to buy a whole new rear end if neccessary
and some one might want the rear axle you've got now
also if its a manual gearbox it should be an MT75 (2wd 4cly version) which someone might want
[Edited on 31/7/09 by mcerd1]
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eznfrank
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:52 AM |
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didn't see front calipers mentioned. The Indy takes a 7 inch diff as standard. In terms of the loom, i've just extended mine out and
relocated a few bits and that works spot on, but take the loom anyway for all the extending bits.
[Edited on 31/7/09 by eznfrank]
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 09:59 AM |
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I was planning to replace the standard calipers with willwood ones hence no need for them
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Slater
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 10:17 AM |
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Don't forget the flasher relay, it's buried in the dash behind the clocks if I remember. It's not in the fuse box for some
reason.
Also wheel nuts, so you can use the wheels as build wheels.
Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 31/7/09 at 06:02 PM |
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plastic top and bottom steering column shrouds.
tony
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 2/8/09 at 05:08 PM |
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Well that was surprisingly east for a 20 year old car
all the bolts came undone easily (i didnt have a socket big enough to undo the rear hub bolt) so removed the whole rear end)
The diff is push in shafts however I think it might be a LSD as if i turn the prop both half shafts turn, however if i turn a single halfshaft the
other doesnt turn (if that makes any sense at all)
is there a sure fire way of telling the spec of the diff?
Thanks
Mike
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mads
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| posted on 2/8/09 at 05:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeFellows
is there a sure fire way of telling the spec of the diff?
Thanks
Mike
If you can read what the code is on the metal tag on the diff (if still there) then that might give a clue.
We gain knowledge faster than we do wisdom!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 3/8/09 at 04:06 PM |
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Any idea of the location of this metal plate
the whole thing is still covered in crud so its difficult to see
Thanks
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Blackcab
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| posted on 3/8/09 at 05:07 PM |
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I think the metal tag is usually to the rear of the diff its about 2 inch long 3/4 inch wide
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MikeFellows
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| posted on 3/8/09 at 05:46 PM |
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well im pretty certain that there is no tag on the rear of the diff, however i found a few numbers near the front of the diff
06625
83BG-4025-BE
mean anything to anyone?
I searched the forum and only found one other thread with those numbers and it was never confirmed which it was
Thanks
[Edited on 3/8/09 by MikeFellows]
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