Fireblade RRS

Has anyone bought the above plates, either in Kevlar or Cork if so where from and how much...

...just in case we need 'em

I have fitted an EBC kevlar ( street racer ) clutch kit to my car, and dont have any slip problems etc. I fit alot of these kits as the price is right and they seem to be able to take a fair amount of abuse.
The original clutch in my car was ok, but I fitted a new one as a precaution, whilst the engine was out.
I have read your other clutch/ gearchange related thread and I think it is clutch related. You are getting clutch slip in 2nd and 3rd because you will be changing gear up into the upper reaches of the torque curve, rather that peak power. This is why it is less noticable flat out in 1st. Also, as you said the oil had been in during the build, there is a good chance a couple of the plates are stuck together, which is common in bike engines that have stood awhile.
Stick a new clutch kit in it, ( plates and uprated springs ), with some proper semi-synthetic bike oil, and you should have no further problems.
Most good bike shops either stock or can order EBC stuff and a Kevlar kit should cost between £60-100. If you have trouble getting one I can always mail order you one from work.
Cheers
Tim

ps: before you fit the clutch kit, soak the plates in oil overnight so you dont glaze them over first time you use them

Tim,
What would be the symptoms of stuck plates. 'Grabby or slippy'
My engine was possibly stood for 18 months without running and no oil. I'm still not happy with the way the clutch engages, very snatchy.

John

Tim,

the EBC Kevlar clutch kit - can this be split? What I mean is, we already have Barnett Heavy Duty springs fitted and only want the friction plates and possibly the spacers

The EBC kevlar "kit" is friction plates and springs but I just ditched the springs in the tool box. It came to about £60 all in and so far so good once I put the Barnett springs in, no slip at all even two up.
I got mine from Demon Tweeks cos they were the only place to have them in stock and I needed it urgently for a track day on Anglesey the following day. Most EBC stockists can order them in for you but its probably easier and cheaper just to go to EBC Direct mail order as they seem to be the cheapest way of getting them (although DT did do a price match for me)

Chris

[Edited on 14/5/04 by ChrisGamlin]

quote:

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Originally posted by spunky
Tim,
What would be the symptoms of stuck plates. 'Grabby or slippy'
My engine was possibly stood for 18 months without running and no oil. I'm still not happy with the way the clutch engages, very snatchy.

John

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if the car judders from take off it could be warped plates

It seems to judder quite violently in second gear and sometimes third (when 2 up). Rest of the gears it seems to be ok.

Hellfire, You can do what Chris says and use your Barnett springs if you want, but the kevlar kits are not available with just plates. Also, you say it judders in second and third when two up. Are you simply not reving the engine enough, and it is bogging down?
John, The SP1 has got sintered clutch plate material as standard, to help with the heat dissapation on down changing from high revs. This causes the clutch to feel jerky when pulling away from a standstill, and is why when used for racing, alot of people switch to a set of kevlar plates. But the price you pay is more frequent clutch changes and no dodgy wheelspin away from the line.
It may be worth checking your clutch adjustment as well, because as Chris says, too little movement in the pedal or lack of free play will cause it to snatch.
Hope this all helps
Cheers
Tim

Thanks Tim and Chris,
I'm happy now. Didn't know it had sintered plates.
Fitted original master cylinder and slave from an SP1 (10mm bore MS) and repositioned MS higher to give max peddle movement/fluid ratio.
Guess I have to live with it this year as I have to remove the entire bodyshell to access the clutch...
Sorry for the hijack Mr Hellfire, I've been a bit preoccupied with clutches recently.

Cheers Guys
John

I have a friend who uses a blade for stunt riding and won't use ebc plates as he says they are s**te.He swears by the barnett kevlar heavy duty plates, you can get them from biketorque for £85 mate

When the 'blipping occurs' it usually occurs between 5~6K revs. (Max torque) The engine shouldn't be labouring at that speed surely

Our three driver build and drive team doesn't help with highlighting problems as and when they occur. (or - "pointing the finger" as it is commonly known!). However, the two brothers (of our team) haven't been changing down the box (5,4,3...) without clutching, so although the finger isn't pointing, the eye's may be looking! IYSWIM.

Tony - as far as we know, no-one else has sufferred from problems using the EBC plates, but we thank you for the input. We will probably go with EBC as the price premium for the Barnett one's we think is a little excessive for our use.

We'll keep you updated! <S>

[Edited on 15-5-04 by Hellfire]

Oh dear, I think you need to give them a slap, or just hide the keys
Although it is possible to change down the box without using the clutch, you have to be stop on with matching the engine revs to you change points.
Add in the fact that the car weighs at least twice as much as the bike, the strain on the gearbox dog drives is immense. What will happen is that the corners of the gears will round off an eventually the gears will have a habit of disengaging by themselves. I fear a gearbox rebuild ( only about £400 !! ), may be due in the not too distant future.
We had a guy with a Westfield Megablade come in the shop a couple of weeks ago that had wrecked his gearbox by changing down without the clutch. He said the touring car guys did it so he thought it was ok for him!

...well, we now know it's not the clutch friction plates or rings as they were in mint condition.

We are currently removing the engine to split the engine and check which gears are missing t e e t h probably 2nd possibly 3rd.

Oh well, it has to be done and we know a few people with a few gears about, so hopefully it won't cost too much!

Anyone wanting a broken down gearbox/clutch shaft rebuild let me know and I'll post pictures to the website or archive!

Such fun!

Bugger

Sorry to hear that Hellfire, last thing you want to do is take something out that was almost first to go in!

Engine is out - preparing to be split tomorrow.

I'll take a few pictures just for my own records... and as a constant reminder what changing down without clutch looks like.

Removed sump plate to reveal the gears are fine, clutch is fine. Mr MK came to have a look and stated the engine is in pretty good order.

BUGG*R

Gearbox: Fine
Clutch: Fine

Now we are in a dilema as to what it is... maybe a plug down, but strange how it's only in certain gears... re-building rest of week - then try again with identifying cause.

Hellfire,
What a nightmare, ot helped with the weather I guess.
Just thought I'd mention one of my past experiences before you rebuild.
I've broke the gear box on two Triumph Daytonas. Thinking back it displayed very similar syptoms to yourself, ie drivable in the lower gears and the higher gears with no problem but accelerating through 4th would snatch and 'bang'.
funny thing was that when you checked the box there was no sign of any damage.
Turned out that 4th gear was cracked and was separating and jumping under load.
I'm not suggesting you have the same fault but if you have the engine out I would consider removing the gearbox and check each gear and shaft carefully, should only take 2 or 3 hours, once you get the clutch nut off...!
You will be p***ed off if you rebuild and have to go back in again.

Hope you get to the bottom of it soon.
John

early triumphs had a fault with 4th gear