Hi lads I am after same pointers with repackable silencers. Ive got an old R1 can which I was going to convert to a straight through repackable silencer (as moneys tight and all that) but was wondering if anyone has some pictures or comments on how the inner parts mate up, maybe a section view.

Is the perforated inner tube welded to the removable end cap or is it the other way round? And how is the loose end of this tube located into the other end cap? Does it just sit into a swaged tube or is it cut short and just sits in the packing wadding?

Also is there any recommendations for the perforated tube (stainless preferred) and wadding?

Cheers
Andy

Do a search for more help, but I did one to start you off mate:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=76640

On my R1 can the end caps are riveted on and not joined to the perf tube, but beneath these are welded caps - therefore the can is not actually repackable - it just looks like it.

i have just had one made and they fixed the perf tube to the body end and the removable end just had a short piece of tube attached to it which sleeved over the perf to hold it in place. I would say it would make it very difficult to repack if you had to slide the perf all the way down the silencer.

Depends on how you intend to pack the silencer I suppose. If you were to use mainly use glass matting around SS wire wool then you would want to be able to remove the perf. tube with one of the end caps (like mine). If you used just basalt wadding or the stuff like Santa's beard then you would want to perf. tube to stay in the can so just one end cap is removed.

Actually on mine one end cap is attached to the body and the other end cap and perf. tube are both simply push fit. So sometime my perf. tube comes out with the end cap and sometimes it stays in the can and I tap it out with a bit of cutoff tube.

[Edited on 16-6-09 by bimbleuk]

cheers bim that the info i was looking for.

Yeh the standard can isnt repackable but ive ripped all the inards out leaving a outer casing and 2 end caps which have the modified tail pipe and inlet. I think i will go with the end cap that removes the inner pipe so i can wrap the wadding around it and then force it down the outer casing.

Cheers