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Tried to get the MotaLeira started
nitram38 - 20/2/09 at 07:23 PM

I put 5 litres in the tank and tried to start her up tonight.
The fuel pump primed but no joy starting.
The engine turned over, oil pressure ok.
Been up since 3.30 am so a bit tired. I will try again Monday when I am off work. Any help appreciated!


adithorp - 20/2/09 at 07:36 PM

Side stand, neutral and clutch switches stop it turning over if its a problem with one of them.

Obvious answer is the tilt sensor. Is "Up" on the top surface and not the side?

Have you got sparks?

adrian


Steve Hignett - 20/2/09 at 07:46 PM

I thought Tilt Sensor would stop it turning over wouldn't it? Or is it really that long since I've worked on a modern BEC!?!

quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Side stand, neutral and clutch switches stop it turning over if its a problem with one of them.

Obvious answer is the tilt sensor. Is "Up" on the top surface and not the side?

Have you got sparks?

adrian


mangogrooveworkshop - 20/2/09 at 08:24 PM

Hit the fuel pump with a hammer. they gum up sitting about


nitram38 - 20/2/09 at 08:34 PM

Neutral, clutch soldered (seperately). Tilt correct way up. Pump bone dry until tonight.
I'll check the fuel rail and plugs on monday.

Should the stop switch connection be soldered or should it be an open circuit?
Mine is soldered.

[Edited on 21/2/2009 by nitram38]


adithorp - 20/2/09 at 08:59 PM

Steve, the 2 R1's I've seen with the tilt the wrong way up and my own (when I screwed up glueing it) turned over but wouldn't fire.

Martin, yes tyhe stop switch should be connected to run.

adrian


Pdlewis - 20/2/09 at 10:09 PM

are the injectors actually fireing?

I had had a simlar problem engine turned over, fuel and oil pressure but none of the injectors were giving out fuel. soak overnight in injector cleaner and everything was good


BenB - 20/2/09 at 10:19 PM

Check for sparks first (or squirt some easy start into the inlet manifold to see if it's fuelling)....

You only need compression, sparks and fuel to run (even if pretty awfully if its untuned)...

Process of elimination old bean


Steve Hignett - 21/2/09 at 02:08 AM

Hey Adi,

I put a smiley on my post for a reason - I genuinely couldn't remember, but the more I think about it (even though I am sure that you are 100% correct!) I think that the 07 R1 that I put in the SprintR and the 03 R1 in the last KC both, would not turn over if not correctly upright (or glued)!

Could be recollecting wrong of course!!!

quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Steve, the 2 R1's I've seen with the tilt the wrong way up and my own (when I screwed up glueing it) turned over but wouldn't fire.

Martin, yes tyhe stop switch should be connected to run.

adrian


adithorp - 21/2/09 at 09:49 AM

Saw the smiley Steve so no probs'. Pretty certain I'm right (BHG had spent a week turning a MenaceR1 over trying to find the problem untill some smart arse walked in ) but you've got me worried that I might be loosing my marbles now!

adrian


nitram38 - 21/2/09 at 06:54 PM

I have a few things to check, one of them being the flatshifter connection. I can hear the fuel pump run and stop when the ignition is switched on and it runs again while turning the engine over.
I can't smell any fuel from the throttle bodies.
I will check to see if fuel is getting through first and work from there. Once I am working in daylight (Monday), I'm sure it will start.


nitram38 - 23/2/09 at 06:16 PM

I checked the plugs today and they were wet with petrol plus I had a spark so I just need a new set of plugs, so good news!
The bad news is that I have a leaking petrol tank now


cloudy - 23/2/09 at 06:24 PM

Where's it leaking martin?


marmot0 - 23/2/09 at 10:13 PM

Tip for cleaning up the plugs is to run a blow torch over them


RickRick - 24/2/09 at 07:10 AM

Oooo sounds like the same problem i have, got lots of fuel, got spark, got some firing going on, just won't kick in to idle!


nitram38 - 24/2/09 at 07:37 AM

quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
Where's it leaking martin?


Not sure yet, I have been avoiding taking it out until the engine starts.
The tank is suspended in an angle frame so the welds are hidden.
I need to remove the frame to expose the welds.


DIY Si - 24/2/09 at 11:43 AM

For the spark plugs, before you go out and buy new ones, just put the old ones in the oven at about 120 degrees C for about 20 minutes. Never failed to bring mine back yet.


adithorp - 24/2/09 at 10:27 PM

Thats ^^^ a very old and reliable trick to get a car thats flooding before it fires to start. Just needs asbestos fingers as you will pick at least one up with bare hands!Also try sticking jump leads to another battery (even if yours is fine).

Mine took some trying to get it to go first time. It's fired first time every time on the button ever since. Hot, cold or after its stood for weeks it goes intantly. Stick at it, 'cos it's worth it the first time it roars!

adrian


ko_racer - 25/2/09 at 08:58 AM

I'd try starting without the powercommander on. If you haven't calibrated the Throttle in the software you can have starting probs.

One of our cars refused to start and overfuelled when it did on idle. Turned out it thought the throttle was at 2-3% when actually at 0. Problem with this is the map adds 6-7% fuel at 2% throttle on top of the auto choke.

Finally tracked it down as it worked fine when we unplugged the PowerCommander.

[Edited on 25/2/09 by ko_racer]


nitram38 - 25/2/09 at 07:29 PM

I plan on trying without the PC but I also have an "sva" map from another car to try.
I have to study for my 2391 exam for Friday, so it looks like Saturday before I try again.


nitram38 - 26/2/09 at 05:16 PM

I got a bit impatient and changed the plugs and unplugged the PCommander. Still no start.
So I tried a bit of brake cleaner and she tries to run!
So no fuel getting to the cylinders.
I can't get the fuel lines off easily so I will have to wait until either tomorrow after my exam or saturday.
It is strange that the pump runs and stops but that might be because of ignition start up sequence. Maybe a fuel airlock?


DIY Si - 26/2/09 at 09:45 PM

Do you have a return line to the tank from the fuel rail? No chance it's blocked or kinked? It is odd if the fuel pump is priming and actually getting up to pressure.

Oh, how long has the engine been sat? Could be the injectors have gunged up.


nitram38 - 26/2/09 at 09:51 PM

It has a return.
My first check will be the fuel getting to the rail and then take the injectors out.
I have been a bit busy!
Hopefully Saturday will be the day!


adithorp - 27/2/09 at 11:40 AM

Martin, check there's fuel to the rail. Then let it prime and switch off then remove (carefully) the feed pipe at the rail. There should be residual presure and you'll get a brief spray of fuel. If not then either the presure regulator is stuffed and letting all the presure back to the tank (try pinching the return pipe and briefly starting). Or the pump is running but not creating presure (you need flow and presure). If so check the pick-up before replacing pump; a blockage can cause it.

If all thats ok then your onto injectors. Thats when the original dash would help as it has the ability to test fire then individually.

adrian


nitram38 - 27/2/09 at 06:41 PM

Problem solved. See my embarased thread here