furryeggs
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| posted on 14/4/16 at 06:23 PM |
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That's the quick shift and extension fitted, the stick was sloppy as F@$k so I fitted a new saddle to the extension, much better.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
Got the rear seat panel fitted now the tanks fitted along with the pump, filter and the fuel lines and loom are run through the tunnel and fixed.
[img] [/img]
Trial fitted my TB's to my DIY manifold, 95% straight after welding (slight bow but i'm sure it'll pull in using a good gasket)
[img] [/img]
Not had a lot of time and my backs gone again so it'll be light duty for a few weeks.
I need to cut 10-15mm of my quick rack to get the wheels pointing the right way and all my bits for my engine service/upgrade are here, so
that's my next few weeks sorted out. Just waiting for my sump to arrive and that's it. Tiger have sent me my prop and steering shaft so I
now have everything to get my engine/gbox in the chassis and lined up.
I'm collecting my water lines and expansion tank from Stoneleigh so hope to have the engine up and running by june??? I just need to choose the
colour and hope that tigers mould is repaired asap.
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mk7matt
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| posted on 14/4/16 at 08:43 PM |
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Looking good chap.
Sitting in the car making brum brum noises is so much better once it's off the stands 
2.0 Pinto powered Mk Indy.
10 years in the making.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 14/4/16 at 09:08 PM |
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Its back on stands now as i reckon it'll be easier swinging the engine around without the wheel's in the way. I'll find out this
weekend as i've got the crane from work, you might have to come and lift it all off me if it goes tits up.
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neilp1
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| posted on 15/4/16 at 05:30 AM |
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Keep it on the stands as long as possible. Much easier on the back if the car is higher on stands than on the wheels.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 16/4/16 at 07:31 PM |
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Floor mounted pedal bracket to add a little extra support and allow me to also bolt it to the bulkhead back plate.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
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I managed to get the engine turned on the stand so I can now get the sump off. Previously I had it mounted using 2 of the lower sump bolts so I
couldn't remove it.
both parts of the sump removed.
[img] [/img]
sump gasket and pick up removed.
[img] [/img]
new sump (155mm deep) lined up with the old sump (210mm deep)
[img] [/img]
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Daf
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| posted on 16/4/16 at 07:45 PM |
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Lovely neat build you've got there, I love it when people put the effort in to make the stuff that nobody sees neat too!
Quick question if you don't mind - what's the quality of that sump like? I'm considering changing mine and they look a lot cheaper
than the Raceline one that's tempting me!
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furryeggs
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| posted on 16/4/16 at 08:29 PM |
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Its pretty good, if you u2u me your email i can send some pictures. I'll probably start a thread at some point so others can see what its like.
it holds 5 odd litres of oil and has plenty if baffling so should work a treat.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 8/5/16 at 08:35 PM |
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I've had nut ache of a time trying to sort my sump issues (premiermotorsports.co.uk, not a very good service), It doesn't fit properly
causing the rod bolts to catch and hit the inner edge, now about to send the 2nd sump back for refund as this is also wrong. GBS's new steel
sump getting ordered asap.
Shiny new Coolex radiator purchased at Stoneleigh.
[img] [/img]
New radiator brackets knocked up out of some ally.
[img] [/img]
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Stainless breather blanking plate made using the old gasket.
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I did manage to get my sumpless engine/G-box together and test fitted.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
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furryeggs
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| posted on 13/6/16 at 07:33 AM |
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Still running behind schedule, plodding along when possible getting things done at work though.
Got the sump chopped to hopefully the right height.
[img] [/img]
Made a plate to weld in place and add some capacity back.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
welded in a small plate to drill and tap for a new drain plug. M14 x1.5
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
shortened my pick up. cut 2 45 degree cuts, removed roughly 1" and welded together.
[img] [/img]
Cut 3 groves 70% of the way through and bent up and welded to gain the last bit of height. should be 8-10mm clear of the bottom.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
Some how I managed to get it 97% straight and level :-)
[img] [/img]
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furryeggs
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| posted on 22/6/16 at 08:06 AM |
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Not much done this week but I did manage to pimp my wheels.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
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furryeggs
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| posted on 20/9/16 at 02:19 AM |
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Yet again I seem to be taking more things off than fitting. The engines and g/box have been out again to fit a new release bearing and clutch pin. The
radiator and water piping have been in and out getting brackets sorted.
I've finalised my steering by cutting tigers stupid tube arrangement and replaced it with a self centring bearing.
[img] [/img]
Got rid of the st170 manifold for tigers stainless 4-1 exhaust.
[img] [/img]
Got my head lights rewired with new side lights.
[img] [/img]
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Got my miss match bodywork collected and started cutting and prepping for paint.
[img] [/img]
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Also tried to mock up a dash 2 to see if it'll fit behind the steering wheel. (it won't)
[img] [/img]
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mk7matt
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| posted on 20/9/16 at 07:56 PM |
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Coming along nicely chap.
