Evrim
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 08:25 PM |
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chassis painting
Hi there,
I am planning to paint my chassis after final welding.The problem is, its made of pre painted tubs and bare tubs, as seen in pictures.So i am planing
to remove all the primer paints and use POR-15 stuff(Marine Clean,Metal Ready,Rust Protection and Top coat Black.) Is that the right way to go?
Any suggestion please.
 
Description
 
Description
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 08:36 PM |
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A word of warning, final welding is NEVER final welding. Build up the car as far as you can without any ally paneling, this includes seat brackets,
brake pipe brackets, scuttle attachments - the list goes on.
the ultimate protection is to get the 'finished' chassis to a media blasters who can immediately etch prime it and then coat with POR15 or
similar powder coating is a massively over rated system which allows corrosion to go undetected until all you have left is a plastic inverse mold of
you once beautiful chassis!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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wilkingj
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 08:39 PM |
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Agree with above..
When ready...Sand blast and paint imediately.
The finish is only as good as the preparation.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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blakep82
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 09:05 PM |
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yep its never finished. i'm not painting my chassis til the rest of the cars built, then i'll strip it all back down and paint and rebuild
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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Evrim
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 09:33 PM |
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thanks mate you are right
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NigeEss
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| posted on 8/9/10 at 10:17 PM |
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What about Rustbuster 121 linkydink, used on lifeboats !
Got my wishbones and front suspension painted with it but they're yet to see
daylight let alone weather !
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 9/9/10 at 09:18 AM |
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POR15 is superb stuf but take the warnings on the tine very seriously. if you get some on your skin you will NOT be able to get it off! (i managed to
get a splodge on my forehead and it was there for over a week!)also because of the speed this stuff goes off try to get some help with the
painting.
when you use the metal ready you need to rinse and dry it out then start painting asap.
I waited about 2 hours after rinsing and found a layer of rust over the whole chassis already!!!! had to start again 
enjoy 
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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coozer
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| posted on 9/9/10 at 10:46 AM |
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I was just going to red oxide mine then a coat (or 2) of chassis black. Is that enough?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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RedAvon
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| posted on 9/9/10 at 11:28 AM |
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Evrim
I noticed in your photo archive your hub carrier is on the wrong side - it might be that its just a mock up not final assembly - but I had this
problem and having to strip it all down to swap sides - your brake assemblies will be facing backwards - like mine!
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Evrim
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| posted on 9/9/10 at 08:35 PM |
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my rear brake is disc brake type that's why when I made the hub carriers i arrange the callipers to face backwords.So the orientation of the
carrier is correct.It looks opposite of the drum brake tapes.
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Evrim
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| posted on 9/9/10 at 08:59 PM |
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are there any negative effects of removing old paints (from pre-painted tubes)by using paint removing chemicals before applying POR-15 stuff
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