
Ran the 5PW R1 last week for the first time since fitting a new clutch, oil change and baffled plate for sump.
Question...
Drove 5 miles to a pub and left car for 2hours. Fired it back up and left it to warm up (about 5min), i then got a Critical Alarm on the DigiDash
saying water temp was 105deg.
When doing the baffled plate, i removed pipes from inside the block/sump and re-fitted... have i caused a problem?
Oh, do i need to link the two outlets on the TB's as in this pic (NOT MY CAR)?

Sounds like you could do with raising the alarm temperature a bit there. The thermo unit doesn't switch the fan until around that sort of
temperature.
Those two pipes look like the breathers so no need to link them together.
looks like you have also removed the thermostat off the top of the block so hot coolent will just come out the top of the block to the radiator and looks like your coolent sensor is top right of your picture so if its still warm it might get hot pretty quick
quote:
Originally posted by jack_t
looks like you have also removed the thermostat off the top of the block so hot coolent will just come out the top of the block to the radiator and looks like your coolent sensor is top right of your picture so if its still warm it might get hot pretty quick
jack_t.... that pic isnt my car, just to show the plumbing on the TB's. My sensor is mounted remotly.
Car ran fine for 500miles last year with no temp probs, im just concerned it ran hot (if 105 is high for a bike engine) after the mods ive done!?!?!
nope both my bike engines run upto 115 c and the fans control it so its normal.
up the temp to say 110 and if the alarm goes off then try 115 and if still alarm goes off then you have a problem.
The vents are the carb 'breathers' and dont need to be joined, just dont block them up.
My 5PW cuts in at 96-97 deg and only mods to the loom are for a remote switch for certain situations