DaveFJ
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posted on 31/3/08 at 07:36 AM |
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B****er! No brakes!
Well she moved under her own steam yesterday... spent about 10 minutes playing doing 3 point turns on my drive it was incredibly tmpting to take a
quick turn round the block but one of my nieghbours is a policeman so thought better of it!
Main problem I discovered.. next to no brakes! bled them with an Ezi bleed system but they are crap.... and they leak I have seepages from 2 main
unions which i can't get a spanner onto to 'tweak' and my bleed nipples still leak no matter how tight I try to make them!
admittedly the nipples were cheap jobbies so I will get myself over to Ford and pick up some 'proper' ones....
Has anyone tried one of those special brake line spanners? are they any good?
Not a lot anyone can do to help with this... Just wanted a moan!
If I can fix the leaks and get my roll cage made and fitted i am just about ready for SVA! I can't see me driving to stoneliegh though somehow
yet another year missed
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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gingerprince
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posted on 31/3/08 at 07:38 AM |
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Try a bit of PTFE on the nipples.
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DaveFJ
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posted on 31/3/08 at 07:42 AM |
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they are leaking though the center bleed hole! so i guess PTFE isn't going to make a difference!
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 31/3/08 at 07:43 AM |
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quote: Has anyone tried one of those special brake line spanners? quote:
yip, well worth buying, when you do you'll realise just how much your old spanners were flexing
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 31/3/08 at 07:51 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by DaveFJ
they are leaking though the center bleed hole! so i guess PTFE isn't going to make a difference!
In that case the seat may be damaged by corrosion; you can fix this by using a new drill bit on something gentle like a hand drill or electric screw
driver to clean the bottom chamfer of the hole like in this dazzling picture
Rescued attachment brake.JPG
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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TGR-ECOSSE
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posted on 31/3/08 at 07:57 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by gingerprince
Try a bit of PTFE on the nipples.
Can't concentrate at work now!!!!
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DaveFJ
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posted on 31/3/08 at 08:02 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Mr Whippy
quote: Originally posted by DaveFJ
they are leaking though the center bleed hole! so i guess PTFE isn't going to make a difference!
In that case the seat may be damaged by corrosion; you can fix this by using a new drill bit on something gentle like a hand drill or electric screw
driver to clean the bottom chamfer of the hole like in this dazzling picture
I thought of trying that but was worried that the chamfer angle might be wrong....
Also I have noticed that the original nipples are narrower at the chamfer ... like this:
Description
whereas the new ones i fitted are like Mr Whippy's original diagram... so i guess i am trying to use areas of the mating face that weren't
in use before! BUT... where can i find nipples like this?? went round all the local motorfactors that were open yesterday and NONE of them had any
brake nipples at all!!!
[Edited on 31-3-08 by DaveFJ]
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 31/3/08 at 09:42 AM |
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the needle should have a steeper angle than the chamfered hole it seals against. That's why you tend to get a line round the tip of the needle.
If it is trying to seal across the whole face it will struggle, hence the shallow angle of the drill is fine.Try wrapping some tape round the drill
bit and just holding the drill in your hand to clean it up, very little metal needs to be removed and a small bit of grease on the drill tip will hold
onto the metal removed.
[Edited on 31/3/08 by Mr Whippy]
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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DaveFJ
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posted on 31/3/08 at 09:46 AM |
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cheers
will try that
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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RazMan
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posted on 31/3/08 at 12:11 PM |
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One tip worth mentioning - don't rely on the Eezibleed to get all of the air out of your system. Always make the m/c go through its full stroke,
even when using the eezibleed, as air can get firmly lodged inside it.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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DaveFJ
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posted on 31/3/08 at 12:19 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by RazMan
One tip worth mentioning - don't rely on the Eezibleed to get all of the air out of your system. Always make the m/c go through its full stroke,
even when using the eezibleed, as air can get firmly lodged inside it.
last time i tried bleeding like that I pushed too far/hard and think i flipped the seals inside because the MC started to leak a quick rebuild
seems to have sorted that...
will get her back up on axle stands tonight and have another go at the bleeding thing.... If I can cure the leaks first!!
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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02GF74
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posted on 31/3/08 at 01:41 PM |
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PTFE tape!!?!?!
it may work but it is not the right way to do it.
as Mr W says, you need to look at the cone faces on the nipples and the corresponding sest to determine why you are not getting a seal.
note that after bleading, unless the nipples point downwards you will have fluid in the nipple - I use a small tissue to wick it up so that it is
easier to tell if you have a leaking nipple - presumably this is not what is happening with your nopples.
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DaveFJ
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posted on 31/3/08 at 01:58 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by 02GF74
PTFE tape!!?!?!
it may work but it is not the right way to do it.
as Mr W says, you need to look at the cone faces on the nipples and the corresponding sest to determine why you are not getting a seal.
note that after bleading, unless the nipples point downwards you will have fluid in the nipple - I use a small tissue to wick it up so that it is
easier to tell if you have a leaking nipple - presumably this is not what is happening with your nopples.
wassa nopple?? sounds rude
It's not just residual fluid in the nipple because when i press the pedal I can see it start to seep out again...
TBh the nipples are probably the easier thing to fix... the seepage from the unions will be harder because I can't get a spanner on the to
tighten properly.... me and my grand ideas about using the dual circuits of my princess callipers!!
The princess caliper is designed to have 2 hoses connected with a split system. so that is how i have set it up ! with the sierra master cylinder
supplying a T on either side of the car. The T's then supply one side of each caliper.... net result: pipes everywhere!
It seemed like a good idea at the time!
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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RazMan
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posted on 1/4/08 at 03:52 AM |
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Dave, if I understand you correctly you are splitting the brakes left/right and not front/rear? Or have I missed something?
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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DaveFJ
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posted on 1/4/08 at 08:03 AM |
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No.. my master cylinder is split 3 ways.....
so 1 rear and 2 fornt circuits. I have plit the 2 front circuits so they supply the 2 independant parts of the caliper. theory is if I loose 1 of the
front circuits both front calipers still work...
Bought myself a flare nut spanner from halfrauds (pro range) last night and it does make quite a difference when tweaking those leaks! although I
still couldn't get the access i needed so ended up stripping out half the pipe work to get at the union! one side done one to go....
applied for SVA today and asked for a date on or around 8th May.... so the clock is ticking!
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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