Hi Guys,

as the font of all knowledge, I need your help..... again.

Just trying to work out the length of my two piece prop, Obviously the important bit that I'm not sure of, it where to put my centre bearing therefor the lengths of the front and rear sections.

I stuck my old prop from my pinto install and a piece of plastic pipe in (have a look at the pictures in my archive) but I'm still struggling to work out where it should go.

The diff flange and the gearbox flange and parallel with each other, but the gearbox flange sit higher and to the right hand side of the car if that helps.

The car is an MK Indy with a Sierra Diff mated (hopefully) to Triumph daytona engine.

TIA

Scott

On mine the centre bearing is bolted to the steel side of the tunnel with some metal blocks to centre it. Roughly where your right toes are in pic no 4.

Hi Scot

looking good on the engine change

If you place your centre bearing on the right upright in your tunnel you wont be far wrong, and as your engine (and diff) are fixed you have no need to worry about slider length, the slider portion is mainly used on live axled cars to allow for rear axle travel.

If you have slight (but not too acute angle)on your prop, general consensus it that it will work fine, clamp it all up and turn the rear wheels you will get a feel for the angles from looking, and pat will manage to keep you right !!!

have a blast with your new engine and welcome to the dark side

Hi,
Firstly, I'm a newbie, so don't take anything that I say as read. I am looking to much the same with my project but with a ZZR1100.

Now the propshaft was causing me some concern. How to mount, where to mount, what vibration, yahda, yahda...

My solution that I have thought up myself will be to mount the engine at a slight angle so that the propshaft, where attached to the output sprocket adapter, will be in line. Then the centre bearing will be mounted much the same as the suggestion above, thus resulting in a bend so that the prop then runs exactly longditudanally with the chassis. The only thing that I will be doing then will be attempting to change the universal joint at the centre bearing to a constant velocity joint.

Not sure how I'll be doing that just yet, or where I'll be getting a 'cv' joint from. But the thinking is that 'UJ's' have the speed up/slow down action when the lines of the shaft are through a slight bend. And by mounting the engine on a slight angle the cancelling out effect that the engine end 'UJ' would have would be done away with.

I was always told that where possible Universal joints should run as close to straight as possible. 'or else' vibration, wear, noise,etc, yahda, yahda.

Again, I'm just a newbie, but from the bits I've seen on here and a little bit of knowledge, I'm hopeing that i can learn as I go and perhaps offer some ideas.