Got the oil cooler all plumbed in, filled up with oil and went to crank it using the starter wire and earth lead to a battery pack. The starter just spins but won't turn the engine. It's in neutral, any ideas?

sounds like you have connected the battery pack up back to front. if you did, the one way clutch will simply disengage.

nope it is definatly the right way round.

then you need to check the one way starter clutch. try removing the inspection cover from the starter cover and turn the crank backwards. In this direction, the starter should be heard turning with the engine. rotating the crank forwards should hear nothing. if you can rotate the crank in both directions and you can't hear the starter clutch turning the starter motor, then you have a one way clutch issue.

davegtst! this bloke knows his stuff he sorted my electrical problem out yesterday i done everything he said and he fixed my problem. if you try what he sugests im sure he,ll sort your problem to he,s very helpfull!

I've removed the inspection cover to find half a tooth missing on the large reduction gear that meshes with the gear on the end of the starter. Put it all back together and now it does crank the engine but i'm worried about the half broken tooth.

What year is your engine.

I was sold it as a 2002 but i'm certain it's a 2001.

i would replace that mesh gear mate i wouldent take the risk off it knocking anymore teeth off that gear as the brocken bits could end up falling inside the engine.

[Edited on 24/9/10 by chunky2772]

OK.

Engines prior to 2003 could suffer with a starter issue. Usually caused by a low battery, the engine could backfire whilst being started. This could cause serious damage to the starter gear or in the worst case break the crankcases. You must check this out. Do not try to run the engine with this tooth broken.
There is a modification that you can do to fit an anti kickback clutch without having to buy a new starter motor. Check out Big CC online. They sell a kit and so do TTS and I think SBD. All of these kits will protect the crankcase against backfire but more importantly, if you spin the car and go backwards, the starter clutch can destroy the starter. Using this kit will protect the starter as well.

[Edited on 24/9/10 by cosmick]

[Edited on 24/9/10 by cosmick]

You mean this? sprag starter

I've spent so much on this motor already another £220 is getting a bit much. Think i'll have a word with Yorkshire engines on Monday and see what they have to say about the missing tooth. According to their site they gave me a 'realistic warrenty' with this engine, i'd call a broken tooth realistic.

Yes that is the item from Big CC.

If you bought the engine from Malc then he should look after you. If this is the first time you have cranked the engine, then tell him what you have found. I would take the cover off this weekend and remove the damaged parts. If you could photograph the damage, I would be interested to see it.
Anyway, we seem to have found the problem and hopefully, it can be fixed va Malc.

[Edited on 24/9/10 by cosmick]

Strongly suggest you update to the 2003 and later factory starting system, anything else is simply a band aid on the problem.
The earlier systems will definitely self destruct the first time you spin the car.

Chet

call nova racing direct as that's who everyone buys the parts from to sell on like extreme engines/big CC.

All sorted now. The broken reduction gear was replaced but it turned out the main fault was a faulty starter sprag clutch. Malc sent both parts to me and now it cranks as it should. Can't recomend Yorkshire Engines highly enough, thanks Malc.

I just thought I would continue this post by asking if there is anyway to identify the later type starter from the early one? I tink Malc supplied me with a later starter on a 2001 but I am not sure??

Part Number for 99 starter motor is 31100-24F00 which then superseded to 24F01. 03 models onwards were fitted with 31100-24F10.
I think the part nos are written on the starter or at least the last part of the number. Hope this helps.

Thanks Cosmick, you truly are a wealth of information! I am fitting a sump baffle and wondered if you knew the main end bearing bolt torque settings?

Sorry dilley you have lost me there. Are you tightening the main bearing bolts i.e. the large dia crankcase bolts either side of the crankshaft or Big end caps inside the engine. If you are fitting a baffle in the sump, you shouldn't need to undo any big end or mainbearing bolts.

The baffle has come from extreme engines, and from what I can make of it fits under the 3 crankshaft retaining bolts that can be seen with the sump removed. I'm not keeen on removing them them to do this as I do not like to disturb things that don't need to be disturbed!

OK. Check out the thread size of the bolts and follow the chart below


6mm Initial 6NM Final 11NM
8mm 13NM 26NM
9mm 18NM 32NM
10mm 28NM 50NM

cosmick

Thanks again!

And by fitting that sump baffle my friend you will invalidate any warranty with malc, try saying the mains are rumbling and my answer would be well you loosened the mains bolts.

tony

Well, its a good job I did really as the clutch bolts were hand tight.

Ans exactly how do you think this will affect the engine?