2.0 Pinto powered Mk Indy.
10 years in the making.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 22/9/16 at 11:49 PM |
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Not a lot to do at work so I managed to get around to shortening my gearstick on the lathe and re-threading the knob, roughly 4". It should now
clear the bottom of the dash without taking off my knuckles every gear change.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
I've also started to mock up the dash layout. I'm trying to keep as much in and around the area of the steering wheel as possible without
obstructing anything. I've managed to keep 70mm above the column so I have plenty of room for 52mm gauges. looking at most Avon dashes they are
usually cut almost right to the top of the dash area. My thin bucket seat has helped keep the steering position low.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
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Mash
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| posted on 23/9/16 at 09:41 AM |
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you do some excellent work Mate, very impressed 
Looks like you'll end up with a layout very similar to how I've done mine on my Indy, which I'm very happy with
 
new dash test fit
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Huttojb
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| posted on 3/10/16 at 07:21 PM |
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furryeggs
Looking good. Can't wait to see the next install of pictures
Jason
 
huttojb_GenTiger
There are only 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand binary and those that don’t.
If only DEAD people understand hexadecimal - 57,005
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furryeggs
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| posted on 9/10/16 at 11:13 AM |
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Well the bodies been on and off a few times over the last week or for measuring and cutting, its now off for hopefully the last time before it goes
off to paint
Now its off I can get all the little jobs finished of ready for firing the bitch up for the first time in a few weeks???
Wirings first up, the tiger looms way to long and all in the wring place. I've started at the front cable tying it up before I start drilling
holes for clips, everything lines up pretty well where it should other than the middle section. From the starter motor spur to up under the dash is
roughly 1m long, it needs to be at least half that length, this has left a coil of loom that I either need to hide somewhere or strip the entire
engine bay part of the loom (Balls).
Gauges and lights turned up this week for the dash, so I've wired what I can ready to finalise positions of everything before I make the final
dash. way to much money spent.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
I've positioned a few bits as well. fuel pressure gauge and a fuel tank vent.
[img] [/img]
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There's lots of 10-15m jobs i need to get done over the next few weeks. In-between a Job interview and a week in Norfolk I should have time to
get at least 1 of them done.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 27/10/16 at 07:43 PM |
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Managed to get a few more little jobs done before the body goes of to paint, and found 20 more still to do.
Finally got round to getting the tunnel top done.
[img] [/img]
There's going to be a 2nd carbon or GF top over this with edges that drop down over the side once I've finalised what I'm going to
finish the dash in.
[img] [/img]
Started to cover any small gaps in the panelling with some aluminium tape.
[img] [/img]
Made a canvas gearstick gaiter, this will be waterproofed and a door brush wind thingy fitted underneath to help keep stuff coming through.
[img] [/img]
I've made a template for the exhaust hole in the side bodywork. I've taken the measurements from the top suspension mount as the reference
point. I just need to pluck up the courage to cut it...
[img] [/img]
This is what I hope it'll be like. I have cut the final template, I just haven't taken a picture with it in place.
[img] [/img]
I've also almost done with my steering wheel pad. there will be a separate thread for that as I have a question or 2.
I'm hopefully getting 3-4 small jobs done a week, mainly ones that I need the body on to sort/plan the layout. I don't want to be
drilling/cutting anything once the paints on the body. Need to finish the dash and tunnel, cut the exhaust hole, then the roll bar holes and fuel
filler.
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Mike-B
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| posted on 28/10/16 at 04:14 PM |
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Absolutley love this thread - watching with interest.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 30/10/16 at 09:31 PM |
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Got the bodywork back on, again, ready for cutting the exhaust hole. whoopy
Also got a little side tracked with the dash. I decided to get it knocked up in fibre glass s, I proceeded to cut a length of 34mm waste pipe and
stuck it onto the back of the wood template. Once I have glassed and sanded it I should have the 19mm radius required.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
it was the wrapped it in foil to stop the glass sticking.
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A few layers of glass and resin, with a little extra at the radius start point for sanding smooth.
[img] [/img]
All done and roughly trimmed then left to cure, .
[img] [/img]
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furryeggs
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| posted on 10/11/16 at 12:30 PM |
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I've got a bit more bodywork cut and templates made for various bits.
rear boot panel and roll bar hole template made, There's a little bit of tweaking to the final design but this is pretty much how it'll
be.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
I took a bit of courage to go at the bodywork with a drill and saw. I had to take a little bit more off than expected but I can patch /cover anything
unsightly with GF.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
A bit more GF for boxing around the roll bar stays, It just need trimming and a template making for the top to be made in GF.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
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Roll bar finally in place (temporally).
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And finally, my dash is almost done.
[img] [/img]
Lots more to do.
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furryeggs
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| posted on 28/11/16 at 10:19 AM |
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Well, getting ready for a new job next week has taken even more time away from the build, luckily I've been on nights so I've been able to
get a few bits done.
All my exhaust is 2" pipe, so you'd think ordering a 2" cat would offer straight up... Nope.
