RoadkillUK
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:19 PM |
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Draughty downlighters
My daughter complained of being cold in her bedroom last night. Today I went up and there is a draught coming through the downlighters.
She has the attic bedroom and the lights are fitted to the wall/ceiling that runs at approx. 45 degrees, behind the wall/ceiling is the roof tiles,
there is approx 6 inches of a gap in there.
Anyway, below is a quick diagram including draught lines
Could someone suggest a way that I can stop the draughts from coming through?
I can't get behind the lights as I'd have to lift the roof tiles. Personally I thought of a 'cup' behind it.
Thanks.
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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designer
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:22 PM |
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If the gap between the room ceiling and the roof is small enough, use some quirty foam around the lights.
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oldtimer
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:22 PM |
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I did mine recently. I used some spare aluminium bridged over the lamp with more insulation above that, seems to have stopped the draft but still has
enough room to stop overheating.
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:38 PM |
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Dont put anything directly on top of the lights because they will get hot...potential for fire etc etc
You can buy fire hoods for some downlights, or replace them with fire rated ones....
Ben
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YQUSTA
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:45 PM |
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As ^^^^ risk of fire is very high if you cover them.
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MakeEverything
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:47 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by designer
If the gap between the room ceiling and the roof is small enough, use some quirty foam around the lights.
... but only if ou want to claim off of your house insurance and rebuild your house after the fire. I REALLY WOULDNT DO THIS.
You can buy special covers that go above the ceiling and cover the light. They are made of fire retardant and resistant material. This should stop
the draft.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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omega0684
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posted on 26/2/09 at 04:50 PM |
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can you not just seal the gap with silicone
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DarrenW
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posted on 26/2/09 at 05:36 PM |
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As said above - proper hoods only.
Another option is to remove the lights and ducktape over the holes then emulsion over the duck tape.
On a more serious note - wondering if the more expensive types have a felt or similar seal around them. Not sure if the bit that the lamp sits up
inside is vented though. Id be very cautious about what you do behind the luminaires though.
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stevebubs
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posted on 26/2/09 at 05:52 PM |
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If you replace the light fittings with bathroom zone 1 approved ones, they should seal against the wall...
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Ben_Copeland
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posted on 26/2/09 at 06:15 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by omega0684
can you not just seal the gap with silicone
Errr no.....
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
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http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
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RoadkillUK
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posted on 26/2/09 at 07:08 PM |
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Thanks for the replies so far
I have a can of foam but I don't really think that is the best or safest method.
Although mentioned in jest, I'm thinking of taking them out for the winter as they are not the main lights.
I'll have a look around for some zone1 lights to see if they are 'sealed'.
I neglected to mention that the lights are 24v, can't say if they get hot or not as they are well ventilated atm
Thanks so far, food for thought etc.
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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britishtrident
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posted on 26/2/09 at 07:25 PM |
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Locost way
Go to your local garden centre buy small clay flower pots and stick these inverted over lamp fittings.
The hole in the bottom allows sufficient ventillation.
Pots cost about 35 to 80p each depending on size
I am converting all my lights of this type to mains voltage G55 --- two advantages less trouble with transformers and you can get LED lamps for
the fittings.
At the moment the LED lamps are only suited where lower levels of light are required but they are very efficient and only use a tiny ammount of
power.
As LED lighting technology improves more powerful bulbs should become available.
[Edited on 26/2/09 by britishtrident]
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Shamrock GS
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posted on 26/2/09 at 09:36 PM |
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DO NOT USE SQUIRTY FOAM - FIRE, DEATH AND DESTRUCTION WILL FOLLOW!
Get some insulation and stuff it in the hole in a kind of do-nut shape round the hole. Thick enough to seal between tiles and ceiling but leaving an
air gap round the fitting - Robert's your Dad's brother!
G
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
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RoadkillUK
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posted on 26/2/09 at 11:03 PM |
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I have ****loads of loft insulation from the B&Q deal the other week. I may give that a go but you're not meant to get insulation touching
the tiles afaik.
The pots are a good idea, but they will be tricky to fit as I can't get behind the wall/ceiling
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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