ive replaced my old welded arms with these, rosejointed and not welded. Its a female m14 rosejoint. I plan to drill the taper out to 14mm, which is only a sliver off it to be honest (in fact, about 20% won't be affected as its already larger than 14mm). It will be held together with a good grade bolt, the benefit being i can then shim out any bumpsteer. And cost of course

Any thoughts on how bad or good this idea is? All ideas welcome
Rescued attachment arm1.JPG

and closer
Rescued attachment arms2.JPG

Should be ok I would think. I cant see any major problems with it anyway.

We use rose joints on the track rods for our uni race car, and only M8 ones at that if i remember correctly.

David

[Edited on 8/11/06 by flak monkey]

How about using a stud with a taper on one end ? bit like the one on the R.S site. Best of both worlds and still able to be shimmed

i would need a lathe to make that! It is a better solution, but i dont think its far infront of just drilling it out.

What sort of bolt should i use? Obviously one carefully sized to not be wearing the thread etc, but is 12.9 grade going to manage with the bending forces it might feel?

Just use a SHCS, and M14 12.9 grade bolt has a stupid yeild strain of 13.75 tonnes.

In shear this is reduced to around 2/3 of the tensile strength so about 9 tonnes.

I doubt you will ever break it

David

IS there enough movement of the ball from full compression to full droop?


Paul G

i believe so, provided the nuts dont intefere with the housing. Might have to use a spacer or two.

David, without sounding daft, whats an SHCS?!

Socket Head Cap Screw. Allen head bolt, they are 12.9 grade as standard if you buy decent ones.

David

Joel, you more than welcome to use my lathe if you want to make any shims etc.

Andy...

Also make sure you use big washers when bolting it all together so it can't fall apart if the rose joint fails ( hope that makes sense )

Apparantly its called a 'safety Washer'

[Edited on 8/11/06 by andyb64]

[Edited on 8/11/06 by andyb64]

Just look at Rorty's de-dion plans for how to do the safety washer.

One safety washer coming up (just don't give me stick about angles of the rod end.) It is at the bottom of the bolt and stops the outer race from seperating completely if the rod end ball fails.
It has a nice chamfer in the middle to clear the outer race in tilt.

[img][/img]

that will be fine Joel, in fact apart from the fact that dirt can get at it a rose joint is made to a better std (usually) than a std ball joint.

don't worry about drilling it out that will be fine too.

Just a thought, what would the MOT inspector think of it? Wouldn't he expect to see some sort of protection against the ingress of dirt, water etc? or is it just wear they look for.

Cheers,

Dave

just put on some of those rubber boots to keep all the crap out.
Rescued attachment 56_rodend_boot.jpg

looks like a pair of squash balls could replace those things ^^^^ with the appriopriate holes of course.

Cut the taper off an old joint and drill through it. Does it alter anything running the joint over the steering arm instead of under it?

it will be under it once its bolted

since the rosejoint has an m14x2 thread, it also has a 14mm bore, hence theres no space to make a tapered insert.

Nitram38,

From your photo it may be an opti-clusion but it looks like the nyloc nut is sat on the fillet weld. If so then it puts extra stress on the bolt due to bending.

quote:

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Originally posted by CairB
Nitram38,

From your photo it may be an opti-clusion but it looks like the nyloc nut is sat on the fillet weld. If so then it puts extra stress on the bolt due to bending.

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There is no weld under the nut and it sits square to the base.

Next time I will get my camera out and just take a picture of the washer!!!!!!!!

Just had a look in Keith Tanners book, How to build a cheap sports car, and he was going down this route but couldn't get enough articulation.

May be some pictures on his web site worth looking at.