Hi all,

I recently installed a barnett spring conversion, new plates and lines in my r1 5PW. Car has been running fine. But while i was out earlier i could get the clutch to disengage. i ended up adjusting the clutch right up so i could get home. But now even though the clutch bites at the top of the pedal travel the clutch is still engaged when it is fully down? before this the clutch was like an on off switch!

Any ideas?

probably better asking on a bike forum really. Though I'd check that you are actually getting full clutch lever travel at the engine in relation to the pedal



[Edited on 10/9/09 by Mr Whippy]

I think i may have found the problem. The lock wire that holds the first part of clutch i now in pieces looks like its taken some of the friction material on the plate with it. Anyone know if the lockwire is needed?

maybe someone will have a spare plate so you don't need to get a whole new set?



[Edited on 10/9/09 by Mr Whippy]

In both my previous R1 cars (5JJ and 5PW) I removed the anti judder mechanism and the small friction plate (including the lockwire) and replaced it with a full size (normal) friction plate.

This has two advantages

1) Gives a stronger clutch
2) Gets rid of the lockwire which is known to kill engines if it gets dislodged and breaks (you are supposed to renew it each time you change the clutch).

So in summary, pull out the small friction, the two disc thingies and lockwire and stick a normal friction plate in there.

Cheers

Paul

Thanks for that. Will get another plate and liner ordered up. I've replaced the busted plate and removed the damaged lock wire for now.

quote:

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Originally posted by Mr Whippy
probably better asking on a bike forum really. Blah, blah, blah.....

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yeah so there Mr Whippy