quote:
yip, well worth buying, when you do you'll realise just how much your old spanners were flexing 
Mr Whippy - 31/3/08 at 07:51 AM
quote:
Originally posted by DaveFJ
they are leaking though the center bleed hole! so i guess PTFE isn't going to make a difference!
In that case the seat may be damaged by corrosion; you can fix this by using a new drill bit on something gentle like a hand drill or electric screw
driver to clean the bottom chamfer of the hole like in this dazzling picture
Rescued attachment brake.JPG
TGR-ECOSSE - 31/3/08 at 07:57 AM
quote:
Originally posted by gingerprince
Try a bit of PTFE on the nipples.
Can't concentrate at work now!!!! 
DaveFJ - 31/3/08 at 08:02 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote:
Originally posted by DaveFJ
they are leaking though the center bleed hole! so i guess PTFE isn't going to make a difference!
In that case the seat may be damaged by corrosion; you can fix this by using a new drill bit on something gentle like a hand drill or electric screw
driver to clean the bottom chamfer of the hole like in this dazzling picture
I thought of trying that but was worried that the chamfer angle might be wrong....
Also I have noticed that the original nipples are narrower at the chamfer ... like this:
Description
whereas the new ones i fitted are like Mr Whippy's original diagram... so i guess i am trying to use areas of the mating face that weren't
in use before! BUT... where can i find nipples like this?? went round all the local motorfactors that were open yesterday and NONE of them had any
brake nipples at all!!!
[Edited on 31-3-08 by DaveFJ]
Mr Whippy - 31/3/08 at 09:42 AM
the needle should have a steeper angle than the chamfered hole it seals against. That's why you tend to get a line round the tip of the needle.
If it is trying to seal across the whole face it will struggle, hence the shallow angle of the drill is fine.Try wrapping some tape round the drill
bit and just holding the drill in your hand to clean it up, very little metal needs to be removed and a small bit of grease on the drill tip will hold
onto the metal removed.
[Edited on 31/3/08 by Mr Whippy]
DaveFJ - 31/3/08 at 09:46 AM
cheers
will try that
RazMan - 31/3/08 at 12:11 PM
One tip worth mentioning - don't rely on the Eezibleed to get all of the air out of your system. Always make the m/c go through its full stroke,
even when using the eezibleed, as air can get firmly lodged inside it.
DaveFJ - 31/3/08 at 12:19 PM
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
One tip worth mentioning - don't rely on the Eezibleed to get all of the air out of your system. Always make the m/c go through its full stroke,
even when using the eezibleed, as air can get firmly lodged inside it.
last time i tried bleeding like that I pushed too far/hard and think i flipped the seals inside because the MC started to leak 
a quick rebuild
seems to have sorted that...
will get her back up on axle stands tonight and have another go at the bleeding thing.... If I can cure the leaks first!!
02GF74 - 31/3/08 at 01:41 PM
PTFE tape!!?!?!
it may work but it is not the right way to do it.
as Mr W says, you need to look at the cone faces on the nipples and the corresponding sest to determine why you are not getting a seal.
note that after bleading, unless the nipples point downwards you will have fluid in the nipple - I use a small tissue to wick it up so that it is
easier to tell if you have a leaking nipple - presumably this is not what is happening with your nopples.
DaveFJ - 31/3/08 at 01:58 PM
quote:
Originally posted by 02GF74
PTFE tape!!?!?!
it may work but it is not the right way to do it.
as Mr W says, you need to look at the cone faces on the nipples and the corresponding sest to determine why you are not getting a seal.
note that after bleading, unless the nipples point downwards you will have fluid in the nipple - I use a small tissue to wick it up so that it is
easier to tell if you have a leaking nipple - presumably this is not what is happening with your nopples.
wassa nopple?? sounds rude 
It's not just residual fluid in the nipple because when i press the pedal I can see it start to seep out again...
TBh the nipples are probably the easier thing to fix... the seepage from the unions will be harder because I can't get a spanner on the to
tighten properly.... me and my grand ideas about using the dual circuits of my princess callipers!!
The princess caliper is designed to have 2 hoses connected with a split system. so that is how i have set it up ! with the sierra master cylinder
supplying a T on either side of the car. The T's then supply one side of each caliper.... net result: pipes everywhere!
It seemed like a good idea at the time!
RazMan - 1/4/08 at 03:52 AM
Dave, if I understand you correctly you are splitting the brakes left/right and not front/rear? Or have I missed something?
DaveFJ - 1/4/08 at 08:03 AM
No.. my master cylinder is split 3 ways.....
so 1 rear and 2 fornt circuits. I have plit the 2 front circuits so they supply the 2 independant parts of the caliper. theory is if I loose 1 of the
front circuits both front calipers still work...
Bought myself a flare nut spanner from halfrauds (pro range) last night and it does make quite a difference when tweaking those leaks! although I
still couldn't get the access i needed so ended up stripping out half the pipe work to get at the union! one side done one to go....
applied for SVA today and asked for a date on or around 8th May.... so the clock is ticking!
