po79
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 06:16 PM |
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GM E-tec (Kalos) engine running lumpy
Hi all.
Its been ages since I've been on here and I know this my car is not a Kit but I am desprate and need your help please.
I have just got my Kalos 1.4ltr 8v SOHC back together today after the head gasket went I had the head skimmed and fitted new bolts and gaskets, water
pump, timing belt and thermostat.
However when I started it earlier it ran lumpy so I gave it a gentle rev and took my foot off the throttle but it just spluttered and cut out. I had a
quick look at everything but all looked fine so I started the engine again and it started but only with my foot on the throttle and it was still lumpy
and there is a tapping/knocking sound.
Can anyone give me any idea of what could possibly be wrong.
Your help will be appreciated
Poe.
[Edited on 15/6/15 by po79]
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jacko
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 06:40 PM |
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Cam belt /timing maybe ?
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po79
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 06:52 PM |
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No I don't think so.
I turned the engine over several times by hand and the timing marks lined up fine before starting.
However it does seem like a timing error, I got the hump on so shut the bonnet and walked away but was going take the cam cover off tomorrow and see
but I really don't think the timing can be out unless the belt jumped.
Could it be anything else?
Thanks for the reply,
Poe.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 07:08 PM |
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hydraulic tappets ?,could be they need a bit of time to pump up...oh and howdy neighbour 
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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ian locostzx9rc2
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 07:08 PM |
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Hydrolic tappet collapsed or tappet rocker may have come adrift ?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 07:15 PM |
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Is the engine the same as a Chevrolet Kalos? If so have you set the valve clearances ? Failing that check for air leaks around the inlet manifold,
correct firing order and it might be worth rechecking the valve timing .
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 07:48 PM |
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Check for any vacuum hoses or electrical connectors that haven't been connected.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 15/6/15 at 09:11 PM |
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I set the timming on k series once acording to the haynes manual and it did what you describe. A search on the net later and I found it was 180 deg
out.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 16/6/15 at 07:58 AM |
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Hydraulic tappets can get stuck after major overhauls they usually sort themselves out after a the engine warms up but the first thing to check is
that all the vacuum hoses and engine sensors are connected. ISTR the 8v engine has a coil pack but has old fashioned plug leads so check the firing
order , left side of the coil pack serves cylinders 1 & 4 the right side cylinders 2 & 3
Valve timing could be an issue but it won't be 180 degrees out (the engine simply would not run) a couple of teeth out is enough to make the
engine reluctant to run.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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obfripper
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| posted on 16/6/15 at 12:23 PM |
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Have you changed the oil after the h/g change?
If there is water emulsion, it can cause the tappets to not work correctly and not open the valves fully, and when it gets hot the tappets fill with
steam and stop working completely.
I take it that you have the old vauxhall 8v engine in there, which this was a common problem after a headgasket failure.
Just warm up the engine as much as you can and drain the oil, the oil will be steaming as you drain it, change the filter as well.
Dave
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po79
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| posted on 16/6/15 at 05:56 PM |
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Hey guys!
This is what I have always loved about this site loads of people willing to help and advise.
Howdy back "theconrodkid" but sadly I no longer live in Somerset I moved over to south Wales recently.
I've not had time to get to look at the car today and I've working nights for a few days now so it will have to wait a while but you have
given me some good advise to start with.
Water in the tappets would make sense I only didn't change the oil as I wanted to run the engine up first and see everything worked and then do
an oil change but as I don't know how much water has mixed with the oil I shouldn't have risked it really.
Yeah this is the old Vauxhall unit but can it really be 180 degrees out timing wise? It did cross my mind but the more I though about it the more
confused I made myself 
I always though that with the crank and cam marks lined up it could not be out as arent the injectors timed off the cam and the dissy a wasted spark
system?
Thanks again for all the replies and I'll get back asap with what I find,
Poe.
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po79
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| posted on 25/6/15 at 05:37 PM |
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Hi all,
Finally got to spend a little time on the Kalos yesterday and after changing the oil and filter the knocking/tapping was resolved however the car was
still running rough so after a bit of messing I found that removing number two HT lead made no difference to how the engine ran so I changed that
spark plug with number four and it ran the same so I took the HT lead off number four and the engine hardly ran at all so I thought maybe it could be
the number two HT lead which I then exchanged with another HT lead but the original problem was still there with the HT lead on number two connected
or not.
So the problem must be either within number two cylinder in the form of a compression leak or could the problem still be with the tappets on number
two.
When the engine is revved up the lumpyness/misfire clears and the engine runs smooth.
What do you think? is there anything I could have overlooked?
I don't have my compression tester here so I'm going to have to buy a new one in order to test the compression.
Cheers,
Poe.
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 25/6/15 at 06:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by po79
...
So the problem must be either within number two cylinder in the form of a compression leak or could the problem still be with the tappets on number
two.
When the engine is revved up the lumpyness/misfire clears and the engine runs smooth.
What do you think? is there anything I could have overlooked?
I don't have my compression tester here so I'm going to have to buy a new one in order to test the compression.
Cheers,
Poe.
I would suggest this is consistent with hydraulic tappet not filling fully @ low revs due to low oil pressure, when revs rise, oil pressure and flow
go up and then tappet fills and stays filled therefore working OK.
I am not familiar with engine, so don´t know if carburetor or injection.
If carburetor, maybe a plugged Idle Jet.
If Injection, maybe an injector not opening fully at idle?
Last, compression leaks will also give rough idle and upon revving they don´t feel that bad...
Reading my post I come to the conclusion that all has been said before, but to discard Compression or Tappets, easiest would be compression tester.
there are a few DIY compression tester threads on this forum, you may cook one off...
HTH.
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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po79
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| posted on 25/6/15 at 07:09 PM |
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Hi Angel Acevedo,
Thanks for the reply.
I have just found a push on compression tester in the shed so will try next week to get some accurate readings, shift pattern is hindering me getting
much work done on the car.
If its the tappets still not filling fully how long would the engine need to be ran in order to get them working properly, only I don't want to
run the engine for longer than necessary and cause any damage.
I might also remove the tappets on number two and clean and check them.
As I was running the engine earlier the auxillary belt snapped as if the car wasn't causing me enough problems!!!
I will post back with my next set of findings,
Cheers,
Poe.
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