limpetminer
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| posted on 27/1/13 at 07:53 PM |
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OIL GRADE IN 1000RR
WHAT IS THE BEST OIL GRADE TO USE IN AN FIREBLADE 1000 RR ENGINE? FULLY SYNTHETIC OR SEMI?
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edsco
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 07:36 AM |
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For racing I use Fully Synth 10w50
edsco
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johnemms
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 11:25 AM |
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Motorbike oil.... not car oil...
I think they are different.. 
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 28/1/13 at 12:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
Motorbike oil.... not car oil...
I think they are different..
Bike oils never have the friction modifiers that can cause wet clutches to slip. Some car oils do (labeled "energy saving" ), some
don't. You can use top quality car oil in bikes with no problems at all, provided you ensure it's compatible with wet clutches.
However, for something like a Fireblade I would want to use a fully synthetic oil, and the choice of suitable car oils is then rather narrower.
[Edited on 28/1/13 by MikeRJ]
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limpetminer
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 08:30 AM |
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CBR 1000 RR OIL
MINE HAS A DRY SUMP OIL SYSTEM,SO THE GEARBOX & CLUTCH WOULD USE SEPERATE OIL TO THE ENGINE?? PLEASE ADVISE IF I HAVE THIS WRONG.I HAVE ONLY JUST
BOUGHT THE CAR & HAVE A LOT TO LEARN ABOUT BIKE ENGINES.
THANKS.
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johnemms
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 10:25 AM |
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Motor oil with an 11% zinc amount in it will offer the extra protection needed and this amount is generally added to most if not all motor oils.
Motor oil for high revving engines on performance sports cars and air cooled motorcycles should really have a higher zinc content as it will give
extended protection of all metal to metal surfaces. Just to emphasise that zinc will not give higher upgraded protection it just protects longer,
consider a bike engine working at 14,000 r.p.m whereas most car engines run at 2,500 r.p.m....big difference isn't it!
--------------------------------------------
I have found no cheaper way to go than to use Valvoline VR-1. If you read every label on the automart shelves carrying standard oils that meet
today’s requirements, you will probably discover that only VR-1 contains ZDDP. It is only marginally more costly than ordinary current-spec oils, and
it requires no additional (and expensive) ZDDP additives. Now that the word is out among flat-cam old car owners, the oil marketers have discovered
the profitability of carrying ZDDP-enhanced oils, they have typically charged very high prices for them. VR-1 is still reasonably priced, and I have
built four engines recently with flat-cams, using VR-1, without a single failure. Be advised that there is some research out there that claims that
older engines that have already been driven substantial miles using ZDDP oils may not need ZDDP oils after the cams are “broken in”, since the ZDDP
acts to change the surface of the cams, over time. Unfortunately, I do not know what the recommended minimum mileage is, so I just use VR-1 in all of
my older engines. So far, so good.
Higer zinc and phospher is good for my crossflow..
However.. not good if you got a cat & sensors..
[Edited on 29/1/13 by johnemms]
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 12:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by limpetminer
MINE HAS A DRY SUMP OIL SYSTEM,SO THE GEARBOX & CLUTCH WOULD USE SEPERATE OIL TO THE ENGINE?? PLEASE ADVISE IF I HAVE THIS WRONG.I HAVE ONLY JUST
BOUGHT THE CAR & HAVE A LOT TO LEARN ABOUT BIKE ENGINES.
THANKS.
You have it wrong.
A dry sump on a bike engine still provides oil to the engine, gearbox and clutch. The difference is just that the resevoir of oil is in a separate
tank and not in the sump. The oil is fed direct from the tank to the oil pump where it is circulated around the engine in the normal way. As the oil
returns/drains to the sump, it is reurned to the tank by a scavenge pump.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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phelpsa
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 03:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
Motorbike oil.... not car oil...
I think they are different..
Bike oils never have the friction modifiers that can cause wet clutches to slip. Some car oils do (labeled "energy saving" ), some
don't. You can use top quality car oil in bikes with no problems at all, provided you ensure it's compatible with wet clutches.
However, for something like a Fireblade I would want to use a fully synthetic oil, and the choice of suitable car oils is then rather narrower.
[Edited on 28/1/13 by MikeRJ]
Fully synthetic bike oil tends to be lower viscosity (5w30 rather than 10w40 in most cases) which makes the clutch grabbier. It also works the plates
harder because there is less torque transmitted by fluid shear during slipping. I would recommend sticking with 10w40 or 10w50.
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OX
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| posted on 29/1/13 at 05:47 PM |
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You can get most big name motor bike fully synthetic oils in 10/40 . If you change it often you might get away with semi synthetic .
I have to use Motorex Cross Power 10/60 in mine because of the silver nitride coated big end bearings  
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