jlayton
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| posted on 16/4/15 at 08:45 AM |
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Bec turbo charger
Hi
Could anyone tell me if this turbo is up to the job for my r1 bec turbo conversion. Wanted to run a t2871r but a bit dear. eBay item number
261849876190 my goal is to run 6/7 psi on std internals and get about 200/225 bhp the forge engine over winter then up boost etc for about 295/300
Thanks in advance
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tyrrell
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| posted on 16/4/15 at 12:57 PM |
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t2871r
what's the point in using a t2871r ?
that a pretty big turbo, completely unnecessary for under 10psi set up.
I ran one of these on my old 200sx at like 18-19psi
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jlayton
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| posted on 17/4/15 at 06:59 AM |
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I was thinking the t2871r as next yr I'm going to forge the internals etc and turn boost up. And it will save changing the turbo at a later
date. Indy bird on here ran a gt2860 with sone good results
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imp paul
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| posted on 17/4/15 at 11:30 AM |
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gt28r is the way spools up very fast, check out seans place big cc racing it mite give you some ideas 
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[Edited on 17/4/15 by imp paul]
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JAG
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| posted on 17/4/15 at 11:58 AM |
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Slight thread hijack - my apologies.
imp paul;
The pipes in your picture attach to the turbo' in your picture - correct?
Does that mean that the exhaust gases from the turbine by-pass valve exit into the engine bay?
Is that normal practice? I've not seen it before but I'm interested in the idea
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
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imp paul
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| posted on 17/4/15 at 12:28 PM |
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hi the two pipes in my picture , the small pipe is to a external waste gate then a screemer pipe . the large pipe is the exhaust as you can see i
modded, the turbo so this is possible removed internal gate, and fitted a petition as you can see 
[Edited on 17/4/15 by imp paul]
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PAUL FISHER
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| posted on 17/4/15 at 04:27 PM |
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Yes as imp Paul says,T28's are good for bike engine applications, my Velocity kit on my ZX10r had a T28.
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jlayton
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| posted on 4/5/15 at 07:50 AM |
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Hi does anyone know the std fuel pressure for the r1 5pw engine. As need to set my new rising rate fpr up
Kind regards
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jlayton
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| posted on 5/5/15 at 06:21 PM |
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hi
can anyone tell me where to get my water feed from for my turbo, its in a 2003 r1 and where to return it
kind regards
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PAUL FISHER
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| posted on 5/5/15 at 07:22 PM |
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Fuel pressure for a injected 5pw R1 is 42.6psi.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 5/5/15 at 07:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jlayton
hi
can anyone tell me where to get my water feed from for my turbo, its in a 2003 r1 and where to return it
kind regards
I would guess you will need to add 'T' pieces into rad hoses,get the pipe coming off the T piece to match the diameter of the turbo
coolant pipes.
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jlayton
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| posted on 9/5/15 at 07:53 AM |
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cheers for the info again, literally im just left with the water feed and return lines this weekend, then im ready to start it up for the first time
has any got a picture of where to pik up and return the water lines. or could hep me with a simply diagram.
as I say all being well it will be completed then apart from a good tune
kind regards once again
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jlayton
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| posted on 20/5/15 at 05:27 PM |
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hi cars all done and running now, first drive out will be this weekend. my question is can anyone help me out with whats an acceptable afr and whats
to much and turn off afr . car will be going to pdq very soon but I would like to get a few steady miles on it to see if it throws any surprises up at
me
thanks
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PAUL FISHER
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| posted on 20/5/15 at 09:36 PM |
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A safe level is between 12.1 and 13.1 on boost until you get it on the dyno, then they may lean it off a bit to around 13.1+ for best power.
Just to add mine zx10r was only running 5 to 6psi.
and will be dependant on intercooler size etc.
[Edited on 20/5/15 by PAUL FISHER]
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dave_424
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| posted on 20/5/15 at 09:50 PM |
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I would strongly suggest that for boosting on a stock internal engine, AFR at WOT and full boost should be in the 11's, 11.5-11.8 is a good
place to be. I believe anything in the 13's is too lean
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Spud1985
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| posted on 20/5/15 at 10:28 PM |
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can you post up a list of items you used for the turbo conversion
looking to do this to my R1 BEC but not sure on all the bits i need to install
Thanks
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jlayton
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| posted on 21/5/15 at 07:44 PM |
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well just had my first drive my afr figures are about 14.7 on tick over and about 10-10.5 when just steady round town (between 3-4k) does miss a
little bit at 2-4k to b honest. then when I give it a little bit im see'ing 12-13afr. my problem is its boosting to 8-9 psi  running a turbo
smart manual boost controller. completely stock so I no this is to high. I want to run 7psi when mapped properly.
my question is will it be ok running 8-9psi for very short burst. or will a digital boost controller bring the psi down and be a lot safer
many thanks
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dave_424
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| posted on 21/5/15 at 09:06 PM |
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You can't bring down the boost lower than your wastegate spring pressure. To run the lowest boost, run a line from your turbo compressor housing
(highest pressure and fastest response location in your system) to the wastage. Are you doing anything to retard your ignition timing? On an untuned
engine, non optimised ignition timing and AFR on boost in the 12-13 I wouldn't put it into boost. Only do it for testing when making changes and
make sure you keep an eye on things, stuff goes south very quickly.
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jlayton
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| posted on 21/5/15 at 09:27 PM |
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Running a Garrett gt2860rs so theres no where for a vacuum line on the compressor housing std ignition also. When say 5 psi of boost is seen the
engine management comes on for a brief second I believe I need 2 check valves to the map sensor ? Any help or advice is great
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dave_424
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| posted on 21/5/15 at 09:38 PM |
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Okay, well remove the boost controller and run a single line from a vacuum port to the wastage, this will give you the lowest boost possible with your
current wastage spring. I haven't done the check valve to the map sensor before, but makes sense that you don't want the sensor to see
boost. So a check valve with the arrow of flow pointing away from the map sensor would be the correct orientation. One thing it might be is that since
air isn't actually flowing into the map sensor, it might not be enough the move the check valve ball. Might be worth trying the check valve
further away from the map sensor or even a long coil of vac hose between the check valve and the map sensor, allowing more volume of air to fill which
might allow the ball in the check valve to move, or delay things so that the check valve can react quick enough
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jlayton
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| posted on 22/5/15 at 06:12 AM |
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Ok thanks again, do you think with a good tune up it will b ok as it is or do I definately need to do timing, is that just a case of getting an
ignition module for power commander ?
Thanks again
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cloudy
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| posted on 22/5/15 at 08:49 AM |
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On the MAP sensor front, a far better way than check valves that leak boost is a simple zener limiter circuit - like this (with the zener chosen as
the voltage (boost) you want to limit the ECU seeing - GSXR 1000K1 needs under 4.8V before ECU error I think so 4.7V is fine not sure on R1)
www.warnercars.com
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jlayton
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| posted on 23/5/15 at 08:26 AM |
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Rite just booked her in at pdq for friday, I spoke to a guy there yesterday who said 12/13 aft is ok at the min but he sed running 10 afr round town
is rich as, my question is if u turn the fuel reg down a little will this help. Only want to put a few steady shake down miles on her today
Thanks again
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