more helpful though, as said above, a few more revs as the clutch engages will help.
Hi,
Have been out in my R1 indy a few times now, so getting used to it. Problem is getting away from standstill. My drive fronts onto a main road where
speed limit is 60+ so can't afford to stall for obvious reasons. Always use 1st gear and revs & clutch is adjusted correctly.
Finding it really difficult to get away without stalling, which is making the driving a pain & a bit worrying. Have read about extending the
clutch arm (where the cable attaches) & fitting a Barnet clutch but do these really make a difference to getting away from standstill? Or is there
a trick to it that I am missing?
Thanks for any help.
Jim
longer arm will give slower engagement which should help.
smashing the revs on before you lift the pedal should work too.
yes changing the lever point makes a huge difference.
i stalled my car 9 times in a row testing it when i set the clutch up, changed the leverage and pulled away first time
it was only a few mm on to off before.
it will also take some getting used to, i find it better to give it a few more revs when pulling off (few 1000) to keep it smooth and slip the clutch
ever so slightly when pulling away
wouldn't be a problem with cec
more helpful though, as said above, a few more revs as the clutch engages will help.
Either more revs to begin with and sound like a boy racer, or get used to quickly adding more throttle as you release the clutch.
I had this the first time I drove mine. I moved where the cable joins the brake pedal as close to the pivot point as was possible. This gave a longer pedal travel so I could feel the clutch. I never had a problem with it after that.
I am sure you will get used to it.
I would go for the more revs idea
That's the problem with bike engines, low torque and no flywheel to speak of.
It'll sound wrong but just dial in a few thousand rpm.
I have absolutly no problems pulling away in my bec - and that is a weedy 893cc blade lump, probably one of the lowest torque engines when it comes to
the bottom end.
So all this anti bec talk is exactly that - talk. the fact it is a bike engine is not the problem really.
And its not me, being a driving god or anything - its just set up right.
When I set up clutch pedal on mine it had only 2" of pedal travel, moved cable up nearer pivot and now have 4" of travel 
Just get your pedal ratio right and it's just as easy as a CEC, in fact i'd say the R4 is easier than other CEC's i've driven...
You should be able to quite easily pull off with no throttle at idle
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
Just get your pedal ratio right and it's just as easy as a CEC, in fact i'd say the R4 is easier than other CEC's i've driven...
You should be able to quite easily pull off with no throttle at idle
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
Just get your pedal ratio right and it's just as easy as a CEC, in fact i'd say the R4 is easier than other CEC's i've driven...
You should be able to quite easily pull off with no throttle at idle
Obviously then the two BECs I've driven need a tweek then !
I'll bear this in mind for my own build...........when I get to that point !
Its really simple to do but hard to explain!
First when you push the clutch lever on the engine there is some free play to take up. This is on the bike for a reason. Its to allow your hand to
start pulling on the clutch lever and give it some leverage advantage.
On you foot you have so much power in your leg, this freeplay can be removed so that your clutch lever rests at this point.
Then you need to work out how much travel the cable or clutch slave moves over one complete press of the clutch pedal and measure it.
Use a pair of mole grips to turn your clutch lever until it stops then measure the throw.
On a piece of paper you should be able to figure out how much the extend the lever by.
What is important is that first you have no freeplay, but don't over do it or your clutch will slip and secondly dont pull the clutch lever too
far on full pedal or you will break your clutch.
If you do what I said you will have a long but light pedal but you will be able to feel the biting point just like a normal car (cec).
My clutch slave is a wilwood pull type and mounted along the back of my engine
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[Edited on 15/6/2010 by nitram38]
Firstly thanks for all your replies, really appreciated.
Regarding the pedal ratio, is that achieved by
moving the clutch cable connection point nearer the pivot? Does that not reduce the amount of cable movement & make the clutch sharper?
Jim
At engine end you want the connection further away, pedal end closer
In my ZX9R Bec with Barnett clutch.. sweet and smooth with some genuine slip.My R1 Bec with Barnett clutch and extended clutch swing arm still quite a
job and no real slip as such. Its either low revs and VERY slow clutch release just to get crawling from standstill or higher revs and she bights
instant and makes quite a low pitch screech from the clutch and either snatches or stalls.
Interesting thing.. does anyone know why this gets worse after a while when been driving and everything is hot???
Why should the Ninja seems so much more driver friendly when both have Barnett clutches??