iscmatt
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 04:55 PM |
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Sump is too low (Pinto)
After 2 years i have decided the sump on my MK pinto is too low, i can never go on a trip without scraping it on the ground somewhere. I have finally
worn through the metal on the bottom near the filler cap and have a nice little puddle of oil on the garage floor. I have temporarily patched the hole
with some liquid metal stuff!
Now, my first question is for those with a pinto and a type 9 box, have you bolted the gearbox support bracket on top of or underneath the chassis
brackets? my box is currently sitting on top though i'm wondering if i change it so that it hangs from it rather than sits on it and that the
engine and gearbox will pivot slightly bringing the front of the sump up a little higher (the front of the sump being the current lowest point of the
car by a good inch lower than the bottom of the bellhousing) I would think some high tensile bolts would be able to deal with holding the gearbox
ok?
Also does anybody know if mk have made a sump that can offer more ground clearance for a pinto? i got mine from them 3 years ago, didnt know if they
had changed their design? I'm thinking that it must be possible to re-design the sump to make it shallower yet wider to keep the same capacity?
the math shouldn't be too complicated.
Also i can't heighten the whole engine as the top of the engine (oil filler cap) already rubs (leaves a small mark) on the underside of the
bonnet and i'm not wanting to add a scoop.
Oh and i'm not getting a dry sump either! 
I will be making a sump guard as well at some point but want to get the sump as high as possible first.
Pinto sump advice and what you have done all welcomed
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RickRick
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 05:10 PM |
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if you've got welding gear, you could always alter the oil filler, cut off the standard filler, weld plate in it's place and make a
smaller filler plug on the back end of the rocker cover
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 05:15 PM |
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Have you shortened you sump?
That would be the place to start imho
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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iscmatt
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 05:22 PM |
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yes it was shortened by mk from the start
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flak monkey
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 05:30 PM |
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Is the sump at the same level as the bottom of the bellhousing?
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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iscmatt
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 06:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Is the sump at the same level as the bottom of the bellhousing?
No, it is about an inch lower, the whole of the underneath of the engine and gearbox is sloped towards the front
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SteveWalker
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 06:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by iscmatt
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Is the sump at the same level as the bottom of the bellhousing?
No, it is about an inch lower, the whole of the underneath of the engine and gearbox is sloped towards the front
If it wasn't sloped would the sump still be lower than the bellhousing? Purely by chance, the pinto engine that I bought has a sump that is dead
level with the bellhousing and that's a standard Ford sump, unmodified! I don't know what that sump came from, but at least it proves that
a shortened sump will cause no problems at that height - there are no "wingboxes" either, so Ford obviously deemed the capacity
sufficient.
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garyo
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 07:01 PM |
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On my old westfield I fitted an RS2000 alloy sump. That was much shorter than the standard tin sump and had an extra wing to keep the capacity:
ebay link
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flak monkey
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 07:09 PM |
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If the sump really is an inch lower than the bellhousing (at the back) then it wasnt shortened enough. If it is just an inch lower at the front
because your engine is tipped forward then there is your problem.
You may find it is tipped forward to clear the bonnet or nose cone, so check that before going any further.
All I did with mine is cut the bottom off and weld a bit of plate over it. Didnt increase the capacity and have never had any oil surge problems
whatsoever.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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delboy
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 08:30 PM |
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As Garyo says, get an RS sump, its alloy and gives sufficent clearance. If you do make sure you get the pick up pipe and dip stick too.
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iscmatt
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 09:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
quote:
Originally posted by iscmatt
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Is the sump at the same level as the bottom of the bellhousing?
No, it is about an inch lower, the whole of the underneath of the engine and gearbox is sloped towards the front
If it wasn't sloped would the sump still be lower than the bellhousing?
If you mean is it all in line then yes it is.
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coozer
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| posted on 10/8/09 at 09:35 PM |
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My thoughts..
1. Jack the engine mounting up to lift the engine. As long as its within the body..
2. A sump skid.. 2 ways.. A canny thick metal guard mounted on the front of the chassis, folded to cover the sump... or, some bits of wood strapped
under the chassis rails lower than the sump to act as skids.
All you need is your sump to NOT be the lowest point.
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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iscmatt
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 09:08 AM |
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bump
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iank
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| posted on 11/8/09 at 09:21 AM |
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Have you seen/compared the sump modifications given in ChrisG's book?
Not sure if that's better or worse than what you have.
Can you raise the engine a 1/2 an inch on the mounts? It doesn't need to be moved up much if it's catching but hasn't wrecked the
mounts yet.
Finally is it catching because the front dips down on heavy braking? If so, slightly harder springs might sort out the problem.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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