fuzzy!!
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| posted on 2/11/06 at 10:26 PM |
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Book Chassis Mod? for 1600 xflow
I was just going through some of the archive topics and found the following comments:
(1) procomp: " tunnel wise if you make it an extra 1" wider on the drivers side and 2" wider on the passenger side you should be
able to get the crossflow and box further back .....(2) And dont forget to move the front to rear enginebay lower rail by the starter motor over to
clear it.
I'm just starting with the book chassis, are each of the above necessary? why would I need to move the engine back?
Is the lower rail mod also necessary?
While I'm at it - I'm working from the McSorley plan for book - are there any errors in dimensions in this that I should be aware of?
Thanks
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DIY Si
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| posted on 2/11/06 at 10:39 PM |
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The engine wants to move backwards if possible to aid weight distribution. You want it to be as near the middle of the car as possible IIRC.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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James
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| posted on 2/11/06 at 10:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by fuzzy!!
While I'm at it - I'm working from the McSorley plan for book - are there any errors in dimensions in this that I should be aware of?
Thanks
Not that I've heard anyone speak of.
As for the engine moving back... I put mine all the way back till the engine was against the bulkhead... and my weight bias is slightly too much to
the rear! So don't go too far! 
The lower rail mod 'G'? is to help clear the starter.
Just do most of the chassis but leave 'G' out till you have the engine placed in... no mistakes then!
Same goes for FU1/2 and 'E'... leave them until suspension brackets are done and ready to go on. Then do the brackets and FU1/2 all
together.
Cheers,
James
P.S. Where in Surrey are you? There's a meet this Sunday morning at Walton on Thames.... check the Clubs and Events section for details....
u2u sent.
[Edited on 2/11/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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scutter
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| posted on 2/11/06 at 11:29 PM |
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I agree with James here, I put my X-flow as far back as i could and the weight balance was 48/52 front to rear, with a total weight of 660KGs. I ony
left a 3mm clearance, doing it again i'd go for a 7-10mm gap.
ATB Dan.
P.s. rear weight bias makes for fun ni the wet
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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procomp
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| posted on 3/11/06 at 07:56 AM |
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Hi the other reason for wanting to move the engine back is the fact that the gear leaver isnt stuck 2" under the dashboard meaning you have to
use a remote gearstick where as you cant beat having the gearstick direct into the gearbox even if it has to have a slight bend backwards.
Realisticly it wont make any real big difference to the overall handeling of the car if it is only ever going to see road use but all the small mods
will add up at the end of the day to make a more plesant car to drive. Plus with the engine a little further back it will help whith height issues at
the front of the engine clearing the bonnet obviously depending on what engine you are running.
cheers matt
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/11/06 at 08:32 AM |
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I put a x-flow into a totally standard chassis and everything worked as it should - there's no urgency to change things if you don't have
to! Also, if you widen the tunnel then you lose space for your feet - and as my feet are size 11 I couldn't do that!
As James said, locate the G rail by putting the engine on the floor and laying the chassis over it (you can do this with just the lower part of the
chassis). The FU parts should be fitted when you are ready to fit the suspension points.
The limiting point for position is the rear of the bellhousing - mine's about 5 or 10mm from the frame.
As for the gearshift - the cheap option is to bend the gearlever, or you can fit an extender. Both work.
David
[Edited on 3/11/06 by David Jenkins]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/11/06 at 09:57 AM |
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and if you fit an extender like the ones we have Dave then its pretty much the same as going straight into the box. Mine is more precise than std ford
shift, and a lot better than the westfield extension shift!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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whittlebeast
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| posted on 3/11/06 at 11:25 AM |
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James
What is your weight dist. and why do you feel its too rear heavy?
AW
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PeterW
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| posted on 3/11/06 at 11:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
and if you fit an extender like the ones we have Dave then its pretty much the same as going straight into the box. Mine is more precise than std ford
shift, and a lot better than the westfield extension shift!
Is that a DIY extension then..? Any piccies...?/
Cheers
Peter
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/11/06 at 04:05 PM |
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Click on the WWW button below, then select "Special tools & parts". You'll see the gearlever extension in the menu...
No diagrams, but loads of pictures; it has been successfully made by a few people now. You will need a lathe (or a LOT of ingenuity).
cheers,
David
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