scutter
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 03:15 AM |
|
|
Build costs
Just throwing some questions out here, I love the Vortx, but what should I be looking at to build a good Cec?
I'm thinking Duratec and a full cage.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
|
|
|
|
|
bimbleuk
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 04:28 AM |
|
|
I put 12-15K but the initial build may be lower. However the number of times I've made changes to mine, then had the car mapped and dynoed the
cost is still going up!
|
|
|
blakep82
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 10:28 AM |
|
|
depends what you define as 'good'
good quality solid car, with standard sort of engine, or race power engine, which would need a HD gearbox etc.
i have no idea btw. mine's already cost me about 6 times more than i expected...
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
|
|
|
RK
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 01:38 PM |
|
|
I am glad people are being honest about real costs. My costs are higher than yours, being so far from critical parts and everything, so my numbers
won't mean much to you. But it certainly costs more than the 6000 gbp bandied about by manufacturers (plus your cage). Unless you have your own
machine shop etc.
|
|
|
bassett
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 01:41 PM |
|
|
Mine started at £9k for an RTIB with an R1 engine then went upwards probably to around £10.5k for wiring, switches, brakes, servicing consumables and
lots of other minor bits. Duratec will add a fair wedge to this unless a cheap donor is found and im sure there will be quite a bit of extra work
involved.
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
|
|
|
RoadkillUK
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 07:05 PM |
|
|
You're all on the wrong forum ... this is LOCOST builders 
(to clarify, it's a tongue in cheek remark about the cost rather than the 'kit' ) 
[Edited on 3/5/09 by RoadkillUK]
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
|
|
|
scutter
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 09:17 PM |
|
|
I've built 2 locost, Looking for something more developed when I leave my job in the next few years.
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
|
|
|
eccsmk
|
| posted on 3/5/09 at 09:35 PM |
|
|
mines an mk so many vary a bit
cost around 8k to build but it started out very basic and a zx9
before the chassis was painted i'd bought a zx12
its changed colour twice
finally got it registered on friday and now ive orderd a few fancy bits (steering wheel, harness'
and ive asked for a price of a full cage too
and mine was only ever intended as a CHEAP hobby
HTH
|
|
|
amalyos
|
| posted on 4/5/09 at 05:47 PM |
|
|
A good Duratec, Throttle bodies and Gearbox is going to set you back 4k.
Thats why I went down the BEC route.
Once you've experianced a BEC you never go CEC. 
http://stevembuild.blogspot.com
|
|
|
scutter
|
| posted on 4/5/09 at 06:14 PM |
|
|
Been there tried that, Cec for me. Did the Mk GSXR at snetterton and a mates ZX9 around norfolk and they were just annoying.
I'm looking around 5-6K for a nice eng/box combo, so the 12-15k mark is what i've set for.
ATB Dan, the master saver as of now.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
|
|
|
jambo
|
| posted on 4/5/09 at 09:46 PM |
|
|
if you plan on a budget of 5 or 6 grand on the engine and box i then presume you will want ally brakes etc.so you better put your budget higher.
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 5/5/09 at 07:54 AM |
|
|
Under 8K for mine on the road with a zetec on bike carbs.
Reckon I could do it again for less than 6K.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
richardh
|
| posted on 5/5/09 at 08:36 AM |
|
|
would love to know how on that one mate as i fancy doing another mnr
Time for a change!
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 5/5/09 at 01:14 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by richardh
would love to know how on that one mate as i fancy doing another mnr
Easy, sub £50 Sierra, use as much as pos, 99p zetec off the bay, £30 bike carbs, Ford EEC-V ecu.
And don't end up with a garage full of extra bits like me
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
Pdlewis
|
| posted on 5/5/09 at 03:34 PM |
|
|
Mine all in and on the road (inc tax and insurance) for just under £9k with an R1 engine. If i did it again i think i could cut about £500 to a grand
off what i spent this time because i wouldnt buy as many bits that were wrong or I didnt need but thats what learning is all about
Build Photo Album
Updated 05/02/2009
|
|
|
oldtimer
|
| posted on 6/5/09 at 04:30 PM |
|
|
My fist 'kit car' I built around 7 years ago cost me £2500 but I used pracrically everything I could off the Cortina and, as a result,
was a pretty unsatisfying drive. This time I'm now up to £4K and hope to finish for <£5K. Spec is 4age black top 20v, Quaife/type 9 c/r, etc.
I think if you scratch build, spend quite a long time hunting parts down etc, you can keep the price quite reasonable. The poll would have been more
interesting if there were more lower and higher build cost options.
|
|
|
bassett
|
| posted on 6/5/09 at 05:55 PM |
|
|
Paul ive got to ask how you kept yours to £9k purely out of interest? I know mine was all bought from MNR so that may be the bulk of the cost but it
needed alot extra that wasnt included.
Cheers
Adam
[Edited on 6/5/09 by bassett]
My MNR Blog Updated Jan 2010 - Track Day Prep Begins!
|
|
|
Krismc
|
| posted on 6/5/09 at 08:26 PM |
|
|
If you plan on £5-6K like i did on engine and complete kit, thinking you have bought a complete kit (thats from every manufacturer- not just MNR)
You will end up spending a few £k more. ive spent 19-20k
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
|
|
|
richardh
|
| posted on 6/5/09 at 08:51 PM |
|
|
but you cant even get the "kit" chassis, body work etc for that from most of the kit makers.
Mine was 6.5k plus engine and other bits like wheels, tyres, manifold, exhaust, raceleda calipers, discs, pads and so forth.
the new mnr mazda - which i really fancy - is 7999 in kit form plus donor
i looked at westfield, tiger, mac, mk and luego last night for comparison and not masses of difference if you pick comparable options
you gets what you pays for and all that
Time for a change!
|
|
|
Gergely
|
| posted on 7/5/09 at 07:55 AM |
|
|
Having bought most of the stuff from MNR (RT inboard, full cage with 2005 R1 engine, Quaife reverse, paddleshift, Compomotive CXRs, etc...) the
complete car cost us around 13k to build. However as everyone said, the second car would cost much less, I reckon the same could be done for around
11k with a little looking around and making a few bits ourselves. But this is with all the nice bits, expensive wheels, etc.
PS, don't forget all the bits you will need: good quality engine oil, diff oil, battery, spark plugs, etc...
Gergely
Our build pictures
|
|
|
spdpug98
|
| posted on 7/5/09 at 08:03 AM |
|
|
When I ordered my kit from MNR, I specifically didn't want to be running down to the nut & bolts suppliers and other shops to get bits and
bobs for the build, so I wanted every single nut and bolt for the build to be included within the kit (I only had 12 weeks to finish it to get in for
SVA, so no time for running around for bits)
Therefore my kit cost was relatively high, but I have still had to buy bits and bobs, but nothing major and would guess that I have spent in total
£12/£13k - but I am sure once I have it on the road it will be well worth it
My Blog: http://spdpug98.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
Pdlewis
|
| posted on 7/5/09 at 08:43 AM |
|
|
Adam,
I only sourced the chassie/bodywork from MNR all the other parts were sourced from either MNR or toher suppliers so i got exactly what i wanted and at
a price i was happy with. I did have to compromise on the ideal sometimes but if needed these bits can be upgraded
Build Photo Album
Updated 05/02/2009
|
|
|
