Might be a daft question but looking at the wiring diagram quite a few items have a black line coming out which has a black circle on the end with a short line through.

The plugs for these items have a black wire, am I correct to assume these are all going direct to ground albeit via the loom?

I need to extend the likes of the fuel pump wires and it would obviously be much easier to extend two wires and connect the other two straight to the chassis.

I would have just done this but when I was messing with the starter circuit on saturday just connecting the blue / white wire straight to ground did not trip the starter but connecting the blue / white to the black in the plug did? I had only made temporary connections to the battery / chassis so this is not conclusive as I may have had bad connections or missed an earth point.

Your views as always will be most gratefully received.

You are correct, the black circles are 0v/ground. Personally I would keep the loom as origianlly designed and extend all the wires rather than take them directly to chassis.

I vaguely remember there possibly being an issue with voltage differences if you have multile grounds, but then I'm no electronics expert, I know enough to get me by.

I also ran my fuel pump off a seperate relay triggered by the ecu as I didn't like the current draw through the ecu, but then I didn't use a stock fuel pump. I also ran seperate switch to the lifter pump and wired it so that the high pressure pump couldn't be run without the low pressure pump on.

I take it you know you can run a 470ohm resitor to disable the fuel level light (which will sve you extending 2 wires, the green/white and black )and also the same to replace the lean switch?

[Edited on 30/3/09 by ko_racer]

[Edited on 30/3/09 by ko_racer]

I feel your pain
I'm trying to get a 5VY to run at the moment.
Problem is all the clock wiring has been stripped out therefore I have no access to fault codes or the inbuilt diagnostics.

Although the dash does make things much easier, there is really very littlethat will stop these motors from running.

As longs as you have:

A non Immobilisor Ecu & Loom (USA ecu or track electronics one)
12v & 0v (Battery)
The sensors connected up,
Clutch Switch shorted,
Sidestand Switch Shorted,
Run swicth shorted,
IGN shorted,
Lean Sensor the correct way up or replaced with resistor

Then there's only a few things to stop the engine running:

The Crank Position sensor (Wiring easily damaged if the bike has gone down the road)
Start Inhibitor Relay (Seen a few faulty ones)
No Fuel Pressure or too much fuel (Check the feed & return are the right way round, return is the FPR end)
Bad Plugs
Make sure all sensors have 5v on the blue wire as I've seen some hacked looms with the multi plugs removed that distribute the 5v and grounds.

Thanks again Keith, I didn't know about the resistors. I'm using the bike pump in my original tank, I don't have a fuel gauge at the mo so was going to rely on the fuel light to give me an indication as I will be using it on the road as well. I'll extend all the wires and if this becomes irritating I'll fettle it later.

While were on wheres the best spot to fasten the atmospheric pressure sensor? Anywhere under the bonnet or should this be getting fresh air?

Atmos press sensor can go anywhere really, but keep it away from the inlet of the airbox. I'd say out of the air stream so get a consistent air pressure. I just tie-wrapped it to the frame (with some rubber) on my car as I was too lazy to make a proper mount.