Please excuse this being a bit rough around well every where it's a work in progress in a chassis that was made 100mm wider then put back to standard.
In case any body was interested....
Please excuse this being a bit rough around well every where it's a work in progress in a chassis that was made 100mm wider then put back to
standard.
Very clever. Great work.
That looks great Phil.
Have you adapted wishbones to take the MX5 front and rear uprights too?
Thats just what i've been looking for, it looks really good. I can now see how the rear of my car needs to look.
Are you fairly happy with the structure or are you planning any adjustments?
I think it should be fairly strong once every thing has been welded, although the mounting tubes could possibly do with being upped to 2mm wall. SB4
on the drivers side needs moving to the right by 5mm as the nose of the diff currently sits against it with the book placement.
Q:Have you adapted wishbones to take the MX5 front and rear uprights too?
The fronts I have sorted using the MX5 lower ball joints using BMW5 series track rod ends. The lower rears are solid fixed but use adjustable
suspension brackets.
[Edited on 31/7/13 by Talon Motorsport]
quote:
Originally posted by Talon Motorsport
I think it should be fairly strong once every thing has been welded, although the mounting tubes could possibly do with being upped to 2mm wall. SB4 on the drivers side needs moving to the right by 5mm as the nose of the diff currently sits against it with the book placement.
Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but I'd like to get peoples opinions on this. While the diff mounting looks decent, it did occur to me
that diff removal at a later date might be awkward once the fuel tank is in place. The logical approach of dropping the diff out of the bottom of the
car may not work, and removing it sideways will get stopped by the wishbone mounts.
Has anyone any thoughts on how best to modify the mountings to allow removal? For example, if I had the bottom rail bolted in rather than welded would
that work and still be strong? If this is a viable approach I would appreciate guidance on how to put things together to avoid things like
untriangulated tubes or welds in shear.
[Edited on 11/12/13 by Slimy38]
yes i would be interested in knowing the answer to that last question also .
quote:
Originally posted by JSArmstrong
yes i would be interested in knowing the answer to that last question also .
People do bring old posts back up.........
Solved this problem but never told any body how to do it they just started to buy chassis instead. Simple answer on the Roadster at least was to make
RS13 run from RS10 all the way back to RP1 and and then crop RS14 making it two short sections. The diff cover main plate being 220x220mm passes
through the gap between RS3 and RS6 which is 225mm, yes the fuel tank would have to come out if you ever needed to remove the diff but it's not a
perfect world.
[IMG]http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/talonmotorsport/DSC_0493.jp
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[Edited on 29/10/16 by Talon Motorsport]
[Edited on 29/10/16 by Talon Motorsport]