[img] [/img]
A little bit of cutting and basic maths can sort out a reducer to make it work.
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Jubilee clip and a bit of TIG and it's a perfect fit, a measure and cut to length and welded to my collector
[img] [/img]
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Finished collector/CAT combo. Do I weld it or relief cut and clamp it?
[img] [/img]
Also got my air filter and TB's joined. Not to sure on the angle of my manifold? might have to pay DanST for one of his.
[img] [/img]
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furryeggs
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| posted on 14/1/17 at 08:20 PM |
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Still not had a lot of time on the build but the little bit I have has been pretty useful. I seem to be past the take on-off-on-off stage and things
are starting to be fitted to stay.
I've had a bit of an induction side change. Gone are the R6 TB's and manifold and in come some bigger Hayabusa TB's and manifold.
I'm going to knock up an additional support bracket to help hold them in place as they are quite close to the alternator and I want to minimise
the chance of them touching.
ITB's with 90mm trumpets fitted. New hoses required as these are slightly to small in diameter, had to stretch them slightly over the
runners.
[img] [/img]
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I've modified my radiator and cooling layout slightly but that's all now fitted in and fixed in place, just the bleed hose to go in once
the header tanks fitted when the body goes on.
The 4 brackets in place with rubber pads on the supports to minimise rubbing etc.
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Side view of the radiator in place.
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Top hose bracket
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Top view.
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Finished the main bits of the exhaust, all in 2" but not 2", so a few couplings/reducers had to be made to get it all to fit.
completed CAT couplings, just clamps required. there is a bit of a gap from the main pipes into the collector that I'm not 100% how to sort.
Paste and some exhaust springs I'm thinking.
[img] [/img]
A little tidy and paint on the end caps then rolled end piece fitted and It's done.
[img] [/img]
Complete exhaust from can to collector, Happy with the angle to match the body work (all done by eye).
[img] [/img]
Mocked up and test fit in place, just the pipes to collector to work out.
[img] [/img]
Getting the wiring finalised, blanked off a lot of un-needed wiring, shortened a lot of it and added a few bits. Just need to tidy it up and work out
how best to fix it all in place.
[img] [/img]
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furryeggs
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| posted on 27/2/17 at 09:13 PM |
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Managed a little bit more time in the garage over the last week or so, lots of little finishing off jobs but still finding I have to take bits off to
fit other bits.
Accelerator pedal and cable finally fitted and working...
[img] [/img]
New rocker cover gasket fitted, and rocker cover painted and re fitted...
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
Old spark plugs removed and replaced with some NGK platinum's...
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Fuel pressure regulator repositioned and plumbed in...
[img] [/img]
Front wings tattooed, It looks all black from a distance but up close you can see it,(not sure it'll be staying). This is one of the jobs I need
to do that requires taking lots off to be fitted. As the wings are already mounted to the stays I need to take my uprights off splitting the top ball
joint and brake lines to get them on, plus I need to machine a few spacers to fill the 6-7mm gap between the stay and back of the hub. (the stays are
flat and the hubs aren't).
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
My wirings all complete, checked, tested and ready for firing up as soon as the water plumbing's finished,just the expansion tank to go (£5 from
a scrap corsa).
I've had it cranked over ok with no obvious knocks and bangs. (ecu and fuel pump disconnected at the time).
The oils in after resealing the slight leak in the sump, It's filled to the top notch on the dipstick roughly 3.5 litres, Hopefully it's
enough???
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furryeggs
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| posted on 9/3/17 at 09:38 PM |
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Bit more done this week.
First thing and what I have been most worried about is the engine and ECU wiring. I started another thread on this see "Emerald ECU question
K3" thread bellow. Long and short of it running, after a quick wiring check and re-wire it fired first time and made me poop myself as I
wasn't expecting it...
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=207948
After putting it off for a few weeks I've managed to get on the lathe at work and machine some bushes. Some Alloy ones for my wing stays to
space them off the hub. And some stainless ones for my rear suspension...
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I'm going to have to either fit some wheel spacers (10mm ish) or change my alloys for a different offset (35 at the minute) as I seem to have a
rubbing issue... Tiger stays and tiger recommended offset so somethings not right? I've already got 40mm wider wishbones either side so adding
another 10mm is gonna make it wide I would add spacers to the stays but I can't go any further with them as I won't be able to get to
the bottom ball joint nut.
[img] [/img]
Rear suspension bushes in place.
[img] [/img]
Got my passenger seat brackets fitted ready for mounting...
[img] [/img]
I've also made a few Fibre glass sheets for various bits for the tunnel, under dash and drivers foot well access.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
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neilp1
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| posted on 10/3/17 at 11:52 AM |
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I used to run with ET24 offset wheels and when I went to the 13s ET35 I used spacers on the front and I also have longer wishbones up front.
Can you bend the wing stays by the welds to give you the clearance and maybe bend the tops at the flat bar so the sit parallel with the wheels?
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